Thumper

Hey its not christmas yet no opening presents b4 christmas morning. Put it back in the box wrap it up and look surprised when you open it up christmas. Atleast thats what I do. Looking good. Let me know if you need my car manual to set up the distributor shaft and such.

I am not ready to do a downpipe just yet. My plans are still to transplant this engine into an earlier z. Although it prob won't be with the 240z I have now. So when I get it into the new z I will defiantely do it. But I agree with drax it doesn't help as much as it would if you had a t3/t4 with a 3" outlet. Although two 3" 60 degree bends are much better than two 2.25"-2.5" 90 degree bends.

Yeah my car is completely stripped. It has no dash no plastic at all in the car. Only a aftermarket tach, boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, and a driver seat. It weighed 2525 the first time I weighed it but I think the scale was off since we just had lots of rain. The second time it read 2580lbs. My 60ft times were in between a 1.998 thru 2.010.

Thanks for the replys I have decided to take your guys advice and run the 3.545. I will still be installing the na 5-sp because I like the gear spacing in the na 5-sd over the t5. I will also be installing my 370cc injectors and turning up the boost alittle bit more:twisted: so I'll let you know how I like the combo next time I take it to the track. Thanks for the advice. Ted

I forgot to mention I will be installing a na 5-spd in this car at the same time no matter what. Right now my trap rpm's should be a 5246. If I install a 3.9 with my na 5-spd then I will be at 5771. So I'm still in the meat of my power band with another 500 rpms to go. I believe that I have read that scottieGNZ is a believer of the lower gear ratio the faster you will go. Others I've talked to say higher is better. So what do you guys think? TIA

13.2 @ 103mph specs at bottom only difference was I had no intercooler and I was at 10psi. Plus I had a killer 60ft of a 1.998 on 225/50 street tires.

I am getting some spinnage from my 225/50's so I am looking to upgrade to alittle wider tire. My questions is will 245/50's fit on the stock turbo rim. I believe the rim is 6.5" wide and from what I read its possible but I will have lots of tire bulgeing(sp). TIA Ted

I asked a similar question before but I did not get the type of responses that I wanted so I decided too reword my question and try again. Basically I have a 3.9 rear diff at my house. My 3.545 is making all kinds of noises. So I am wondering in a drag race will it be better to install another 3.545 or 3.9 rear end. My car should be running a 12.9 @105mph. My tires are 225/50 on the stock turbo rims. Thanks for you time. EDIT: I will also be installing a na 5-spd no matter what. Ted

Right now I have a 3.545. I can get a 3.9 or a 3.545 for the same price. I am leaning towards another 3.545 so that I can stay in each gear longer and hold the boost. And the 3.9 gear will put me near my redline in 4th gear in the qt mile. On the other hand it will increase torque to the wheels by 11%. Anyother suggestions? TIA

Well my rear differential has been making noise for awhile now and tonight it went boom. So I am faced with buying a junkyard rear diff. I unfortantely do not have the money for the 3.7lsd so I will be buying either a 3.545 or a 3.9. I will also be installing a 280zx NA 5-spd tranny. So with this gear ration and an estimate qt time of 12.9 @ 105mph. What rear end would you run. My tires are 225/50/r15 on stock rims but one day will be upgraded to 245/50/r15. TIA Ted

I am thinking about getting the hks ssqv. I will have it vented to the atmosphere. I am trying to compare it to my 1g dsm bov. I know it will not leak at idle but I am unsure if it will fix the partial throttle opening of the bov. Basically when I accelerate slowly and the turbo starts to build boost the bov sees higher boost in the pipe than in the intake manifold so it opens up. Can anybody confirm if the hks has this problem also or if it does not have this problem. TIA Ted

Well good new bad news situation. I fixed the big problem it will now boost 14psi spike then drop down to 10-11 psi (i'll explain in a bit). Plus the power is as smooth as before the intercooler, but with alittle less power on the the topend,. The problem I had eariler was not a boost leak but an electrical problem. It was my ecu connections. Basically the wires are so worn that their center metal wire is showing and if you move it one way it runs crappy and if you move it another it runs normal. So I have to go the junkyard and try to find some nice ecu connections. My problem I have now with the boost is if I floor it first and go through all the gears 1-4 it will read 10-11psi. If I nail it in second it will read 10-11psi. But if I floor it in 3rd or 4th gear it will go up to 14psi and the drop down to 11-12psi by 4k. I unhooked my boost controller once and it when to 18psi b4 I shut it down:twisted: . I have also used two different boost controllers and both are doing the same thing. The boost gauge flucuates at 10-11 while i'm driving. UPDATE!!! I am 99% sure I found the problem. On one of my runs my bov recirculation tube blew off. After that while at full throttle I would here the blow-off vavle. So what was happening is the my blow-off valve is not holding the higher boost. And yes I have crushed the top of my bov very far might even be too far. I am not 100% sure that its the blow-off valve because I don't have time or money to weld a plate too seal the blow-off valve hole. My friend has order a welder and should get it on wednesday so I guess I will just have to borrow his brand new toy. Well time for me to invest in a new bov. I thinking the hks ssqv. Anybody have a bov that they want to get rid of, like real cheap, like free. Ted

I'm using the stock turbo boot with a metal aftermarket intake pipe. The ring is still there and it is still very firm. I am pretty sure it is not collapseing. Thanks anywayz. I'm on the way out too put it back together. I just finished redoing some of the connections. Hopefully it will do the trick.

Thanks for your replys. I do not think it is a clogged intercooler or pipe because the the boost goes to 7psi and then slowly drops. Also the car runs rough while it does this. So the air getting measured at the afm is not reaching the combustion chamber. If it was just a clogged intercooler then the car would run like it was at 4psi but not rough. I will be getting a stethescope today and checking for leaks. Also I am going to redo some of my pipe connections. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks.

Also my DIY MBC is hooked up in the stock location and I just cleaned it. TIA

I just finished installing an intercooler into my car. Now the car is running like crap. I have 2" piping but tight 90 degree turns. Before I installed the intercooler I was boosting 10-10.5 psi. Now it will go to about 6-7psi and then drop to 4psi. Right when it hits 6psi it starts to run rough. It does the exact same thing in all the gears. I lowered the spark plug gap to .030" but it didn't help. It is now back to .045". I have rechecked and rechecked all of my connections. I have done the carb cleaner at idle leak test and no leaks. Does this sound like an air leak or ignition problem? I'm leaning towards air leak because it ran perfect b4 I did the install. Any suggestions on how to test for a leak? TIA

bastaad525 and cygnusx1 one thing your are forgetting is that you both have different turbos than each other. The turbos make boost at diff times and have diff efficiency's. So that could be the reason cygnusx1's turbo glows and bast's doesn't. I will be getting to the dyno withing the next week or so probably with 370cc injectors and stock fuel pump. Hopeing to get 12-14psi. Also I want to try to keep it above 11:1 and below 13:1 I know know good luck but a man can dream right Ted

Thanks for your reply gexgexgexgex. I am planning on getting the Walbrou 255 hp fuel pump. I have found it for $115 shipped, but the only problem is I don't have $115 That is going to be my next investment but intill then i'm stuck with the stock fuel pump. So what does everyone else think about the stock injectors, dump them or keep them? Stock fuel pump=250hp? TIA

I just finished my intercooler install and was wondering if I should put in my 370cc injectors. The only problem is I have a stock fuel pump. I am about to rewire it with 10 gauge wire and a new relay. So what injectors should I have in there intill I get a new fuel pump? On a side note I have read that the stock fuel pump once rewired should be able to handle 250hp is this true? TIA Ted Schmidt P.S. 12's here I come

I had that picture as my background for awhile. I am just glad that the car didn't hit any of the houses. This was done on a populated residential street with houses everywhere so it could have been alot worse. I feel sorry for the family's for they will probably never know what happened that night.

It is more than likely your alternator. Also your battery is also probably bad. If a car battery is completly drained then more than likely it will not hold a charge afterwards. On a side note my car at idle with no alt belt on (a.k.a. alternator not on) my voltage at idle was 11-12volts.

With oil coming out of the pcv and the valve cover breather I would say it is a blown piston ring or two. I would do a compression test asap. Hope this helps.

Just looked on ebay and saw you can get the hp kit for #321.00 plust 15 shipping and handling. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7938110482&category=33590 I have heard of a few people ordering these kits with success but as bartman pointed out make sure you read up on progressive vs linear springs.

Damn that sucks. Anyother takers So back to the original question.

Dang fusible links. Well I found a blown fusible link and a couple of loose connections so I decided to build a new fuse box. I used a 91 sentra fuse board with "REAL" fuses built into it. Everything works great now. Just wanted to give you guys an update and say thanks for your help.