Thumper

What wga are you ordering. I personally like the agp one and have only found it for $160.00 I think I remember seeing a $100.00 but it was a no name and didn't want my friend to take the chance. You got the website for the one you ordered? Here is a fun question ok we put a mbc on his srt-4. It is 18-19psi spike down to 13psi by redline. Every few days or so the check engine light comes on and the code is "over boosted". With the check engine light on it still runs perfectly. Not even less gas mileage. The car is suppose to have a stage 1 ecu not sure though. The fuel injector cover has the stage 1 logo but I do not know how to check the ecu it self. Its an 04' model. This car was bought used modified. From what you wrote he should not receive this light if he has a stage 1 ecu he should only have the timing being pulled? Is this correct or am I reading wrong? I guess i'll get a membership to srt-4 forums and ask but i'm too lazy and he doesn't have the knowledge to ask questions. Thanks

I found a bosch gm 4-wire universal one on ebay for 42.95 plus 5 shipping. Cheapest I found by 15.00

14psi is too much for the n/a fuel pump. 14psi is too much for the stock turbo fuel pump. At 13psi my turbo fuel pump started to starve my engine on the top-end. I would upgrade asap.

I hope we both do. I just want to be .000000001 faster:twak:

Bastaad525, Yes adding a spring to the wastegate arm will help the boost bleed down. It is similir if not ghetto way of putting on a different wastegate with a stiffer spring. The boost will go up and when the car is at higher boost the wastegate springs (both internally and externally now) will be strong enough to hold the wastegate flapper closed. The wastegate flapper is being pushed in by positive pressure built up in the turbo manifold. My guess on the srt-4 is that you didn't add enough of a spring. It is spiking to 18psi because the ecu isn't fastenough to open the wastegate. Then drops off like normal. When you upgrade the wastegate it is so strong that the ecu is trying to make it go down but the spring is too strong. So stock srt-4 wastegate is 4psi you put a spring on it to make is 8-10psi. What you need to do is get a strong enough spring to have 17psi. Then the ecu will send as much air to the actuator as possible but the wastegate will still boost at 17psi all the time.

Jersey- Yep difference of opinion both work though. I personally think being able to say you are the fastest person to run with the stock t3 is more of an achievement then getting another z to run 11's. Thats why in a few weeks you will be seeing video of me running 11's with the stock t3:twisted:

Sheesh and here I was wondering about braking my rear-end with drag radials and 300wrhp. Nice runs.

Ahh I didn't know there was a digital 6. Looks interesting. About the cooling on the highway is when the no thermostat will work best but still not better than a thermostat. Don't forget when you are racing your rpms are much higher so the water pump is spinning faster so your water will be flowing alot faster than say cruising on the highway. Me personally only noticed positive results in all categorys when I put my thermostat back in. If you want put a 160 degree in that way it will open up nice and low.

Someone is selling an r200 moustache bar on zcar. But he's asking for alot. Just give the local junk yard some calls one of them shall have it.

Sorry I don't agree. Anybody with 80k can go and buy a porsche. But not everyone can have 2k-20k buy a Z and build it up to be unique. Sure other z's will have something similar to your car but I bet any one of us could tell our car from anybody elses car. Well i'm going to put a spring on my wastegate to increase its holding ability at high rpms. I'll post when I have some conclusive results. 1-2 weeks.

Well it looks like its time to part with my miata. It is on ebay right now. Please let me know if you have any questions. Ted Schmidt http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4585809024&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT

Jersey I run the msd 6al and love the built in rev limiter it is nice and smooth. Soon i will upgrade to the 2 step so I can build boost off of the line. I too ran without a thermostat at one time then reliazed even at highway speeds my car would run cooler with a thermostat. The reason is, the coolant is recirculating way to fast through the radiator to cool off. With a thermostat in, there is a restriction, so the coolant flows slower so that it has more time to cool off in the radiator before going back into the motor. I would try thermostat and see if that helps.

I think you are down on power on the top-end. With 13 psi in a 2600 lb car with me in it I was running 12.7@107 on street tires. 60ft 1.998

I personally haven't heard of many drive shafts breaking from drag radial launches. Only for normal wear and tear and full race slicks. First to go is the r180, then stock halfshafts, then r200's, then cv shafts, and then driveshafts. Atleast that is what I think the order is. Thats not even getting into mounts or tranny's.

The 82 and the 83 turbo distributor had the internal cas. Either one of those can be used when you go standalone. Only the 81's had an external one. But even then you can use one of those if you want to. I will just take alittle more fabrication.

http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html

This guy does wheelies and 1.34 60ft times on the stock rear-end. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105587So it candle the abuse of bigger tires than 195's I personally have put 235/60 drag radials on my r200 with stock halfshafts non-cv axles.

I'm not just trying to steal the 3.36 from yeah:twisted: but if you are going to stay n/a then the 3.545 will help. I would even go with a 3.9. I ran 2.8l 10:1 compression su carbs, msa header, intake, mallory dist and a 3.545 rear-end. I then changed to a 3.9 rear-end and picked up two car lenghts on my friends modded vw gti 1.8t So you might want to consider a 3.9 Although with the 2.9l you just might want a 3.545 plus it would be better for highway cruising. I also have both speedo gears so that your speedo won't be off. PM me and let me know when you would want to switch.

Wow that looks good. At first I was ummm I guess they will look good. But the finished product looks GREAT. And I love that white on it. Good job.

You should have a 3.36 r200. Yes you can fit any r200 in there. I have been looking for a 3.36 for awhile and I have a 3.545 and a 3.9 So if you would rather have one of these diffs better for an n/a motor let me know. But if you have a turbo motor then guard that diff.

You can run some 215 halfway decent tire compound tires on the stock 280zx wheels. Even 225 on some of them. On the turbo rims you can run 235/60 bfgoodrich drag radials.

You shallow stage by just barely getting both lights to light up and then you stop. You can roll an inche or two with both of them still lit up, but the earlier you stop the more shallow you are staged. And yes deep stage is when the top light is no longer lit. You probable already are shallow stageing. The other thing you can do is put a skinnier tire up front to reduce rolling resistance but this would negate the how you drive it on the street. Also it might make the car more squirly on the top end.

Shallow staging helps your e.t. because you start moving alitle before you untrip the beams. So in fact your are going 1-2mph before the timer starts. If you deep stage then this can help your reaction time.

It was too rich all through the rpm range even at 6k. Even on the ghetto beast when I dynoed it at 23psi it was at 12.5:1 and I had the afm at 18 teeth and fpr 30psi with vacuum. But I would either dyno it or get a wideband because maybe your head temp sensor is off or your fuel injectors aren't flowing correctly etc... I think you might have a problem with cooling. Even when I was doing high speed runs full throttle for 30-40seconds in 90 degree and 70%humidity weather my gauge would not move more than 15 degrees on an autometer. Check to make sure your radiator is even on the heat. A.K.A. put your hand on different parts of the radiator while it is warm and make sure they are all the same temp. Then you might want to run a 170 or 160 thermostat. Higher psi radiator cap. 30% water 70% coolant etc... Good luck