Thumper

Personally I would run a ka24de then turbo it. You can get a turbo manifold for $300, oil line kit for $80, a t25 turbo for $50 and meqasquirt for $350 with sensors. Then again I think you are already getting the meqasquirt parts. Then you can run 10psi on the stock engine and have 230hp. Hey olie let sparky or I know about the engine so I can get it out of the corner of my garage. Hey sparky I would rather not have to find a crate and take this to a shipping company (they don't like coming to my house) so I prefer if you could pick it up.

I'm thinking about turboing an n/a 280zx. I have a p90a head and a p79 head. I will use the p90a head because of the exhaust ports. I have a p79 (F) cam and a P90a ( cam. I have read that the p79 cam has more lift and duration. I also know that too much duration on a turbo is bad. So my question is the p79 cam better than the p90a cam for 12psi 8.7:1 comp ratio engine. Thanks Cam specs can be found here. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Hey olie I ran my sentra with a sr20de for 4yrs so if you want to pick my brain give me a call. Basically the sr20de came with 9.5:1 us version or 10:1 j-spec. The sr20ve is nice but not worth extra money. You might as well get a turbo for that price. My sr20de made 165 at the wheels with ram air intake, msd 6a, hotshot headers, jwt s4 cams, jwt computer, 2 1/2" mandrel bent exhaust, and stock flywheel. You can't get sr20de over 150 without cams. Cams cost $500-600. Then you need an aftermarket ecu or get yours reprogrammed. JWT charges $600. The max compression ratio you can run on pump gas is 10.5:1 The engine itself is very stout though. I ran a 75 shot on my j-spec 10:1 comp ratio for over a yr with no problems. It even would have handled a 100 shot if I upgraded my fuel pump. FWI I have a j-spec longblock minus cams, valve cover, and etc... sitting in my garage. I would replace the piston rings and rebuild the head before using it though. I would give it too you for $50 if you want it. Also ITB's are the way to go on the sr20's they work great. The sr20de power band is nothing like a honda's A sr20de is a square motor meaning its bore and stroke are the same at 86mm. It has 20lbs-30lbs more torque than a similar rated 140hp stock honda engine. The power band is still very 4 cylinderish but much more useable power at low rpms. You can buy a compelete turbo motor with everything you need to get it running for $1600. This can make about 220hp without upgrading a thing. Good luck

They are adjustable illumina's and they are set on the softest setting on all four corners. I guess another thing I should mention is the sway bar is a aftermarket 1 1/8" sway bar so heavier and stiffer than stock. What I might do is trade with my friend and sell the aftermarket one for an oem.

I didn't mean to come off as rude. I had my gf read it and she agrees I should have eaten before I replied. I appreciated john's answer. What I tried to say is that if I wanted to be safe that is what I would do. My question was not about safety in drag racing but in how stable the car would be at highway speeds. I had the ghetto beast with no sway bars, and very very old/bad supsension on the highway and hated it. I didn't even like going 65 over bouncing road. I think most of it was bad bushings and struts. I'm mostly looking for someone who has an earlier z running without a front sway bar. Thanks for your time.

I know there will be a difference in response and handling but what i'm trying to ask is how much of a difference will there be? Will it be unsafe to drive on the highway? If I went by your logic then I should install big brakes, a parachute, automatic fire system, and a 12pt roll cage just incase the car on the other side goes into my lane. I do believe that most if not all fast camaro's and mustangs do not run a front sway bar. It promotes more lift and less weight. Thanks

So it seems like the most accurate place to put it is on the intake manifold. And the better looking and convienent way is on the ic piping. Since there are so few sensors with megasquirt might as well get as accurate readings as you can. Thanks

I have heard that for alittle better traction and less weight people remove there front sway bar to help the front tires lift up during the launch. The theory is there but i'm worried about high speed stability. I have poly bushings in all my suspension with aftermarket struts and springs. My trap speeds will be 110+ The car will be driven to and from the track on the highway at highway or greater speeds. If I remove the front sway bar will my high speed handling become more vague and wander more? Thanks

73turbo240z and I were having a discussion about where we are going to install our IAT sensors. I was thinking in the intercooler pipe after the intercooler. He's planning to install his in the intake manifold right after the tb in the cold start injectors hole. His way would probably give more accurate results because of the contributing exhaust manifold heat. Although from what I've read most people install it in the intercooler pipe. What is best? Thanks

2 for $5.00 plus 2.95 in shipping. Total of $7.95 for two. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/O2-Sensor-Nut-Bung-02-Pair_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46097QQitemZ8005700937QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD9V

Sad thing is I too got suckered into buying leather pants by a short girl, but she made me wear them twice although I do remember getting rewarded for my sacrifice. Hmmm I smell an ebay auction coming up:twisted: Only bad thing is my leather pants are more like cheap pleather pants. Then again I could always use them as work on car pants.

So performance wise keeping it open is slightly better. No one has responded to reliablility so I assume there is no difference. On the sound issue it seems we have two completely opposite opinions. Either you love it or hate it. I think the sound is going to sway me either one way or another. When I was a kid I did put baseball cards in my spokes but lately i'm getting tired of loud cars. My z was running with just a downpipe for a month. Then I put a muffler right after the downpipe and now i'm planning to put a full exhaust 3" exhaust with muffler on it. Something I just thought of is during normal driving or highway driving it won't matter since it won't open. So the only difference will be under full throttle. So my question has now become what sounds best open or re-circulated? Thanks

With my new turbo I might have to go with an external wastegate so i'm contemplating how to install it. I will most likely run a 38mm tial off of the stock manifold located at the no. 5 or 6 cylinder. My question is should I re-route the exhaust port into my downpipe or just leave it open? I'm worried about performance, sound, and reliability. Thanks

The sensors you will need are o2 usually 4-wire, tps usually 240sx, IAT usually GM, and then either coolant temp or cylinder head temperature switch usually stock. If you look at the sticky it will tell you all the info you need.

1 million dollar deposit due 24hrs after end of auction. Yeah I wish.

It depends on if you plan to run a n/a engine or a turbo engine. Turbo you will want a 3.545 and n/a 3.9 or 4.11 This is for short track work, no big straight aways.

I have a stock 260z steering rack with the quick steer knuckles 2.5? lock to lock and 225/50 r15 es 100 tires. And yes the steering is hard but not unbearable. Also I have an aftermarket smaller steering wheel. If I was going to do lots of solo II then maybe but for street driving or road racing I don't see a need.

I have heard you can do it but it involves using the crossmember from a 280zx. I am not 100% sure though but I know someone has posted about it so try to search alittle more.

I agree black or gunmetal looks sweet on orangish redish colors. Look at my gallery for my red z with powercoated black turbo rims. How much do they weight with tires on them?

I was running them at 24psi. Funny thing was is on street tires I can hang with cars on drap radials, but when I put mikes drag radials nothing was able to keep up with me off of the line. Then I found out I was 6psi too high:shock: I can't wait to see mikes car launch with these at 18psi. I was also launching on a rough road so that could cause a different wear pattern then at the drag strip.

The stock 4age out of a toyota mr2 has been known to handle a 75hp shot no problem. But every car that has tried a 100 shot only blew up either on the first run or second run. The 4age comes with 110hp stock so they are similar displacement and similar power but the 4age was designed in 85 vs the scions 02? I would try a 75 shot for awhile and see how the spark plugs and other parts handle it. Then one fun night with a AAA card handy try the 100shot:twisted:

Only thing about my turbos were on my first turbo, my oil pump was bad. On the second and 3rd the oil pressure was still low due to restriction in the oil cooler. And the 4th was due to running 18-20 psi with a n/a oil pump. I'm not saying that the t3 is reliable at these boost levels just saying my case had other factors. The ghetto beast ran 4 months at 18-20 psi before I removed the engine. The turbo had very little shaft play so it can hold it just not for very long.

The solid lifter is a smaller diameter then the hydraulic lifter. So you have to get custom adapters made to fit a solid lifter into a hydraulic lifter.

Yeah i've read your threads about that but don't have the money for those custom adapters. Plus down the line I am going to buy a p90 solid lifter head and get lots of headwork done to it. So this one is just for now. Thanks anyways.

I love those cars. I don't say that about many cars but the lotus deserves it. The link doesn't work.