blueovalz

Too bad the search didn't come up with anything. This topic has been covered many times. Recommendations vary from higher rates in back, to higher rates instead up front, and rates from the mid 300s down to the mid 200s. I used (and still do) 265 in back and 235 in front.

I Like, but I've always liked the "old school" 5 spoke look (similar to the Torque-thrust used in the '60s)

Correct. It was an IRS when I looked under the back end. It (motor) feels pretty good, finally got the jetting and timing down. I did have him initially, but the faster we went, the less acceleration advantage I had on him. By the time we quit pulling (100+), the gap was unchanging (which makes sense being drag and HP play more prominently at that speed than weight and HP. Hopefully (now that it's cooled down a little here - but it is hitting a all time high today of 90º F) I'll get it on the dyno soon.

I can't imagine the aftermarket "rebuilds" using anything stronger than what you could buy to rebuild your halfshafts yourself (and I believe all the U-jointed halfshafts are the same part). I'd look at the cost comparison between rebuilt vs rebuilding. I'd also go a step further and look at the cost of upgrading the halfshafts (to the popular CV conversions posted many times) in comparison to your current plans. It's highly likely that once you've made "hybrid" status, the U-joints halfshafts will have a short life.

How did he say it in the movie "Water Boy"?...."You can do it"!! ....Please! Seriously, this sounds like a great project and one that I'm sure many would be interested in.

I totally understand. I had the Flowmaster "drone" right at highway speed as well. And I endured this for months, but enough was enough, and I ended up adding a glasspack (resonator) to it to shift this drone lower and out of the cruising speed rpm. I guess my age is showing when I find the Flowmasters to be too much of a good thing.

Coming up behind a Mustang Cobra yesterday on the highway when I noticed his license plate (LS1KILR) and thought I'd give him an opportunity at me...and he took it. From a 40 mph roll, I had him up until (more at first, but, that faster pull I had at the beginning was slowly leveling out to a dead even run with him) we hit the triple digit area at which point I noticed that we were dead even on acceleration (but he was still behind me) and we both decided it was time to quit. We pulled over at the next available exit and I had a view of his running gear. 2004 Cobra with overdriven supercharger putting 15 lbs boost into the 4-cam motor, 4:11 gears, and a claimed 455 lb/ft and 480 hp. It was interesting in that both motors are basically the same displacement (my 289 vs his 4.6L), and rear gearing was identical. In the end it was his blower vs my lesser mass.

I like the clean treatment , which (IMHO) is not "Foose'd". At first I was afraid to look, as "Foose'd" is (IMHO) not something I'm very enthusiastic about when I see it (a bit gaudy for me).

Yep. My 280ZXT shafts have about 1/2" of compressibility left in them as installed on the BlueovalZ (using the ZXT companion flanges). Being the nub (spring housing) on the end of the shafts are longer than that, you will not be able to compress the shaft in order to slip it onto the companion flange (but I am puzzeled in that I thought these adapters/companion flanges were made to be shorter than the ZXT companion flanges, and thus allow some extra room for the axle to move in and out).

I had two Duralites that developed cracks on the wheel shells (where the bolts were) after only 6 months of street use, but they lasted years on the track.

Just an opinion - My solid roller SBF is geared at 4:11 and it doesn't begin a good pull until the 3500-4000 range. But with the light weight of the Z, I have no problem with the lack of low-rpm torque even at 2K. Highway RPM with a road-track geared 5-speed transmission (5th gear is .80) is 3K at 70 MPH. I wouldn't want it to be geared any lower.

Would hotter air from the IC (because some air flow is bypassing it over the top of the IC) offset the extra air going to cool the radiator? In other words, would sealing off the IC make the radiator warmer, but at the same time, let the cooler intake charge make up for it?

In all my dealings with the aftermarket community in regards to these half-shafts, I found one thing clear and true. They only offer one part number (they do not differentiate between left and right sides), which means: 1) You'll only get one side for both pieces, or 2) you may get either a left, or right, or if your luck, both. With the special carrier I've got, I cannot use the bulk rebuilder's axles. But then again, after the issue of a single part number, I felt I couldn't anyway. This, plus my "build it if I can" mentality has led me to my Porsche 930 axle assembly build-up. Even though the 280 ZXT axles I have are still good (same set I've used since the early '90s with no failure), I was hoping to prepare a rebuilt set to put aside for future spares, but until I find a rebuilder that will rebuild the set I send them, and return the same set, I'll go another route.

My method was very close with VRJoe's method. I did the "sectional approach" on the first side. When I went around and did the other side, I chose to weld it all at one time. I did that after I realized that none of gap spread apart as I cut it, and that no warping was taking place as I welded it (on the first side that I did). I also left a very shallow lip (welding bead) as well to allow a good weld. If you grind it flush with the surrounding surface, then you may weaken the weld. Then the usual bodywork after that. The biggest PITA was the OEM lead filler used at the bottom and top of the A pillar and C pillar. This will interfer with the welding process, so it must be cleaned out (which I did by cranking up the amperage of the welder and melting it out from around the weld area) Windows must be up during rain and washing (even a little crack can let water in), but it does clean up the car a lot!

I suppose we can rule out any improper brake line bleeding?

A new low has been reached, but still can't quit laughing!!!!!

SSflyer's idea is a good one. I used this same method on my treads as well. I wanted to avoid the die because of the removal of material, so I tried the bisected nut first, and it work great. But these (your) threads are mucked up further down the stub than mine were.

If I remember correctly, you'll only gain about 1/2" of movement by slotting the holes at the top of the tower (before some kind of interference - it's pretty tight inside the upper part of the tower), which I think will be just short (about 1.4º movement toward negative) of your goal. Lowering your car will help push the camber in the direction you want as well.

My red 240SX is in bad need of a visual improvement that says it means business. Hmmmmm...

No, what will happen is that she will claim she felt "threatened" and the police will claim they operated within the rules and everybody will go home happy.

I can't address the part itself (looks a little too artsie-fartsie for my tastes) but I can say that I personally did not like the decreased distance between me and the steering wheel when I added a quick-release hub on my Z. I ended up cutting the column and removing about 2", and then welding it all back together after I welded the hub on the end.

All the parts worked out very well together. Great look!

As I said, I'd like to see someone go where no one has gone before, but the 5.0 is about as efficient (in terms of weight, size, and power) as you can get. The 351W is really the same motor except a higher deck height and width (what...1 1/2" at most?). I like the 4.6L on paper, but in the real world, the older 5.0 or even an LS1 is where I'd focus my attention.

The engine will fit between the towers (per a string quite a while back), but the issue of the steering arm/exhaust manifold clearance (which can be addressed) was not determined. I'd like to see if this will work as we've had several "nibbles" but no one as yet to take the bait and actually do it.

Once again I've been enlightened!