SleeperZ

That looks very nice!

Are you talking about Jim Wolf Technology (JWT)? If you are running less than 300hp, you don't need to fork over the $1000 or so. You can do that on a factory system with minimal tuning. Just get a Bosch pump or a high pressure Walbro, install the I/C and turn up the boost.

Factory EFI. Simplest, cheapest. It's what I use.

That's a confusing question. Can you specify how much power you want to make, what base fuel pressure you normally run, and how much boost you intend to push? To me, those are the important parameters for pump specification. The type of EFI or whether it's intercooled don't have anything to do with the pump.

Lol! Congratulations, I'm glad things are settling down for you.

If you want complete bolt-on compatibility, the GN compressor machined to fit the stock T3 compressor is the only way I know of. I know a local guy who did that, but truly, it's not that much of an upgrade over stock. I bought my turbo from Jim Cook Racing, and it was a bolt on in nearly every sense. The only mods I had to do on a stock system was modify the turbo intake, as it was about 3/8" bigger diameter - I just trimmed the stock piece up, and reclamped it. The J-pipe still fit the outlet, but I had to cut about 1/2" off J-pipe end to the turbo outlet so it would fit the mount (the compressor is bigger in diameter than stock by that much). Then I had to re-drill the mounting for the stock wastegate actuator as the bolt pattern on the TO4 housing was different. I didn't think the mods were that big a deal for what I got. The turbo acts like stock with stock boost, but is much more efficient at elevated boost levels.

They were bad last year in the summer - bad drought. This year the drought seems to have struck in the fall; it's still quite warm here, and extremely dry, just like California.

Only thing I can think of is give it a good tune (plugs, check wires), and replace all the gaskets.

I can see the smoke from my office. It's quite spectacular.

Thanks, I'm thinking you are probably right. My engine might get really weird when I slap on my turbo cam without changing the turbo...but I already have the head built up, and no funds for a new turbo.

I think the trim designations of RS, ES and GLS mean: RS - real slow ES - extra slow GLS - goes less slow

Drax - TO4B trims are designated by letters. I am running a V trim, others run S or H. It's the TO4E compressors that reference trim with 50 or 57 or 60.

I don't understand what you mean by "injector caps". Are you talking about the plastic tips over the pintles? They will have virtually no effect on how your car runs except if they are causing a vacuum leak. Have you verified that all the injectors are firing by listening to them with a screwdriver tip? If they are, you may have just created a bad vacuum leak. Just replace the o-rings at the injector tip in that case.

Wow, if that spools, it should be a monster! If you are able to specify an A/R on the turbine, make it small... 8)

Sounds like a good choice. Most L28ET people go with a 0.63 a/r turbine, stage III or V. The E compressors come in various trims, all of which seem to work well. The best one for me, on paper at least, is the 50 trim.

Well my experience is different. My stock T3 never spooled any faster than my T3/TO4B, the biggest difference came with my 3" exhaust. The turbine is 90% of the mass of the moving parts of the turbo, and it is made of steel. The compressor wheel is made of aluminum and is very light, relatively speaking. That is why the biggest factor in how a turbo spools up is the turbine and the turbine housing a/r.

That depends on the efficiency of the IC and the incoming temperature from the turbo. Ideally you like to get the intake air to 10-20 degrees over ambient; with an air/water unit using ice, you can cool the intake air below ambient.

Both? Stage III is a T3 turbine spec, 60-1 is a TO4B wheel. More information please, like intended use, hp goals, which engine....

The injectors don't care what angle the plugs come out - they spray in a conical pattern. Make sure you didn't break the wires, it's easy enough to listen to them to determine if they are activating.

I don't use IM anymore. You can PM me, and in some recent threads I have described my setup in detail. Check out this one: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=26831&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I personally love the sound of an n/a L28 with triples, header and a cam. It was a major factor in my original purchase of a Z. Of course I went turbo with it, and it sounds pretty good, but I'll always love that WOT sound of the n/a L28.

Nearly all turbos are oil cooled. Water cooling is nice, a bit of extra work, but can help your turbo last longer. The TO4 you mention has an enormous turbine housing, and you will probably not get it to spool up on you. The stock T3 turbine has an A/R of 0.63, and most folks using a TO4 on a L28 use an A/R of 0.58. Also it will not bolt up without an adapter - then you have to custom fit the intake plumbing, make a new exhaust downpipe and plumb a wastegate to make it all work. It sounds like you may be better off with a stock T3 or a hybrid T3/TO4. Have you read Corky Bell's book "Maximum Boost"? That is a very good starting point if you are unfamiliar with turbocharging.

That car is really something. Not being a V8'r, I can't speculate on 1500hp n/a, but it sure sounds like a lot, considering seeing that monster twin-turbo'd V8 GN spin (only) 1000hp on the dyno. 15:1 compression is not extremely streetable either - the cam listed has got to be a monster breather, and a high-rpm n/a cam to flow that must turn pretty fast; I wouldn't think it'd idle well. Lol, silicone boy.

What do you mean the thermostat is on the inlet? It will not work there. Also the coolant exiting the thermostat should be only slightly warmer than the thermostat setting, probably 85C but maybe 93-94 is ok - I've never bothered to measure except using my dash temperature gauge. Then I never see it higher than 82C unless it's hot and my radiator heat soaks.