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When my car was running the stock efi and 370cc I played around with Mikes wideband and found most of the time I couldn't get my car lean enough. I was running 18 teeth tightened and 30 psi with vacuum and 38 no vacuum at idle. I didn't have any boost leaks and my head temp sensor was brand new. So my guess is either the 370 were maxed out but probably not or the timing was a tad bit to high. I don't think the stock t3 can max out 370cc injectors trust me i've tried. So next time you go the track and hear pinging back off the timing one or two and see if this helps. If not then the t3 is just too hot up there. So when you say you were running 19psi this was when you were going down the track or when you set it on the street. On my car I noticed a big difference in boost when I would race from a stop and from when I would just punch it on the street. 2-3 psi usually. Also what was your boost by redline? Just wondering to see what I will have to do. I'll probably wait intill a buy a new turbo and then turn the t3 up to 21psi and see how long it lasts:twisted:

Some might call this cheating but... strip the car and you can get 11's easy:twisted: Seats, carpet, radio, bumpers, hood, drill speed holes. So what rpm were you launching out and were you slipping the clutch?

Nice times Jersey. Don't forget to update your signature. I will be trying for 11's my self on the stock t3 but I will be running megasquirt. Got any vids? Also what tire pressure were you running?

WOW:shock: I was thinking nice sounding engine then he LAUNCHED. Not like car launch but rocket launch. Wonder what speeds he was doing?

I would put a 12v power on the starter solenoid and see if it turns. If it doesn't then you know its the starter. If it does then you know its your wiring. Then check the wire that goes to the starter solenoid and see what voltage it puts out when the key is in the start position. And work your way back to the ignition switch from there.

I just thinking about my problem of boost drop at high rpms. I know its not caused by my turbo running out of steam because I can turn up the boost and it goes up the same amount even at redline. My friend has a srt-4 that is known for having this problem and what most of them do is put a new wastegate on with a higher boost actuator and then the boost is much more stable. This makes sense to me since the stock wastegate on a z is set at 6-7psi and I'm trying to more than double that at 15psi. My question is there any way I can upgrade my wastegate actuator or can I put a spring on the original one to tighten it? Thanks

I did alot of research a couple months ago on this topic and found 18psi is best. Just make sure if its cold out side to warm them up alittle better than normal. I ran them at 24psi:twak: and still loved them. But 18psi is suppose to be twice as good. My turbo went out before I could launch with 18psi. I can't wait. Let us know what you run.

I'm been thinking about turbochargeing a n/a 280zx. I would run the stock flat top pistons, p90 head, t3 turbo, and isuzu intercooler. This will net me 8.7:1 compression ratio. I am looking for 250hp with high compression and not interested in low-compression. I have read that you can run either 13psi or 16psi on similar setups. I was wondering what boost you guys have run on a 8.5:1+ compression engines? Thanks

I'm finishing up collecting all the parts and was wondering what gm oxygen sensor do I need. Will any 4-wire sensor work? Or should I order for a certain year or model? Also where did you find the cheapest to buy one? Thanks almost squirting. Ted

Some people will vouch for him and defend him. I personally don't know him. But I have heard of a few others in your situation. No one though has been ripped off by him. He takes awhile to respond sometimes.

I had the same problem on my 280zx turbo. Not sure if it applys but the ecu connectors get dirty. Unplug them clean them and put them back in. Fixed my problem. Hope this helps.

Ok thats cool. So the factory revlimiter cuts fuel and the softrev's cut spark and thats why the softrev will build boost and not the factory revlimiter. I guess I will have to get a 2 step for my msd 6al. I think I will have to play around with this. I hate lag:twak: Thanks.

The two step is the way to go for consistant launches and WOT shifts. But it still won't build boost on the line. The two step is just a rev limiter like you were holding your rpms at a certain point or just bouncing off of the factory 6300 redline. You will have power because of high rpms but still no boost. In order to build boost you need load. So a 2 step plus line lock would work. Or you have to use your e-brake or some other way to load up the engine while at rpms. Please let me know if my logic is wrong.

Best thing to do is stick with your n/a block but use the p90 turbo head. I would get it rebuilt with a valve job prob $150.00 The p90 turbo head has the correct exhaust ports that will match up to the turbo manifold. If you use an n47 head they will not match. You can put this together and run 10 psi with an intercooler. About 220wrhp. Good luck

73turbo240z and I are chickening out. A friend of his is going to build them for us, test them for 24hrs, and make a wiring harness for us. We should have ours in 2-3 weeks.

Also check the oil for water. Usually if the head gasket is blown then you will have coolant going into the oil as well as the combustion chamber. Then again if the car has been sitting for many years then there might be condensation oil anyways. At wors=cracked block, not so bad=headgasket, and really nice=oil, gas, and coolant flush.

I've thought about this myself and found that I can heel toe the brake and gas while letting out the clutch to build the boost. Then when the light goes green let off of brake and floor it. I personally haven't tried this technique but I believe this is possible. What I do is launch at 3k-5k depending on if i'm on drags and streets. I just use the engine revs to move the car before the boost builds and I can get 2.0-1.9's on street tires. Something you could do is line lock with a switch on the steering wheel. That would be easier then my way.

Thats a good idea. I'm already riding on a carboard box, the brakes are my feet going through the floor, and body is held together by jbweld. But I have a huge 500lb engine:twisted: Nah safety is always first but removing the front sway bar at the drag strip when you are trapping 110 is not unsafe.

Simple answer is its free! CF hoods $380, battery $80, etc... or remove sway bar FREE. I like that word. Actually the bar is closer to 30lbs but no biggie. Well my plans have changed for now (suprise suprise wait a day or two and it'll change again) but it looks like this car will be my daily driver for awhile longer so sway bar stays on for now. I think if I make this car just a drap car then I'll remove it. Also if you get a cf hood and remove the sway bar thats 60lbs. So every little bit adds up. Thats how you can get a 3000lb car down to 2480 like I did on my ghetto beast. Remove everything that you can while being safe then some more and hope you don't have to stop, turn or hit a bump:twak:

Hate to say this but SEARCH. There is alot information on this webiste that should answer most if not all of you questions. Basicaly it can be done and for little amount of coin.

Also this thread is not about a turbo gas mileage it is about sr20de n/a vs ka24de n/a. Although I would turbo my lawn mower if I had the chance. He is mostly worried about weight and power delivery then gas mileage. I think n/a the ka24de for a 280z would be better than the sr20de. Because the displacement and torque. Also you still can rev those to 7k.

MKIV turbo's 550cc, 3rd gen rx-7 660cc don't know any bigger

n/a ka it is. My friend had a 93 240sx with just an intake an a pacesetter head it ran a high 15's. His car weighed in at 2970 with out him in it. So my quess you could lose atleast 400 if not 500lbs and be in the 14's right then and there. Put some good headers, shave the head a bit, some cams, and megasquirt you should be looking at 170wrhp. Same as your current engine just 50-75lbs lighter.