blueovalz

It was truck bed liner. The albedo (for lack of a better term) can be changed, depending upon the how "wet" the material is applied. I used a product AutoZone sells (about $8 per spraycan, and one can bareless covers a dash) that is very durable when it hardens. Spraying it on "dry" provides a very low reflectance, but also makes the surface so rough that it makes it hard to clean (pulls lint out of any cloth used to wipe it down). A "wetter" application will provide more sheen, which is because it's smoother, and also allows easier cleaning. Flat black paint works well for this appicaton too, but it scratches more easily and will kick up a shine if coated with products like Armorall.

:icon52: :icon52: I'll bet a quick proof-reading would gain more of a response, but I'll try to tackle this. Does "the ends are bent," refer to the spindle pins? If so, did you hammer them out, or pull them out. My guess is hammer, as this will usually mushroom the end, and bend it over as well. "The rear stut doesn go in fu#*," sorry, no idea what the problem is with this description. Making your own set is time consuming and not necessary. IF, the pin is the problem, new pins can be purchased (MSA has them).

Looks like an easy fit. Keep the photos coming. BTW, which intake are you using. I've got a Victor Jr, which is a fairly high intake, and I'm thinking that as low as this 351W intake is, the total height difference between my 289 and the 351W will be negligible (as it appears in the photos).

I'm sure there are many (myself included as I'm contemplating a stroked 351W to replace the 289) who would help post these pictures, including me. Are they digital?

Very nice! Keep the updates coming!

I think Darius' new project uses a Lexan hatch window. My hatch is fiberglass, and the glass is Lexan (but I made the window smaller than the OEM size). Regardless, I am guessing that the OEM window is between 20-25lbs, and the 1/8" Lexan that I used is no more than 5 lbs. This thickness conforms fairly well with the compound curves in the hatch. The issue then is how do I place a thin material into a grommet meant for 1/4" material (Mine is pop riveted into the fiberglass frame to make it flush with the hatch surface. I think ScottieGNZ did this with the rubber grommet, but I may be wrong on that.

I'll measure mine, but the original set of CVs I was going to use were 944 (Type 4). They were almost a perfect fit in the 280ZXT compantion flange. This adaption would require a light turning on the lathe of the ZXT companion flange, and then drilling new bolt holes. Unfortunately I tossed them as I never thought I'd have a need for them. Attached is a link for some Porsche CV info I collected when making my decision on CVs. http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_to/CVJoints_Axles/cv_joints_101.htm

One last thing to consider is the ever present squat the Z has. Any launches (or when exiting a turn) on an already lowered rear suspension will increase the angle (on the outside wheel) at a point in time when maximum torque is being applied to the joints.

I agree. I've run a 1 1/8" bar up front, and on the heavier 280 (full interior as well), it worked fine, but on my 240, I went to the 1", which works very well on it (running 235F/265R springs). 1/8" difference is quite a bit in regards to a bar, and 1/4 will be a huge change.

Some of this will depend on your spring rate, and sway bar set-up. On my Z, if I jack up the entire rear (level, but both tires are off the ground), I get about 5" of droop. The Axle length will be about 13" as measured from the CV to CV centerline spacing (just a close approximation here based upon my set-up). This equates to a 21º angle. In practice though, I will rarely see anything over 5º with the car on the ground (although, I have had the rear off the ground while driving). Again, it depends upon set-up, and what you're doing with the car.

An important dimension in this part is the ID of the unit as it has to slip over the input shaft housing tube. So, it has to be at least as large as the OD of the housing tube.

Dang Larry (it is Larry, right?)!. That's impressive!

My 280 had almost identical BS measurements front to rear. It was about 1/8" difference between the two, but this allowed about a pinky's width between the tire, and the OEM springs (4.5"). I would assume, that with the same coil-over assembly front to rear, the difference (or lack of) would be the same as well.

Nice presentation, AND it looks great as well. Good job!

Yes, but it was the NOS parts. The current parts sold by Nissan are not as good a quality as the original joints were.

A 1" is large by most stantards in regards to caliper piston bores. What is the piston diameter(s) on these calipers? I cannot imagine them being larger than 1 3/4" each, which works fine with 15/16" (2 piston floating or 4 piston non-floating). Going too large will push more fluid, no doubt, but the mechanical/hydraulic leverage will be diminished as a result. If the pistons are smaller than mentioned above, then I'd definitly rethink the large bore MC and find out what the total piston area is (one side only for non-floaters) and use this as a reference.

The '87 will have the R200 in it, and it should be plenty tough for a moderately modified SBF. I've had a well modified 302 in my Z (but its lighter), with the same rear (R200) for over 15 years (raced at first and then street later). And the half-shafts on your ZX will be tough enough as well (these cv joints are used in updated R200 halfshaft modifications for the earlier Zs). Some of our guys have had luck with these rearends up beyond the 500 ft/lb range. I recommend leaving the rearend alone for now.

Sorry to read about your Z troubles Pete. Keep us informed on how (and why) it goes.

The cost/benefit ratio is questionable. The CV joint by themselves are about $80+/joint. The axle shafts were very reasonable (about $170 for both) and the machine work on the adapters could have been cheaper (I piece-mealed the adapters to ensure the first run would work, which made the maching price a bit more expensive). These assemblies were not a "must have" item, but more of a "can I do this?" item (much like the rear toe-adjuster from last year). This particular set is made with a salvage 930 axle set ($350 for used but decent CVs and Boots), about $400 in machine work, and about $110 (used) for axles, and another $20 for bolts. Advantages: 1) These joints are used a lot in small car racing and can be purchased easily. The inner and outer joint are the same part, as well as the boots and axles. The Nissian stuff is nearly impossible to find for the ZXT, and I suspect this will be the case for the Z31/Z32 in the future as well. 2) They are nearly indestructable (which negates point 1 above) and should never need to be replaced. These joints take a 25º offset (50º swing) without any problem. I'm playing with an idea of a 400 cid motor, and figure the joints may need to be beefed up a bit. 3) With the adapters made for the Z (any Z), these assemblies will fit the 240 and the 280 companion flanges (so if I should ever use a 280 axle, these will work just as well) Disadvantages: 1) They are a few pounds heavier than the Nissian shafts 2) If something breaks in back, it will be an axle or a differential instead of the shafts

Lot more room under the hood than I imagined. Great project!

These arguments are valid ones indeed (driveshaft arguments). Even with the cage, the chassis still flexes, so theres no way I'll eleminate the joints. Even with the differential moved 1" over, it will not be perfectly aligned but it will be a lot better than it is now (and besides, the vertical plane is not perfect either). Combining the vertical and horizontal shifts, I'm well into the 6º shift, and I'm not comfortable with that.

The engine and mechanical stuff (ha ha, "stuff", get it?) :bonk:

Yes, this is the home of HybridZ, but I would like to see more photos later on as the project gets completed. I've more more questions than time, but more photos would help.

Finally, after talking and thinking about this for 10 years I finally reached another personal milestone. The Porsche 930 CV jointed halfshafts are finished (yeah, I know, it's like killing a mosquito with a 5 lb sledge, but I just HAD to try it). When I test install these, I'm going to move the differential toward the drivers side by about 1" to line up the driveshaft U-joints. I think this is where my vibration is as nothing else has been found to cause it (it's about 5º off from straight back and have always wanted to line this plane up but the halfshaft lengths prevented me from doing it).

A longer spring will require the seat to be lower providing all other things are equal (ride height, corner weight, spring rate, etc). The HP should be fine with these rates, but I wouldn't go any higher than the 200 you've commited to use.