Thumper

i have personally delt with Japan Direct and Soko . I had positive experiences with both of them. Japan Direct was alittle bit faster in getting me my engine and more friendly, but Soko was cheaper and slightly more knowledgeable about there products. I bought a j-spec sr20de from japan direct and a j-spec 4AGZE motor from soko. I hope this helps. http://www.usedengine.com http://www.soko.com

I have a set off 370cc injectors just lying around. Right now i'm limited to 10psi because of no intercooler. Unfortantely I will not be able to get an intercooler for a couple months so i'm stuck at 10psi . So would I see any benefit at my current state of tune by putting these in. I would of course adjust the afm 18 teeth. Mostly I am looking to get rid of the lean running condition above 5k, but I also do not want to run way too rich under normal driving conditions. So what do you guys think keep the stock injectors in or upgrade to the 370cc's? I think I might upgrade to the 370cc's so that I can tune it at low boost and then when I get the intercooler and a fuel pump I'll be able to turn the boost up without having to worry about the injectors but worried about messing up a well running car. Well thanks for your time and input.

Well unfortantely I do not have any money even for cheap intercoolers. The reason I am going to try to run the 83 280zxt gas tank is because I have one for free and I do not mind doing some metal work. Plus I like to have a big gas tank for when I like to drive to austin or dallas and back. Thanks for info.

I am working on swapping my 83 280zxt engine and drivetrain over to my 72 240z. I have run into three problems with three solutions but would like your opinions. 1. Fuel tank = I am going to use the 83 zxt tank in the 72 chassis. I think the only problem is that I will have to cut the stock spare tire well and weld a metal plate in its place so that the fuel tank can sit flush. 2. Fuel tank sending unit = I am looking to get an autometer fuel level guage but I need to know what range gauge I should get. I think it is the 70-10 ohm since I've heard the gm 0-90 ohm will read backwards. 3. 370cc svo/merkur injectors = I have a set off 370cc injectors just lying around. Right now i'm limited to 10psi because of no intercooler. Unfortantely I will not be able to get an intercooler for a couple months so i'm stuck at 10psi . So would I see any benefit at my current state of tune by putting these in. I would of course adjust the afm 18 teeth. Mostly I am looking to get rid of the lean running condition after 5k but I do not want to run way too rich under normal driving conditions. Well thanks for your time and input. Ted S.

I believe since the L6 has a timing chain you are not able to run with open sprocket. If I remeber correctly the timing chain is oiled by the oil pump. So if you cut off the vc or the timing cover then you would have oil squirting everywhere. But yeah I love the open vc look. I wish there was a way to have best of both worlds. Not having to worry about belt breaking and being able to run open vc. Life is so cruel.

I ran my 83 280zx n/a tight for about a year. I forget what gap I ran. I had heard that it would cause more wear and tear, but about a month ago when I sold the car I took the valve cover off and it looked the same as it did a yr ago. On the other hand I really didn't notice any difference in power but the valve noise was much quieter than my previous gap I ran.

POOR SRT-4 Mommy and Daddy's money + Son's boredom and stupidity = This = Early retirement for this srt-4

Thanks guys. I am actually planning on doing some more weight removal soon just to see how light I can get it. I am not going to remove any thning critical or any support metal just little stuff maybe 50lbs. I will definitely weigh it again after I remove some more stuff. There is a chassis shop down the road that can corner weigh cars so I might get them to do it for me. At the track I put some 104 octane in it just for some fun; that is why i upped the boost a bit. Although when I did my mph never went up. Actually my fastest time was .4 mph slower than my second fastest time. But on the street I am running 9.5psi at 3k and at 6k 10psi. I have alittle boost creep problem, but then again i'm running long lines for my mbc so that I can adjust it without burning my hands on the manifold. Well I keep you guys posted maybe I can get it under 2500lbs

Thanks Mike. Yeah i was thinking at lowest 2650. I did weigh it a couple of times as the night went on and it did loose about 15lbs as the night went on because of less gas. I was at houston raceway park and there was a few dodge neon srt-4's there I was hanging with. They weighed 3150 and 3095. They had sunroof's and aftermarket exhaust other than that stock. And from what I know that is right where they are suppose to weigh. I have stripped all the a/c, heating, and blowing stuff. Remove half of the dash by cutting it. No radio and speakers etc... No carpet or any panels at all. I cut the hood alittle bit for better cooling and to get rid of some rust. Removed the middle part of the front fascia cause it was bent badly. I was at a 1/4 of a tank of gas. The car does have full exhaust, stock body panels, stock glass, factory bumpers, pass side seat, some sound deading, heat blanket on firewall, stock electrical dash, power steering, power windows, power mirrors, and rear sway bars. So do you guys think wrong scale or just light weight car

Thanks for info bastaad525. Unfortantely I could not go to the dyno yesterday. Maybe in the future I will. I was able to go to the track last night and it was fun. My car did weigh 2535 with out me in it and 2685 with me and my helmet in it. I still have half of dash in there, a passenger side seat, some tools, and other little stuff I can remove if I feel like it. My main problem was with my 60'. I could not get them to stay very consistent. My problem is I have very blown shocks, and a broken rear diff mount. So either bog or spin. Although I did not try to slip the clutch because I am not sure what type of clutch is in it and I did not want to worry about it overheating. Well my fastest was 60' 2.056 330 5.721 1/8 8.722 MPH 81.36 1000 11.383 1/4 13.603 MPH 101.20 That was at 10.5 boost and a small spike of 11psi. Fuel pressure was at 35psi with vacuum or with the line attached to the manifold should be about 43 psi unattached. And timing is at an unknown setting I will go see where I had to move it last night after it stops raining. Most of my runs where in the 13.7's with a 60' of a 2.1's. I think with better suspension and rear diff mount I could have gotten into the 13.5's. I can't wait for two weeks the temperature should drop about 20 degrees. Can't wait to get this motor in my other car

Thanks for info. At the track there is weigh station right after the ticket booth. I believe its fairly accurate so when I go the track i'll be able to weigh my self. I have just about removed everything you can to remove yet keeping it safe enough to drive there and back, well atleast kindof safe. Hey bastaad525 I know you have done alot of reading on the air/fuel ratio. Was wondering what you run and what you would recommend. Right now my settings are 42 psi with the fpr unplugged, 29 degrees timing on a 83 ecu, BPR7ES-11 set at .045, 10 psi with a mbc, and no pinging at all. I am shooting for under 13:1 and above 11:1. I can't wait intill I can get this into my other z and get an intecooler. 12 psi here I come. TIA

Well I'm going to dyno this thing friday and then run it at the track. I looking for 200hp and 220lb. And at the track I would like a trap speed of 100 and hopefully a 13.99 in time. First my specs. 83' 280zx turbo 5-spd 1g BOV, MSD 6al, MSD Blaster 2, Magnecor Wires, 60mm tb, Custom Intake, Adjustable FPR, MBC set at 10psi, and a 3 inch non-mandrel exhaust. I have also completely stripped the car. It should weight about 2600 without me in it. I weight roughly 150. I have brand new 225/60 bfgoodrich g-force sports on the stock 15x6 turbo wheel. I think I am going to try to keep the air/fuel below 12.5:1 and above 11:1. I can adjust the fpr, the spring in the wheel of the afm, and the actuall arm position in the afm. My timing right now is set at 27deg and I have no problem with pinging. So far on my kill board includes a stock 350z by 5 car links, a intake and exhaust mustang gt by 3 car links, and 4wd gsx who says he runs 13.7 buy a nose. (all with very old 205/60 Cooper Cobra tires). Does this sound about right or what would you change. TIA

Congratulations!!! Sounds like you should be in the mid 14's. Enjoy the Ride

Hey everybody finally getting the engine running the way I want to but a new question popped up and I would appreciate any help. Ok here is the question. I new when i installed the msd 6al I would loose my tach in my instrument cluster so I got an aftermarket tachometer. My question is does the ecu also not receive the tach signal. If it does not receive the signal does it need the signal for its calculations. TIA.

So did anyone ever try this? If so how is your rear main seal and did you notice a difference.

Well I was out driving my car today with my newly installed autometer boost gauge and saw that i'm boosting 7psi at 2100-3500 then after that it will slowly raise to about 7.75 by about 6k. My car has an intake, 3" non-mandrel bent exhaust on it, and a fpr. I have read that the car is suppose to boost about 6 psi so what do you think is causing this. I did have to remove my Emergency Relief Valve because it would go off once in awhile. I'm thinking there is some carbon/gunk buildup in either the vacuum line or the wastegate. I will upping the boost to 10 psi when my boost controller comes so the boost creep should go away but i'm not sure. Thanks in advance

I undid my injector plugs and put them back on and was wondering if you could put them on in the wrong order. So I searched and found that they all fire at the same time so you can not put them on in the wrong order. I was wondering if anybody could explain this? Do they fire six times or just once. If I read wrong how can I tell what injector plug goes on what injector? TIA

I second the head temperature sender. I just bought a car dirt cheap because it would flood exactly the way you are describing. And after switching every part of the car out injectors, afm, ecu, coolant temp switch, fpr, cap, rotor etc... I finally bought a new sender at nissan $37 put it in and it fired right up. Not to get off topic but 2slo4u what about the coolant temp switch in heater hose lines. I thought the car needed that for some reason. Or that might be thermotime switch you were talking about, well when I get home from work tonight i'll look it up in my manual.

I just tested my n/a 280zx and it had the same results as the turbo one, but the n/a car runs perfect. But I think I will go and borrow one tom just to make sure. Thanks for the help.

lol yep and I'm going to make millions. Well still having the same problem please help. Thanks

I have a 83 280zx turbo. I went to test the afm and all seems to be good. Only thing I noticed is when I test the resistance between terminala 32 and 34 the resistance does not go up gradually or equally. The manual says that if the resistance is between 0 and infinite then its good. Does it matter that the resistance does not go up smoothly. Thanks for your time.

Ok heres an update. The car when cold will run intill it fully heats up 6-8 minutes idleing. Also it will run with all the fuel lines disconected from the fuel rail. It will not run if the injector caps are unplugged. There was no fuel going to or from that fuel rail I swear. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Well I just picked up this 83' 280zx turbo. It sat for 2 yrs. I did the basic tuneup spark plugs, wires, cap rotor, thermostat, oil, tranny, o2, etc... The problem is when I turn off the car and try to restart it the car won't start. I look at the plugs and they are soaked so the car is getting floaded. If I wait all night long the next morning it will start right up. I instaleled a fpr with gauge and it is right at 30 psi at idle and 37 at full throttle. When I turn off the car the psi will go down to 20 psi in about an hour. The weird thing is that I unplugged the fuel pump and the car keeps running. It takes 30 seconds or so to die. Then when it does die, without hooking up the fuel pump, I can start it again and it will idle for 30 seconds again. If I give any throttle during this time it dies. The fpr gauge reads 0 psi the whole time this is going on. I will be taking off the fuel rail to make sure the injectors are not leaking but I doubt it since the fuel pressure stays up for so long. Also there is no other fuel pump or fuel lines running to my engine. Thanks for you time and input.

Well thanks for the info. I will be ordering two of them tom. One for me and one for my friends gti 1.8t. I will not be using the stock vacuum tube so I think i'm going to drill a hole and put a small nipple right after the turbo so that I can the least amount of spiking. Thanks for help P.S. 13's here I come

I am going to order one of these for my l28et and I was reading the instructions on the web page and it says do not use the original wastegate line as your boost source. It was said on the instructions page, http://www.dawesdevices.com/SDinstructions.html, part 3, line 2. I am going to install it the way they say but I am wondering why wouldn't you use the original? I think it would be much easier to install this way and I can not think of any negative side effects. Although I do not have the car infront of me to tell me where the vacuum tube is located in the intake tract so maybe I am missing something. TIA