blueovalz

A tool that impressed me was my Sawzall. I have cut 3/8" angle easily.

Directly above each stud (in the interior of the car) there should be a rubber plug that if removed, will allow access to the stud you are writing about. A large hex socket can then be used to unscrew this stud (which is in reality a bolt) and pull it out from the top (through the subframe). If you are removing the upper insulator, I think you'll see some unexpected issues. If I am correct, the steel sleeve inside the mustache bar bushing must be ground shorter in order for the bar to be raised. For this reason, simply removing the isolation washer without any other action may not allow you to raise the bar any significant amount. Also, if this is the case then you'll not want the bar to be too close to the metal subframe least you cause it to make contact every time you put any torque down to the pavement.

When my car was in Kit Car magazine, they coined the term Blueoval Z (due to the Ford engine I'm sure ) as the article title. It has been called that ever since.

Good job taking a so-so piece that fit poorly and making a gem out of it.

Fascinating material and answers. Thanks!

How would one (and pointers to any literature is appreciated) tie the throttle position sensors (electrically combine the differing resistance mapping) on staged throttle bodies if one was only using ignition and throttle position for managing a multiple TB setup?. Has this been done before?

My understanding of the fade issue with drums is that the open side of the drum expands more than the closed side of the drum as it gets hot. As a result, the shoes no longer make contact across the full width of the drum.

Nice work! I'm kinda partial the the ol' Daytona Coupe. This spring I should be in the middle of swapping the 289 for a 383 (351W stroker)

I've been conteplating this ITB system as well. My question to you is that if you're going to run an MAF, then wouldn't it be easier to simply fabricate a manifold and plenum without the ITBs, and have a large single thottle body behind the MAF on the plenum? If you're running an MAF in addition to the ITBs, wouldn't that be unnecessary complexity being you've got to fabricate a manifold and plenum anyway (I'm new to the EFI stuff)?

Factory is 3º, so I would at least get it back to that if not more. I run about 7º.

Can't wait to hear how it works out.

I've found (90% of the time) that the folks selling this stuff have no familiarity with the product other than a brochure sitting in front of them. Some of them use competitor’s brochures. My guess is these springs are targeting the "slammed" crowd that wants the car as low as it can go, regardless of ride quality, or performance loss, with a one size fits all mentality.

How does he (or you) like the EFI set-up used in the photos?

How much weight are you adding to the front when you include an intercooler ahead of the radiator, the turbo, and the heavier RB engine?

That the same thing the guys at the track said :lmao: :lmao:

Could you weld a very small "stop" on the axle shaft to limit CV inner race travel toward center of the axle, and then simply peen the splines on the outside of the inner race once the inner race is set in place? Nissan only peens the outside on their ZXT shafts, so it should work here as well. This way, the inner race can be pressed off later if desired.

There is a lot of force on this area of the hub, and having two bolts threaded into the spindle pin boss is scary at best. A 1/2" bolt is smaller than the ID of the ES bushing sleeves by quite a margin (if I understand your intent). You'd be much better off using a long 5/8" grade 8 bolt run all the way through than what you're talking about. It would be a bit smaller than the 16mm spindle pin (.620 vs .631... I know, a 5/8" bolt should be .625" but actual shank diameter will be close to .620), but once the ES bushing sleeves are clamped in place with the bolt, they MAY be fine. If I were you, and I'm not, I'd just go buy two new spindle pins and call it a day.

When this string first started, I thought...well, I won't say, but jeez Tim, I'd love to be driving that thing around anytime, anywhere. Good call and good job! Looking a the photos again, the reflection of the power pole in the last photo looks like a sharp stub that stuck in the roof and wrinkled the sheet metal

Of all that we know about automotive science, the tires still seem like a "black art" (no pun intended).

I'm kinda lost. What is it that you're doing, and asking?

Since it sounds like you'd be cutting out the old scoop after the new is laid up, I'd do the following. Cut the original scoop off, but in such a way that the angles and shape of the original scoop can be extended downward enough to bond the old scoop in a higher position than it currently is. If the sides have some draft or angle to them, then the base will be wider than it currently is, and will be wider the further up you set the original scoop

This alternate seal Zcarnut shows does work. I used it during the last bearing change before changing to the 930 joints.

This is where it gets a little iffy for me. The mustache bar is spring steel, and it will flex fore and aft, but will it flex up and down, or twist on a fore/aft axis? As tall as the bar is (at least 2" or more?), I'd say that with solid mounts up front you'd be safe with solid bushings in back. I do not see where there would be any fore/aft forces on the mustache bar, especially with the front mount solidly in place. My whole rear mount is only 1/4" aluminum (but it is serveral inches tall), and it's lasted 15 years.

I am blessed. Not a single snide remark about not knowing what a "hoodie" was. You guys......dang it, you're just such a neat bunch....sniff, sniff...of guys. I've got to go now.

My understanding of this issued is you'll need enough exhaust tube length to prevent the outside ambient air from getting to the hot exhaust valve during reversion of the exhaust gas at the begining of the intake stroke. Depending on the cam profile, a certain amount of exhaust gas, at a certain RPM range, will be drawn backward from the exhaust port (or tube) toward the valve. What you don't want is a tube so short that the ambient air is drawn far enough into the exhaust that this ambient air hits the very hot exhaust valve. I think it is generally agreed that when you include the length of the exhaust port itself, the header tube only needs to be a few inches in length to effectively prevent this from happening as the engine is running. I believe the more radical the cam is, the greater risk of this happening with very short open tubes.