blueovalz

I considered it at one time, but the front bushing receiver is integrated into the unibody, making it a great deal of work to raise, whereas the rear would be vastly simpler in that the uprights could simply be shortened.

The main reason for the large single plate that holds the sway bar, differential, and rear bushings of the control arms was I wanted a rigid means of mounting the three with negligible play or movement under the stresses of racing, and to provide an alternate means of adjusting the effects of the sway bar by moving the body mounting points of the bar, inboard toward the center of the plate to "soften" the bars effectiveness. In particular was the differential. Being I made the front mount solid, I had no choice to be make the rear mount compatible with the front, which meant it had to be solid as well (there is some debate about this requirement). But this plate is a separate piece, and issue, in regards to the toe-in adjuster. Another reason for the plate was the convenience in its fabrication due to everything lining up in back. It just so happens that the rear plate happens to be flush with a properly mounted differential (R200 in my case) mounting surface, plus in alignment with the OEM uprights and where the OEM transverse link attaches. For me, it was a no-brainer. Later (much later) I was finally motivated by previous strings on this issue, and thus I fabricated the toe-in adjuster. The plate made this more convenient being it was flat and continuous all the way across, but just a Jeromio has done, a welded plate across the OEM uprights will serve the same purpose. Now with the R230, provisions must be made for the thicker cover plate, which I am looking into at this time to help answer your other questions. There are photos at my hosting site that show the plate, and the adjuster as separate pieces. Also, I've not got the capability (equipment) to weld aluminum, so I simply jigged up all the pieces, and then took it to a sheet metal shop and had them weld it up for me. The aluminum is lighter and draws more heat away from the differential, which was another reason I liked about doing this.

When using the blasting method of cutting tempered glass, does the heat generated by such (at the edge of the tape) become an issue? The reason I ask is I am under the impression that a large heat gradiet can cause the tempered glass to pop as well.

This adjuster does not replace the mustache bar. Back when this was a track car I fabricated a plate (no adjuster had been made back then) to solidly mount the parts in the rear of the car, but the toe-in adjuster (a separate part only recently fabricated) can be adapted to the OEM uprights as well (as Jeromio is doing). The adjuster is simply a modified transverse link that can be shortened or lengthened (on either side or both sides) only. so all bushings can remain in place. The turnbuckle is not even required, but makes the adjustments almost vernier in nature which helps a lot in getting those fine adjustments made.

That diagonal measurement is interesting in that 1" difference is quite a bit!. I imagine the wheel positioning within the wheel arch is quite a bit off as well? The widening of the arched cut-out in the uprights is why I used an additional bolt on each side to insure the adjustable part would still be firmly held in place (3 bolts on each side instead of the OEM 2 bolts on each side). I knew it was going to be thin on one side of the slotted holes. This is also why I fabricated back-up plates to add more material with which to "grip" the uprights.

I don't know what the OEM jet size is for this carb, but 55 sounds too small. Just off hand, I'd say it would need at least a 61 or larger. Heck, I think I ran 55 or 56 on my 390. A local speed shop should be able to help you out on this.

I'm not seeing a link or photo with the original post, which everybody else is seeing but me? EDIT: Now the link shows up, but on the computer I'm using at work.

I don't believe there is any performance difference between any of the years of the S30 in regards to the brakes. Generally, any upgrade that includes larger than OEM caliper pistons will require a larger MC to keep the ratios correct at the pedal. An aftermarket proportioning valve is recommended (IMHO) due to differences in the effects of drum verses caliper brakes using the same fluid pressures. I did remove any OEM valving first before installing the adjustable valve.

Aside from that, what's the odds of having 3 HybridZ'ers in this state? We must be making progress

No humility what-so-ever. Give a guy a big garage, and it all goes to his head

Welcome aboard.

I believe most (if not all) dual remote filter setups place the filtering in parallel to each other, which would actually reduce any loss of flow due to filter restrictions, which I see as a good thing.

Perhaps this misguided soul can explain why spending the money to do this will be more effective than the already implemented gas tax. Does not fuel consumption (purchases) reflect number of miles driven (for the most part)? At least the old system rewards conservation and efficiency whereas this proposal puts the H2 on equal footing with a hybrid (non-Z) in taxes.

Amusing guys, very amusing

Good project Mike. Could a steel sleeve be used in the rod end if you went one size larger? Also, any research into a thin (e.g. 1/2" or so of rubber isolation to reduce the metal to metal harshness for those of us considering this part for the street? I suppose a 1/4" rubber sheet could be used (just off the top of my head). In regards to the 16 gage steel sheet; sounds too thin, but I overbuild everything I do. Any photos of what you've come up with yet? BTW, I like the bolt-in idea. Once welded, that's it!

Yeah, this was the exact same stuff I used. But I'm always looking for a better material (something that is a little more rigid and durable than this type of foam, but still resistant to solvents, and is still easy to sand. I have used the rigid foam, covered with wide masking tape to protect against the resin, for large flat pieces (as well as sheet aluminum).

No, but it certainly held up well under the insults of the resin. I'd like to know myself what type of foam, and it's source, was used.

Great pictures. I wrestled with the idea of additional material to keep all parts aligned (with the bolts loose) with all the other parts as well. I finally settled on an angled piece with a single captured nut that allowed a bolt, oriented 90º to the other six bolts, to keep everything lined up while adjustments were being made. In the end, the six bolts are where the strength is for holding it all together. I kept the slotted holes "tight" so that any adjustment to the turnbuckle would not "fold" the two halves. The only other comment I have (which is kind of a silly comment) is that after all the work I did to fabricate this thing, once I got the alignment correct (5 minutes time), I've never had to adjust it again (well.... yeah! ) which makes it seem like a lot of work for so little time spent on it later. Simply slotting a split transverse link would do the same job, but the turnbuckle (which is the majority of the fabricating) is what makes any up-front adjustment so easy and acurate. Send out some photos when it's done and let us know how it turns out, total time and money spent, and your final comments. BTW, do you still want the straight 240 transverse link? If not, I'd be willing to purchase it from you.

I've got mixed feelings (as I'm sure many have had with the BlueOvalZ) in that I'm impressed with the vision and process used in fabricating the bodywork, but not sure of the final product's efficacy (in regards to the prancing horse). These photos brought back a lot of memories of the exact same process I used, except this guy who did the NSX was much more meticulous in his foamwork than I was, and the final pieces are really nice I'm impressed!! I'd have to shake his hand (or bow) and congratulate him on a job well done. Aux has a point though, in that as talented as this body man is, I'd like to see what he could do in an "original" design.

And then there is also the use of smaller diameter wheels and/or tires. A little bit of all the methods mentioned can add up to quite a drop.

Sounded kinda spooky to me, 'cause 6500 in 4th is great on the track, but... I've found only one place here at home that I'm comfortable with triple digit speeds on the public roads, and thats a quick blast down our 3/4 mile long, 6 lane river bridge when theres NO traffic. A tall divider in the middle, and a good barrier on the outside is the only reason.l

Come on Mike, quit being a pansy and tell us how you really feel! Oh, BTW, code 12-229 of the HybridZ forum code of conduct prohibits excessive use of the emoticons. But a little known fact is the use of a will offset the other two by a 1.333:1 ratio.

So this still does not answer the question in "mine own eyes." If my car is run on a chassis dyno, two separate runs, in different gears (or with different final drive ratios), then how does the dyno (or operator) bring together the two torque measurements (is rpm used, tire size, gearing, etc fiqured into the calculation?) to reflect that the same motor is used in both runs? A fiqure given in the quote above would make me want my money back being it does not appear to reflect the motor's parameters. Be kind, I know nothing about how a chassis dyno differs from the engine dyno other than the phyically different properties.

Grumpy? Is that you? Long time.... Oh yeah, while on the subject. Is the formula above valid regardless of the rod length to stroke ratio (or is this ratio simply a reflection of piston acceleration and not ultimate speed)?

I improperly assembled an oil hose Aeroquip fitting on my Mustang (same engine as I now use in the BlueOvalZ) many years ago, and at that time, I was into piezo alarms and LEDs to warn me of loss of oil pressure (fortunately) on the motor instead of sole reliance on gauges. At 6K the alarm went off, followed immediately by smoke coming into the car. I shut it down immediately, coasted to a stop, and found the oil hose to the remote filters had blown off the fitting. The motor couldn't have run more than a few seconds before I shut it down, but in that time, it pumped more than 4 quarts out of the pan.