Thumper

I'd rather have a 4 bay shop then all the heated floors, fans, tile, etc... You can never go wrong with lots and lots of room.

If its non-turbo then yes. If its the turbo model then no. On the turbo it is located next to ignition coil. Usually connected to the coil bracket. If my memory serves me correctly on the n/a model it is bolted to the side of the distributor. Good luck

I had the same problem. It was the ignition module/ power transitor. $157 at nissan. Hope this helps.

I am about to upgrade to MSnS and was wondering do I need to use the stock power transitor to fire my msd 6a. I know moby never mentions one but he does mention the condensor which I have and will use. Someone else mentioned they had a problem with a module. Not sure if they were talking about the hei module or the stock ignition control module. If I do not need the power transitor it will save me $125. So thanks for your time. Ted

Lately I have had a speratic miss will driving and once in awhile the car has died and would not start. But when I go back to it 30 minutes later it will start. I think I have traced the problem to a faulty power transistor. Before I shell out the $150 that the dealer wants I would like to be 200% sure though. The only symptom I have that other people have not had is during the 30 minutes the car would not start I could connect the power wire (black/white) while the other wire was already connected to the transistor and the coil would fire. But then when I would try to start the car the coil would not fire. My fuel pump primes and my injectors fire so its not the EFI relay. Let me know if you think it is the transistor if not then what else should I check. Thanks for you time. Ted

I think it is a toy car. Look at the angle of the camera and how it focused.

nm got it

k stuck on number 13 anybody?

ditto, so anybody up for alittle cheating:twisted:

83' 280zx completely stripped weighs either 2475 or 2545 depending on what scale I go to. Hopping to get my z around that weight with full interior.

bump?

Thanks for the info. I am going to make these tires my drag only tires. Only time I will drive on the street with them if I'm going to and from the track or if I plan to go to a local car meet where I mind find myself too tempted:twisted:. I think i'm going to go with 26.1" tire just so that I will not have to modify anything to put them on. Plust it will be about 3-5lbs lightyer:-D Ted

Top 1 thing you'll never hear a newbie say! 1. Where is the search button?

Ouch:shock: I'd say chaulk up one sacrifice to the car deitys. As far as the hand goes pain is what lets us know we are still alive. As far as the pictures goes pitchin a wood with a beautiful girl on your lap lets us know we are still straight. Unless you are thinking about your z then your just obessed like me.

Come on you guys all know you want some of these. I already have some on order for the ghetto beast:)

There is 280z in a local junkyard where I live that has one on it. Its black and fairly good condition. Next time i'm there I can take a look if your interested in a used one.

delete

I am thinking about buying some diamond 15x8 4x4.5 with 4"bs rims. I want to mount a 275 bfgoodrich drag radial tire on them. My question is should I get 50's series or 60's series tire. The 50's would be 26.1" and the 60's would be 28". My car could always use more gearing especially since I have a 3.545 and tight power band. Also the added height will help the tire fit on the 8" rim. I do not have speedo so I am not worried about that. My real concern would be the added weight and rubbing on the strut. If need be I would add flares or cut my wheel wells so that is not an issue. Let me know what you think. Thanks Ted Schmidt

i got the 225/60 but will soon be putting 235/60 drag radials on. I want the taller tire so it will lower my final drive ratio. I don't have a speedo so I do not care if its messes it up. The g-force sport 225/60 on 10-12 psi are ok but now that i'm running 18psi its no fun on the street.

Sorry I was in a rush to type it so no details. When I did the compression test all cylinders showed the same psi within 5psi. I also did them mutliple times. Actually the numbers were 90psi on the first gauge and 105 on the second gauge. On mikes (on3go's), a week old motor, got 75psi on the first gauge on all six cylinders. As far as I can tell the valve cover gasket only leaks in the front passenger side area right above the power steering bracket or alternator. But when I dynoed the car I did notice blue smoke come off of my exhaust manifold from an unknown source after a pull. I do not see a valve cover leak or any other leak in that area. Has anyone else noticed what bastaad525 says about even a rebuilt engine has a small amout of blow-by. Thanks for your time. Ted Schmidt

When I dynoed my car I found out my valve cover gasket is leaking and on the exhaust manifold side I have some blue smoke that rises after a pull. The valve cover gasket is fairly new but i'm going to try and replace it anyways, making sure I remove all old gasket material. I have already replaced my pcv valve just incase. I think it is either blow-by from piston rings or a blown head gasket with a bad valve cover gasket. I did a compression test and it was 75psi on one gauge but 105 on another. Both gauges are in question of accuracy. I also checked my oil and there is no water on the dipstick or when I drained it. So what do you guys think blown HQ, piston rings, or just a bad valve cover gasket. Thanks for your help. Ted

When I ran 13lbs of boost I had mine gapped to .05" Now that I am running 18lbs I lowered it to .045" to make sure I have good spark. I run a msd6al with blaster 2 coil. On my na sentra I run .06" with a msd6a and blaster ss coil, but had to go down to .035" when I ran a 100 shot. Hope this helps

Are u trying to compete with me on the ugliest 280zx. Alittle out of focus but I think I still hold the title. I second other peoples responses get rid of the car. I wouldn't keep my ghetto beast even if I was planning a complete resto like yours. I know there is rust hidden in every weld and metal piece on my car. Plus my frame is most likely bent. But if your frame is straight and your unibody is not rusted like mine then its possible. Good luck on whatever decision you make. Ted

A couple of months ago I switched from the t-5 to na 5-spd. I never had problems with the t5 but then again I was only making 280lb-tq. The main reason I switched is I like the na gear spacing better. Also it is slightly lighter (5-10lbs). I am now putting down 400lb-tq and shift very quickly (no open throttle shifts) and have yet to have a problem. I think the na is the better transmission out of the two. Only prob was the long throw. So I made a custom short shifter and its all good now. Hope this helps

Here are my dyno graphs. My mods are in my sig. There are two runs on each page. One page shows max torque and the other shows max horsepower. The lighter line is hard too see but it is at the lower boost setting. Although less power it does not have the big dip in power at 4500 rpms like the high boost setting. My last graph shows my boost graph and a/f ratio. My a/f at first was 11:1 so I lowered my fuel pressure to get it between 12:1-11.5:1. I also found out i've been shifting about 1000 rpms to late in 2nd and 3rd so this should help alittle bit at the track.