Thumper

Looks to flashy and too heavy. My guess 22lbs+. But I do like the design.

Wow I guess I was lucky because the two I removed were fairly easy. Although i'm not sure if they had been replaced yet. So who won the strut or the trucks?

LOL thats funny. Well one born every minute.

The Azenis are a great tire and I would buy those over the others but... they do not make them that large in 15's. The es100 are better than the ecsta, same as ziex, and not as good as g-force sports. Besides the azenis I have not found any tire that can compare to the g-force for the price.

I'll take one dp for $9.99 Looks good. Did welding the cast to steel give you any problems? Have you decided on what muffler you are going to run or just open pipe?

I've got the gasoline and matches:twisted: . Nah sorry to hear about this mike. I guess that explains the low compression numbers we got awhile back. I'm not a block expert but could the metal shaving be the pistion rings? If not then it can only be turbo or valve train. Maybe you should just get a junkyard turbo block and pop it in there intill you do something with this block. Good luck

In the order of bad to good. Ecsta, Ziex, G-force. I have run all three on different cars. The ecsta are good cheap performance tire but the least sticky. Ziex are good but not worth the money over the ecsta. The g-force sports are very sticky and worth the price. I am currently running these on the z and they hook well and stick great. I would recommend them.

Too test the brake booster just put a vacuum pump on it and make sure it holds the vacuum. If so good if not bad. The fluid could also be from condesation or rain but that usually means the booster is bad.

I have fit 235/60's tires on my stock turbo rim. 15x6 Although 225's on 15x7 might be wider. I don't have any problems with rub on either side.

That motor looks very promising. It should fit inside the engine bay fairly well. I wonder though about what tranny you could run. Maybe a t-5 or something similar. I bet it weighs the same as an l28et also. Too bad no american cars ever got that motor.

I'm glad you found your problem. So was it your alternator or regulator? Usually alot of clicking noise will happen if your battery is low although you did say it started right back up. I would drive it a bit or if you have a charger put it on for an hour or two. If it does happen again then I bet you have a short.

Looks sweet. Umm did we forget about break-in:twak: So what are the engine specs? Cam specs?

Nice times. You are really moving on the top-end. Fix the brakes and shifter and you will be really flying. What is the max boost you are planning to run on street gas and on race gas? Good luck

$20,000.00-$100,000.00 Its a big ballpark. Wow that is nice. I too have always loved the FD's but not too found of the wankel's problems with big hp. Best of both worlds.

I too have seen a n42 with a cam oiler. Not sure about n47's though. Although I thought they didn't go internal intill 79' but not sure about that.

Yeah with non-cross flow head, 2 valves per cylinder, and t3 turbo the l28et makes no power past 6k. Actually not much power over 5500 either. With a cam and better turbo then yeah it would make more power up top. From what I read p90 head with solid lifters with a stiffer valve springs can go up to 7k maybe more not to sure. But this was always in relationship to an n/a motor. But my opinion for hp below 350hp and less than 6300rpms the hydraulic lifters are fine.

Yes up to 6k the hydraulic lifters are fine. I have even heard they can handle 6500 but most say that is the limit. But that is if they are in perfect condition. Alot of the not so good condition hydraulic lifters will bleed down at high rpms. Most noticed around 6000-6300rpms My old 280zx had this problem and on the dyno the hp dropped significantly.

Also some 82' models came with a p90a head. He could have just thrown the first available distributor on the engine though. I would guess you could look down at the crank pulley and see if their is CAS down there. If so then 81. About the turbo some shaft play is acceptable. No too much though. You can go ahead and run it and have the other turbo rebuilt/modified. Good luck

I was wondering what sensor is more accurate. A gm coolant temp sensor or the nissan cylinder head temp sensor. Thanks.

NM just saw your other thread.

Hey if you get bored can you take a pic of the intercooler pipe connection to the turbo? Or I can get my lazy *** up and drive 2 minutes to your house:twisted: Looks good. What color are you going to paint flat black? Kawaski green to match the drag rims?

The stock compression ratio is 7.38:1. By putting either a felpro or 1mm headgasket on there you are raising the compression to 7.52:1 If the head is shaved .010" the compression ratio will be 7.67:1. If .020" then 7.82:1 So every .010" shaved it will raise compression roughly 0.15:1 Unless your head is major fubared he should only need to shave .010-.015" Non-turbo 280zx motors that have had a turbo put on, can handle 13-14psi and their compression ratio is 8.52:1 Good luck

K for the lazy people like me. Maken=Measurements, Buis=The inlet and outlet diameter, and to convert mm to inches divide by 25.4. The rest of the words you should be able to guess.

What you don't think a n/a 87' 300zx can run a 12.00@122 Maybe on his keyboard only the 1 and 2 numbers work so it was either a 21@211 or 12@122 Btw it doesn't matter much because in a few weeks i'll be taking my car to the strip so you will just go down a notch again. Ok ok enough smack talking its the exhaust fumes i've been breathing.

I haven't read that article. But this is a go kart with a 1100cc kawaski engine. This is crazy. http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=E2B6EE8B-BE2E-41DD-BC3B-166A7EADAC3A&term=kart&p=0