SleeperZ

Check fuel pressure and the pressure regulator - most likely cause, unless you idle the engine too much, and idle mixture is way off. If fuel pressure is OK, your AFM may be jacked, and you might be able to adjust it. But check fuel pressure first.

Craazy man! That is some goofy stuff with the faucets coming out of the bumper. And what a bizarre wheel style with the tires narrower than the rims...hope they don't have sharp curbs in Japan.

Not sure I know what a 50 trim is in a TO4B. The "B" series is designated with a letter, like H or V (that's what I have). That said, if you are after throttle response, you might consider a stock turbine (again, what I run) instead of stage 3...my boost comes on about 2700-2800 or so. And unless you get a different cam, you probably won't like spinning it to 6200. If you take a look at my dyno graph (in my personal gallery, running stock head and cam), I'm seriously compromised at that rpm. Peak torque way down low, peak hp around 5000, the hp curve is very flat, and is falling by 6000 - I can definitely feel the lack of torque up there. Of course you could improve a bit on that, but you may lose the throttle response down low. Good luck representing on the auto-x course. I don't think you'll have an easy time keeping up the torque through the braking and turning. I have a hard enough time on a tight road course, moving about 35-50 mph to a top of 90-100 mph.

I have to agree with this. I am using a small hybrid turbo, stock turbine, TO4B with a Vtrim compressor. It bolts on, no spacer, only slight modifications to the intake pipe to fit stock stuff. And with the right bolts ons, I run pretty well.

Wow, that sucks. Is the IC ok??

It is necessary to use the search function. Also you need to be more specific with what you mean by "go turbo". There is tons of info in previous posts here, so happy reading.

And if you are new to EFI, don't jump right into this swap. Install the factory system and get that going. Troubleshoot it and otherwise get to know EFI.

The reason you don't go bigger than 3" is partly because pipes 3-1/2" and larger are harder to source and they are hard to fit without ground clearance issues. Past 3" is also of minimal benefit, unless you want to push more than 450-500hp.

Keep searching. You are not asking anything new - we've recently discussed differences in Z31 ECUs, harnesses and wiring. Here are two to start on. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=25962 http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=26898

Drag radials. See signature.

What really matters (MO) is the temperature measured is consistant with the actual temperature of the air, not necessarily be the actual temperature. It would be ok to measure 40 degrees if your air was actually 50 degrees if when your air temperature rose to 60 degrees, you measured 50 degrees. So the best place to put the sensor may indeed be before the tb if you do have a heat soak issue in your manifold that affected the sensor. You want a fast and precise response from the sensor when the air temperature changes, and absolute accuracy is not important - it can be calibrated out.

You are right, with the turbo it will be very quiet. It may be a bit slower as well, though, as exhaust restriction increases lag and limits top end.

You won't EVER have to worry about a straight 6 sounding like a Honduh - it's an inline 4 thing.

Thanks for posting the pictures. That car is really cool. Makes me laugh that you drop nearly a liter of displacement to go faster.

And even in a non-turbo car, you want to measure the temperature as close to the cylinders as possible; my opinion is you want the sensor in the intake manifold.

At less than full throttle conditions, it reduces the voltage to the fuel pump to make it quieter.

Correct, fuel pump modulator. You don't need it.

Nice run Scotty! Love to see representation from the factory ECU folks!

Sounds good to me. Should run ok, congrats and good luck.

Those numbers sound perfectly reasonable. 7 psi factory boost, and I've never heard of a popoff venting under 9 psi. Really, 1 to 1.5 psi difference in one engine to another is quite common. So crank up the boost!

Maybe not the cheapest route (I think mine is of course ), but you are right. Most of the manufacturers of the "piggyback" stuff support the Z31, so it should function similarly with an L28 using the Z31 EFI.

I wonder what the curve, or A/F ratios, for Z31 vs. 280ZXT ECCS would look like on a dyno. I got a much improved throttle response from the Z31 vs. my old 280ZXT ECCS - same ignition timing, same injectors and fuel system, same everything. I didn't dyno the difference, but it felt quicker, ran much smoother, and my fuel mileage improved by nearly 25% (from 21-22 to 27). To me, that's an upgrade, and it cost about $100. Of course once the Z31 ECCS is up and running, tuning is another advantage for me. I was able to retain all the driveability benefits after adding the 370cc injectors, and this machine feels incredible on throttle.

I won't hammer you. I think you left out the load - that is what holds both back equally. You have more air/fuel per stroke on the larger engine. The bigger engine may not rev as high, but it will get to it's redline faster than the smaller motor will read the same rpm. HP is torque multiplied by rpm. Stroker has more torque. It will accelerate faster. Obviously if you want to take advantage of the smaller engine and higher redline, gear it lower. Then you've reduced the load, and the smaller engine may accelerate the same or even more than the larger.