blueovalz

Okay. The copper "bushing" is in reality a copper washer, and from my understanding and experience is not necessary for proper preloads on the assembly. I've yet to hear an explanation as to why some assemblies have it and others do not.

And to add a little more to what Johnc said (with what little drag racing I've done); I would suggest lighter matched springs in front with what's in back. This will return the neutral nature of the chassis as will as let the front come up (obviously the dampeners will also influence this) in conjunction with the rear squat. In theory, sway-bars of appropriate size could compensate (for the most part) for the weaker springs in regards to your street driving needs, and still not affect the straight-line needs of the chassis being both arms will move in unison when the launch is made. But in the real world, configuration of bar mounting, bushing design, etc, all change this up a little bit.

I would not leave the aerosol primer on the car. I've never seen it adhere as well as purpose made primers/sealers. I'll bet if you go over it with some sandpaper (use a fairly large grit, like 80 or 120) and sand on it, it will try to separate from the steel instead of sand off cleanly. I simply took some solvent (e.g. lacquer thinner) and wiped the aerosol primer off where I had to use some one time (that alone should tell you something about it's durability and adherence). Ernie (RacerX) will be the subject matter expert here.

What you're thinking of is the large, long, steel spacer (it's more a tube) that fits between the bearings to keep the inner races on par with the outer races when everything is buttoned up.

Another happy ending!

No pictures available for ImageStation, but copy and paste (from the properties) in the URL address does work.

Here in Arkansas, two kids racing (at least one had NOS) hit a motocycle rider (may have killed him). First response by the legislation was to ban NOS in any CAR instead of doing the right thing and nailing the DRIVER for HE did. :banghead:

I believe the booster will be too large a diameter (someone will correct me if I'm wrong) and the MC will require a small change in the rod length coming out of the booster. With the 240, I believe the booster will interfere with the clutch MC even if you go too large. I have a larger booster on mine, which is extremely close to the clutch MC (had to grind a little on the MC), and I believe it is a 280Z booster. There's not much "bolt on" stuff on this site, so get ready to cut, file, weld, and modify!!!

Balancing (IMHO) is less an issue as driveshaft alignment if you move the assembly by 2". Moving it over 1" should just about line up the driveshaft perfectly, so moving it over another inch would put you back into the same area of misalignment you would have had had the engine been centered between the frame rails (the differential pinion gear is offset toward the passenger side by about 1"). One inch is on the edge of the accepted window for U-joint reliability and vibration with these short driveshafts. I'd personally shoot for the 1"-1.5" shift instead of the full 2" shift.

uug! And as it was 40 years ago, they will introduce it 2 years after the Mustang. Now, If they could do the same thing Ford has done for the new Mustang, I'd have to take a good look, but this looks like a Taurus greenhouse that fell onto a Panoz.

Is the adapter plate on the splined side of the companion flange, or the shaft side of the companion flange? It appears to be on the splined side, which I find hard to believe I'm seeing this photo correctly. Edit, oops, I see it better now. Disregard! These adapters look very much like the ones I've had machined for the 930 joints. Can you show photos of the adapters themselves? My main question is what was required in terms of clearance for the nuts (the ones used to hold the companion flange onto the adapter) and the amount of material left after relief cuts for the nuts were made. Did you use studs instead of bolts?

I've run into the same problem. Even worse, no matter where I went to exchange my axles for rebuilt ones, their catalogs only list a single part number (no differentiation for left and right sides). Now we all know the two axles are different in length, but this fact is not reflected in their part numbers. I do not have anybody in town that can rebuild my shafts, so I ordered the VB boots (which have the steel band around the boot) and carefully rounded the edges of this band around the CV housing. It is not pretty, and you've got to be patient and take care in doing this, but it did work.

This topic is my main disappointment when I went with the DOT 17 X 11 wheels and 315 tires. 60lbs per corner compared to about 25lbs with the racing set-up.

First off, thank you for explaining your situation very well. Many times we get "I have a noise" and that's the extent of information given. As for what I know about stub axles, it includes this. All the threaded parts of the Z stubs had the same threaded diameter. Splines will differ slightly, but the threaded portion is the same on all the Z stubs. To get away from the staked nut, many of us use the ZX nuts (which again, are the same diameter) which are not nylock, but instead all metal locking flange-nuts. Can I assume that your new stub has no provision for staking (I can't imagine that it wouldn't, but thought I'd throw that out)? My only guess as to the scraping noise could be two things. 1) if the scraping noise from the drum rubbing the backing plate did not exist prior to the swap, then I could only assume that the new axle is bent in that the wheel flange that the drum fits on is not true. 2) if you know the axle is true, then perhaps the grease seal dust guard is rubbing and needs a little more clearance (perhaps an additional washer between the companion flange and the bearing where the copper washer is)

I'd also check on the size of the accelerator nozzle. I've had set-ups that required a 40 size nozzle, but then others that worked fine with a 25. Right now I run a 32. It sounds to me like you could experiment with a large nozzle.

I've gained insight and admiration for the members on the site that have submitted thought provoking commentary to the subject matter. At the same time, I've had my blood pressure rise to above safe conditions reading some of these same comments as well. DR_HUNT put it perfectly. I value my personal friendships (the HybridZ group is included in this category) too highly to allow myself to become embroiled in these strings and could live very well (and long) without seeing a single thread about this subject matter ever again. Every form of media is inundated with viewpoints that cover the entire spectrum of though on these two subjects, and I feel the HybridZ site is not the location to rehash what I heard 10 minutes ago on the television. Once again, the administrators of this forum are demonstrating their great reputation for properly managing this site.

I agree. An improved vacuum signal can be had by leaving the transmission in gear as you apply the brakes (engine RPMs will be above idle for the most part with the throttle plates closed). Vacuum canisters can help as well (they won't increase the vacuum signal, but they will stretch it out longer prior to depletion). I believe there are electric vacuum pumps on the market as well.

I wasn't going to "ditto" Mike, but I will anyway. I've also used 8" wheels (16" diameter) on a stock bodied and sprung Z. I had 1/2" clearance between the springs and the fenders. I was using 245/25ZR16 tires at the time, and the BS was 4.5". No photos though, but I never had any rub on either side of the tire. I did have a slight interference problem later on in the game when I added a dam that followed the OEM wheel arch down to the bottom of the dam. At full lock the tires would just barely rub the very bottom of this wheel opening extension in front.

Road race seat. The design made my body (slipping into the seat) feel like a hand sliding into a glove.

I (heart) my Ultrashield. I was one with the car when I used them, but I've never used the Kirkey seats. They appear to be very similar. Being my ars is softer now than it ever has been, I needed something more forgiving and went to the Forza now that I see the street more often.

I (heart) my Ultrashield. I was one with the car when I used them, but I've never used the Kirkey seats. They appear to be very similar.

Exactly! If it's not from the port in the main body (not sure where that should be but I thought it was a venturi) then the sound of air outside the main body would be trouble. I did have a Holley 950 cfm 3 barrel on my 302 that never opened the secondary (gee, I wonder why!)

Look at early '70s Vette lights as well if you're looking at round ones. Similar to the Camaro, but a little different.

Yeah, I wondered that too. My BS is 5.00" and if I went 3/4" further inboard, even with my coilovers, I'd be rubbing the springs.

Hard to help when we're not there. But, when you open the primaries, and then manually push up on the secondary diaphram rod, do you hear air being pushed out into the throttle bores (by pushing the diaphram up)? This at least tells you the path from the diaphram to your vacuum signal is intact (perhaps it got plugged up some how during the long sit). I cannot believe the spring is the problem here.