Thumper
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Everything posted by Thumper
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Schneider cams stage 2 or 3 differences and recommendation
Thumper posted a topic in Nissan L6 Forum
I am looking at getting a cam for my new 260z. I am looking at either the stage 2 grind #17033 or stage 3 #17034. The car specs are a n42 block/e88 head, 3-angle valve job, zx flat top pistons, 10:1 comp, mallory unilite distributor, msd 6al, blaster 2 coil, 71 rebuilt carbs with sm needles, n36 intake manifold, msa 6-2 header, 81 zx n/a 5-spd, 3.9 rear end. My plans are solo-II and daily driver. I will be getting the rocker arms and spring upgrade with either cam. I do not mind a higher idle or a loopy idle. No low-end grunt would be problem because of daily driver so stage 4+ is out of the question. Recommendations? Also why does the stage two have more lift and more duration on intake, but the stage 3 has more exhaust duration, less overlap, less lift? Thanks for you input and time. WEBSITE WITH CAM SPECS http://www.schneidercams.com/cams/50.htm Ted -
Ouch that them there fighting words mikey
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GM Finally introduces an OHC vtec powered corvette
Thumper replied to auxilary's topic in Non Tech Board
OMG!!! Speechless And look at those wheels:twak: -
OMG!!! LOL!!! Dumbass got what he deserved. Looks like he was leaning out the door to hit someone with his hand and lost his balance. INSTANT KARMA AT ITS FINEST!!!
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Yep o'reilly has the parts in the warehouse in stock. The master cylinder is not too bad of prive but the brake booster is way too much. I just went to pinemount auto salavage and picked up another brake booster. I have a early 74 260z and have no problems with the brake booster hitting the clutch master cylinder. Well if you want i'm selling the whole 240z for $100 now. Not this wknd but next wknd if its not sold them off to scrap yard it goes.
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What you can do is install a 15/16" master cylinder out of 79-80zx directly to the stock brake booster. The stock master cylinder is 7/8". But since you want to replace both the brake booster and the master cylinder get the ones for the 81-83zx. The booster is bigger and the master cylinder is the 15/16". In order to install the booster out of 81-83zx into an earlier z you have to flip it upside down since the bolt pattern is offset just alittle bit and then the 81-83 master cylinder bolts right up to the booster. Then you just need to adjust the pushrod lenght and you are good to go. I just finished this on my 260z I bought so you can come over and look at it if you have any questions. The brake pedal feel is alot better and bairly any effort is need to stop the car. Now I just need to upgrade the calipers themselves. Ted
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I just bought a 260z with su's and a mallory unilite distributor. I love the distributor it fires perfectly has a built in adjustable advance curve, etc... My question is when I put my turbo engine in the car I will be running a meqasquirt ecu so would it be better to run the stock 83 dizzy or the unilite. For ease I would guess 83 dizzy since people have done it. But what about the most reliable performance? Thanks Ted
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Pics of new car! Quick easy question on my fuel setup?
Thumper replied to Thumper's topic in Non Tech Board
Thats what I thought but i've looked and looked and cannot find a return line. It is possible the previous owner removed it near the gas tank when he install his tripples. But even in the trans tunnel there is only one fuel line. So I think i'll hook it up dead headed just to get it running to pull it into my garage so I can get it up on jack stands and take a look. -
Well I just got a 74' 260z for my turbo motor. Right now it has a 280z block with flat top pistons and a e88 head. Tokico struts and springs, poly bushings, 3.7 rear end, sway bars, etc... It also had tripple webers but I let him keep them so that I can install my su's and save my money for my turbo parts. My question is he ran his tripple webers with an electric pump at 3.5 psi and it was deadheaded. He just had a supply line no return (don't think the 260z has a return line). I am removing the stock mechanical pump since I have the electric one. On my carb's there are two lines going to the su's. I think I am going to just tee the supply line and put it too both of the lines. I have included pics of what i'm talking about. What do you guys think? Thanks for your time. Ted
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I am looking for about 400-450hp and 450-500tq. I am rebuilding my engine and will be using the stock crank, shotpeening the stock rods, and using +1mm forged pistons with a bunch of apr bolts. I will have a valve job, mild porting, and mild cam in the head. My question is should I run the 57 trim for better boost response and then spray a 50+ shot or run the 60trim for more efficency and more boost? This car will be a street car and will be used 50/50 solo II events and drag events. What kind of difference are we talking on spool up time between the two? Both will have 360 degree thrust bearings. 100-200rpms or 300-400rpms? Thanks
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Anyone run these Yokohama's on their Z?
Thumper replied to Jersey's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I have tried falken azenis, es100, and escta 712's all on a miata setup for solo II csp. The es100 where on 16x7 rims will the 712 and azenis where on 15x8. My preference in order is azenis best dry handling ok wet, es100 good dry good wet, 712 ok dry, best wet. The azenis did where faster than the 712's and es100's but they are also softer. The es100's and the 712's seem to last about the same length. If you could get all the tires in the same size I would get the es100 over the 712 for daily driving, and the azenis for solo II events. My problem is I can get the 712's in 255 and the es100's 245 so I have to face a decision more tire or better tire. Hope this helps. -
I am going to running 10" coilovers, zg flares, on some 16x8 rims. I am looking for the most lateral traction. Personally I think the avs es100 stick better but they are also 0.8" thinner than the wider escta 712's. Also on the avs es100 I could also get 245/45 so that the tire size it same as stock, little less weight, and less side wall flex, but I would loose a little bit on the final drive ratio. So what one, the sticky smaller tire or the wider not as sticky but still sticky tire?
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I thought so about the cylinder walls. But I thought the dents in the pistons where maybe from metal shavings getting into my combustion chambers. Yeah for awhile I was 13psi with the stock fuel pump and unknow a/f ratio. But when I ran 20-18psi it was 12:1 all the way to read line. Oh well guess I'll have to put those +1mm pistons in there that I've been eye balling. For 24psi should I replace the rods also or not mess with that. I am most defiantely doing forged +1mm pistons, apr head studs, apr rod botls, but would like not having to put much more money into the bottom end.
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Well I took my head off to sell it and was looking at my cylinder walls and was thinking wow they look good intill I got to no.4 http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=9294 I have no idea on bottom ends. So what do those marks on cylinder wall mean. And on no. 6 cylinder it looks like I have little dents in the outer rim of the piston. I was debating if I should rebuild the bottom end so this might just presuade me. I know I should for the most realiabity but costs are beginning to get up there so I need to save some money somewhere. Thanks for you input.
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I would look at the simpler things first before going into indepth stuff. I would remove the spark plugs and put new ones in and new spark plug wires. Especially if its been atleast a year since last time they were replaced. It either sounds like spark plug wires have been put on wrong or they came apart inside of the boots. The spark timing is 1-5-3-6-2-4 rotating counter-clockwise
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With vacuum disconnected I ran 40psi and got a 12:1 a/f ratio. You also need to adjust your afm 18 teeth. If you do not know what I mean please do a search it has been discussed many times. Enjoy the boost.
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Need some oppinions, if this is a good deal (OMG am I turning ricer??)
Thumper replied to a topic in Non Tech Board
The main difference is the n/a motor does not have oil piston squirters. A few people have installed them into a n/a motor but few have met with success. http://www.se-r.net/car_info/de_det_differences.html Its a great website that has lots of useful info. Good luck. -
That is what we need. How about anytime a newb signs up to hybridz, they would have to watch it before they could post. We could even add a few most asked questions. All in favor say "search button"
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Need some oppinions, if this is a good deal (OMG am I turning ricer??)
Thumper replied to a topic in Non Tech Board
I had a 91 sentra se-r as my first car. I owned it for 5yrs. N/A stock j-spec engine (10:1 compression) I ran a 14.2 This was stripped and few other goodies. With 75 shot of nitrous I ran 13.1@109 I loved the car but wanted to go to rear wheel drive. I would buy a sentra for a daily driver anyday. But do not turbocharge the n/a motor they ARE different. If you want a turbo then get the bluebird motor. All with an intercooler and boost controller you can put out about 250hp. Hope this helps. -
Nice hybridgt. Only problem I see (other than all the chevy guys being pissed off at you) is the fox body's lack of traction. Unless they've taken care of that then its just another powerful mustang but not fast.
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Nice colors mike. You now me though i'd do the hood and spoiler in carbon fiber. The blue strip looks good. I think a light blue like this would be better though.
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Yeah that car is so ghetto, sheesh how could he drive that. (look at sig) I have been on both sides of this argument. I can understand that sometimes you can not make every customer happy, but when it becomes multiply customers over a short period (1-2yrs) then it might not be the customers it might be you. Furthermore some of these alleged dealings were not minor mistakes or cheap mistakes, they were expensive and fairly large easily avoidable mistakes. But then again these are alleged complaints (although jason did reply to them, so they seem valid), and there is no way to find out what really happened.
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www.yahoo.com You can find anything about any car there. SERIOUSLY though for some other car but still relavent information i'd look at www.miata.net, www.se-r.net, but for zcar specific I like http://zhome.com/ .
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Any v8 that does need to be Fixed Or Repaired Daily. If I was going to put a v8 in a z i'd either go with the more common lt-1 motor for good power with good technical support, or the less traveled path the ford 302 with a procharger for a more uniqueness. Good luck but don't forget to add $2k and 3 months to any planning you do.
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hmmmm:confused2 how is that a myth Oh yeah the if you get your hot wheels car going 70mph the wheels will fall off myth:twisted: Yeah that one. Good show though if your bored. I love the bullistics(sp) jelly