Thumper

Well alot of newer cars run something similar. They fuel pressure around 60psi. The bad things about this is fuel heat up, and you can't run the fpr as a rising rate. The fuel pressure is fairly consistent in the fuel rail. But in returnless systems they take the feed line and split it. So I would take it and put a T in it and put the supply line to both sides if I was going to run this. But remember you can only run this setup with a constant fuel pressure.

Well I just bought a msd 2-step rev-control. Then I read this. http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/launch.html My question is has anybody hooked this up yet? Can you tell it too cut the spark instead of fuel like the rev-limiter? I would only be interested in the hard cut. I wouldn't want to retard timing. If this works well then I guess i'll have an msd 2-step and pills for sale soon Thanks

That is where I have it located also. I will relocate it to the fuel rail. Thanks

Wow I had no idea. I too have a wideband 02 sensor but no datalogging ability just yet. I too noticed it lean when building boost and then a gradual leaning out at high rpms. I also have the fpr installed on the passenger side strut tower. Did you hook the fpr directly to the fuel rail or did you just install the fpr alot closer. Thanks

Another thing I just thought of is WOT shifts. Since the stock ecu has a low 6300rpm revlimiter you could just shift without letting off the gas. This should cut 0.1 to 0.2 seconds off right there. You will notice alot since you are turbo. This way the turbo does not have to build up boost at all like an automatic. Even with a good bov you still loose boost. Oh yeah what rpms are you shifting at. If you look my ghetto beast dyno chart in my album when it was at 18psi I needed to shift out of 1st at 5800rpms, 2nd 5300, 3rd 5100. This would keep the maxium torque to the wheels as possible. This helped my car alot in the qt.

I say go for it. I also have a dash cap lying around and I have to remove the dash anyway this week to put my new gauges in. Maybe i will just remove the dash like I did in the ghetto beast... NAH Keep us update thanks.

LOL why yes little grass hopper I am aware of the search button. Although all my questions were either not asked or were out of date. You see lexan has come out with some good uv resistant in last 2 yrs. When it came to the weight I only found one answer it didn't sound conclusive. Plus it was just the weight of the oem glass. I would like to know the weight of the oem hatch with oem glass vs oem hatch with lexan. Thanks for your time though.

I am planning to do some more weight reduction on my z. It still has to be streetable but not daily driver. One of things i'm considering is replacing the rear window with lexan. So who has done this and how much weight has saved? If you have done this are you happy with it, can you drive it on the street, did you get the uv screen or tint, where did you buy it, what size did you get, and how much did it cost? When I am asking about weight difference I am talking about oem hatch with oem glass and oem hatch with lexan window. Thanks

Looks like a good list. I can't seem to recognize the language though. It does seem to be a germanic language, but not sure.

2 5/8" autometer gauges fit

When you say a carbon fiber hatch can save you 35lbs are you talking about both of the oem and the carbon fiber hatch with regular glass, or the stock one with regular glass and the carbon fiber one with lexan? I will be getting a carbon fiber hood but i'm not to sure that the hatch is really worth it if its a street car and you have to run regular glass. Also can you run lexan on the rear window and still have it street driven? There are no wipers to scratch it, no rolling up or down, only thing I can think of his extended sun light, no defroster, and no tint job. Thanks

I just read that you were launching at 4500-5000 rpms. Was that because it kept moving on yah or were you trying different rpms. Also did you keep on checking your tire pressure as the night went on and they heated up? You could try 14-15psi see if that helps also.

Jersey- I agree on the 60ft times. I think with just a better start you could hit 11's. From what I heard on the video maybe alittle harder of a launch. It kindof sounded like you bogged for a split second. What rpms did you launch at? I think with those drag tires 1.6's are possible on the 60'. I decided not to put another t3 in i'm going to a bigger turbo. So I guess I won't challenge jersey:twisted: . Although in my mind... Nah I was running low 12's some say 11's but my guess would have been low 12's. Did I read correctly in that you are planning to upgrade your turbo this winter or what are you plans for upgrades.

From what I understand just making the wga adjustable wouldn't fix the boost falling off at high rpms. What you need is a stronger actuator so that I can hold the wastegate shut at high rpms. I put a mbc on my friends 04' and it hits 19psi and then slowly drops to 12-13psi by redline. With the aftermarket wga it should do 20psi then drop to 16-17psi.

Here is great website on transmission ratios. http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html Personnally if you are going to run a turbo motor I would go with the 81-83 n/a 5-spd. It has a better 1st and 2nd gear so that you can build boost and accelerate better. Plus its been proven to handle 350hp+ And you can run the larger 240mm clutch vs the 225mm. The other good thing is it has a real 5th gear. The earlier 5-spds put the 5th gear and reverse gear together so they are weak. And it wasn't that deap of a 5th gear. Good luck

Looking good. When do you think it will be tearing up the street?

What i've found with my old setup (stock efi, 370cc injectors, npr intercooler, 3.545, t3 at 18psi) the best way to launch with street tires was rev to 4k then let out the clutch halfway, slipping it enough to keep rpms up and not to much to spin the tires and then bog. Then as boost builds let out clutch fully then modulate throttle if spinning. When I went to drag radials I did the same thing only started at 5k. With my street tires i was able to launch as hard as other cars even automatics with drag radials. I never took it to the track so no 60' times. If you have a lsd then you can let your tires spin just alittle bit to help with acceleration. But with an open diff once you spin alittle it messes up your power distribution alot. Is this the way you launch Jersey?

http://www.racetep.com/datsun1.html Top-end scroll down $110 for the front or rear.

LOL I had my peak torque at 2800rpms 404lb-tq. That was fun to say the least. But i only had 280hp so it dropped very very quickly. Nice numbers I think you can get 400wrhp out of it with just a tad bit more boost and better tuning. Good luck

Ahh now I get what that is. I thought it was the adjustable 2-step like this one. http://www.msdignition.com/rpm_5.htm Yeah that would be cool and only an extra $30. If I for some reason go slicks i will prbable want the 4k-5k pills anyway so only saving $8 then. Hmm nah I don't want to have ANOTHER box in my car. Too many as it is.

Yeah but I need 2-step because I am going megasquirt and I want to do full throttle shifts. So I need a low and high rpm switch. And the adjustable ones for that are $150 vs $80 for the 2-step plus rpm pills. So I think i will live with having to open hood and put a different pill in:twisted:

LOL i'm just about to order this myself. Wondering if I should get 3000-3800pills or the 4000-4800 pills. I think with our drag radials 3400 should do it so that is what i'm going to order. What pills did you order? I'm also ordering line lock so that I can do a better burn out. We will see if this helps.

I am unsure about the early 5-spds. I was talking about the 81-83 5-spds. You can put a 4-spd shifter into it. You cut the shifter right above the pivot point (where the pin goes through to hold the shifter in). You do this on both the 4-spd and 5-spd shifter and you take the 5-spd rod and weld it on the 4-spd pivot point. You only need to do this for the 280zx's to get the shifter in the correct location. In earlier z's you can just take out your shifter and put a 4-spd shifter in its spot. If you look at the two shifters side by side you can see there is a longer fulcrum so that is why it is a short shifter. Good luck

You can take a shifter from a 240z-260z 4-speed and put it into your 5-spd 240z-280z car. It has a longer fulcrum and will reduce the throws. If you have a 280zx n/a 5-spd then you need to cut the 4-spd right about the pivot point and weld the straight 280zx shifter onto it in order to have the shifter in the correct location. I have done this in my 280zx and my 260z. It makes a big difference. If you have a 83' 280zxt t-5 tranny you can use a B&W short shifter for a 89-3 mustang 5.0 tranny. Good luck.