blueovalz

These cheap fans use inductance motors (hope that is the correct term) which do not use the typical commutator that causes sparks.

. Good question. I calculated it with the longer dimensions of the bushing edges, and then added the shorter dimensions of the pin boss. You are correct in that the longer span does reduce the angle error.

This is a consideration that was brought up when Jon and I posted about the use of the 5/8" bolt. The spindle pin (to the best of my recollection) is .630" in diameter. A 5/8" bolt is .620" diameter (not .625" as one would think). This leaves .010" of clearance between the bolt shank and the strut pin boss. Depending on the dimensions of the inner sleeves for the bushings, you could easily double this amount of clearance (.010 for each bushing sleeves + .010 in the boss, and you've got potentially .020" of "slop" that must be taken into consideration (and some aftermarket bushings have even more clearance that this).This movement between the control arm and the boss must be kept in check only by the compression provided in tightening the assembly (basically crushing the inner steel sleeves of the bushings between the pin boss and the bolt head/nut). With a high-torque motor, and good sticky tires, I find this troubling for me. But also consider the alignment issue below. This .010" (X2) of "slop", if not addressed when tightening the assembly, can introduce as much as .17º of toe (either in or out), which equates to over 1/16" of toe in or out on a 25" tire. Though not significant, it will affect the feel of the car, and it must be accounted for while tightening the assembly to get it "right". The reason the bushings and pins are machined for a close tolerance from the factory is for a good reason.

I did something similar to Ernie, except that I used 1/2" and 3/4" PVC pipe. It was easy to build (just glue together, and in some places I simply pressed the pieces together) to build the frame and some of the structures used to hold the parts for painting. The only change I would make is the use 4 fans instead of the two that I used. I found that the heavier films of plastic sheeting had a film of silicone on them, so be sure this does not touch any parts being painted. The wife was happier about this than I was. No overspray anywhere. The "allergy" grade A/C filters I placed on the exhaust and intake fans worked well in cleaning the intake air, and capturing overspray in the exhaust air, but again doubling up on both would have been better (Walmart had them for $14 a piece which is insignificant compared to paint costs.

Soaking it in penetrating oil or WD-40 for a few days has shown to be effective. The ability to pull it out rather than pound it out is an advantage as well, but you'll need one of the coveted spindle pin pullers to do this (eBay or a search will help you find one). Pounding the end tends to swell that end, tightening it in the bore the more you pound on it, so you may be defeating your own efforts. Your observation that the locking pin deforms the pin is not an uncommon one, and an issue that does aggravate the removal of the spindle pin.

Who was it who said: Nothing is foolproof for a sufficiently talented fool.

I found on mine, using the yarn tufts, that the reverse flow and presssure does not move this far forward. Also, on the sides of the windshield, the air began to move toward a horizontal flow which differentiated from the flow in the middle of the hood

I'd inspect the bore thoroughly. The aluminum may, or may not, be pitted. If it is still smooth, rebuild it.

When I had a similar set-up, I found the balance to be very good without a proportioning valve.

I don't like what I see. It appears you have the same side caliper on both sides of the car. Photos 3 and 4 show the bleed valve as at the bottom of the cylinder on one photo, and at the top on the next photo. No left/right on these (unless I'm seeing this wrong)!

Is that a typo? Base on the photo, if the 10" rear wheels have 8" of backspacing, then this leaves 3" to go forward, and the photo appears to show a lot more than that (5" at least, if not more), not to mention how you get more than 6" of backspacing on any S30 suspension even with short coil-overs. BTW, your GTO looks great!!!

I actually got a bad new MC one time, so don't discount this option.

Looks great. I cannot wait to see it painted as well. Reading all of the airflow comments and information makes me wonder how this kind of set-up would fare aerodynamically. From what I've read, sealing the front is the primary task and it looks like this is being done.

What is the difference in the cam specs between the two cams?

Can't wait to hear more.

Awesome win guys! Well deserved!

Alright you guys. Come and get it!!!

I saw the original thread, but never connected the before-and-after photos. I like the subtle blend with the door and blended crease line on the top. Good job!

When I went to the 4:11 gear set, I had what appears to be the same vibration you've described. The only way I eliminated it was correcting the driveshaft angle (moved the entire differential 1" toward the driver, but that is probably not an option for you). My guess was that the increased spin rate of the driveshaft due to the lower gear ratio brought an existing vibration to a speed that I normally drive at. Previous to that change I would guess that this vibration still existed at a higher speed, one not normally maintained (80 MPH), and consequently I perceived this vibration as "new". Just my take on my experience.

Interesting design. Any shots of the rear showing the extended quarters?

I don't have any camber curves for the camber/kingpin angles that the Z has, but running in excess of 5º and sometimes up to 7º is not unheard of. I'm running the top end of that range, but this wasn't an issue because the bodywork was matched to the increased wheel base.

Playing the advocate here (no, I didn't weld it), It's easy to weld something that is sitting on a bench where it can be reached. I wonder if this was done, on the car, upside-down, barely visible, and with no movement of the stick, AND it was rusted with oil. I was stuck in that emergency situation one time needing to do a repair like this to stay on the road, and when I think about the gruesome weld I had...

Based upon a 20" distance from the top strut mounting point to the center of the ball joint, you'll get about .36º of change for each 1/8" of change. You'll never get too much with washers. The disadvantage would be tire/fender contact in a turn if excessive, and increased steering effort, but that is a small one compared to the improved camber change in the curves/corners.

. Interesting. Is this spacer pressed into the strut tube? If so, how is it removed ("pressed" implies it will not fall out when the tube is turned upside-down).

You can use the same insert that would be used in a 240 tube. That insert part (specifically lenth of the body) will be predicated by any changes you want to effect in ride height.