SleeperZ

255 is the flow rating, and I believe it will only flow 255 liters/hour at 25-30 psi. At L28ET boost levels (50-60 psi fuel pressure), the pump is only good for 160-200 liters/hour. That's still enough for 400-450 hp. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU GET THE HIGH PRESSURE VERSION OF THE 255! The regular pump poops out bad at 50-60 psi fuel pressure.

Something like 1/4" or 7/64" should work. It's one size larger than the smallest, which is 3/16" or 1/8". Sorry, don't know for sure, but I think it's smaller than the 5/16" fuel line. 7/16" is the size of the fuel pump inlet hose.

I hear you on the n/a motor. When I rebuilt mine, it never smoked past startup, and used no oil.

I am not an expert in determining what will fit without a spacer, but I recall a conversation with ScottyMIZ last year where he got a TO4E turbo to fit without a spacer. It was a 0.50 A/R housing, and I don't know if it was an "E" or a "B". As someone else added, a 0.60 A/R will not fit.

Yes, Hondas run 10:1 turbocharged because they have to. And lots of applications run 8.5:1 compression ratios and do just fine. The Supras run 8.5:1 as well as the Skylines. But a lot of that has to do with head design as well, and the Hondas MUST run intercoolers to run more than 6 psi boost. If you don't care much for off-boost response, lower compession is better, as you don't have as much heating of the mixture from compression inside the cylinder. The power potential is greater with the factory 7.4:1 compression ratio, and with a T3 turbine, lag or off-boost response is not an issue. If I ever need to build up a L28ET, I may bump it to 8.0:1, but I'm just happy as a clam with 7.4

Good move.

That really sucks Jersey. The thing I'm wondering is why Majestic feels running a B housing is necessary for a TO4E wheel. If, or when, I upgrade my turbo to a TO4E, I will use the housing the wheel was designed for.

The re-wiring will not affect your fuel pressure, and neither will the 5/16" line. The pump with standard wiring will dead-head at 70+ psi. The stock fuel lines are 5/16", supply and return, and that's what I'm running with double the stock horsepower. If your vacuum line (manifold reference) is attached to your regulator when you measure the pressure, 29 psi is right on the stock value. To check baseline, which should be 36, unhook and plug the line (not the port) at the regulator.

I don't even like driving in the rain...

Here's the short answer. Propane injection is for turbo diesels, N20 is for gassers. And here's the real difference. Propane is a fuel, and since diesel engines have no problems getting air with a turbo, adding fuel will get you power. Since the diesel injection pump is a real PITA to alter, propane, being very high octane, is cheap to inject for insane power. N2O, on the other hand, is an oxidizer with the added benefit of having nitrogen as a buffer. It will not dissociate until the fuel is ignited in the combustion chamber. So it cools the intake charge, provides a dense oxygen source, and, with added fuel, will make insane power in a gasoline engine.

I think rags meant taller like a 3.90 or 3.54....might be easier on the axles too.

No, I don't believe so. My CF clutch was working perfectly with full travel. The ClutchMasters PP and disc I'm running now just has less travel, so I had to adjust the pedal closer to the floor to release at the same spot. The pedal effort is about the same, so I'm thinking the CF has greater pressure combined with a longer throw. It does have those funky weights on the diaphragm to increase pressure at higher RPM...

Lol! Nice job.

That looks like a good street turbo, but I'd try to find out which turbine wheel it has, and if the outlet flange is designed for external or internal wastegate.

Bump! I know someone has a useful opinion here...anyone?

Not sure if they are the cheapest, but they have a large selection... http://www.turbohoses.com/Couplers.htm

I doubt my cylinders are worn, and I don't seem to go through much oil. I also always torque my plugs on re-install. The oil on the threads just seems to be the way things are. The plug tips are always fine; there is certainly not enough oil to foul them.

Good question. My plugs always seem to have a bit of oil on the threads as well. The engine I'm running is practically new, with compression differing less than 1 psi across all 6 cylinders.

I made a steel strap attached to the cross member over the nose of my R200, accompanied with a new factory rubber mount. I put too much clearance in the strap, and the nose of the diff pounded some more clearance into it. The factory mount survived though, and now, in addition to the strap, I have stretched a 3/16" steel cable between the old limiting strap mounts, wrapped once around the bottom. There is now a nice compliant yet solid restraint on the diff nose. Unfortunately I still have a nasty vibration under heavy torque, and I found the problem. The driveshaft is hitting my driveshaft loop. I am assuming the compliance is now coming from the transmission mounts, but the loop is really close to the shaft, about 3/8" on the top right. I will be moving the mount for the driveshaft loop to get more clearance on the right. Questions: How much movement should be tolerated? Anyone heard of urethane tranny crossmember bushings? Tranny mount? Anyone had this issue before? This is the only stock mount that has not received my attention. I plan to run at the strip tonight, and I think I will remove the top half of the loop - I'm hoping the driveshaft is not weakened...there is a circle worn around it, but I will not remove the bottom half of the loop. And if the shaft breaks on me, it should only beat up the tunnel, and not launch me off the track -

Read this first. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24042 Just swap the engine. Your drivetrain will be fine.

Yeah, my stock headed motor just doesn't like spinning past 6000. Maybe this winter I'll have the cash and opportunity to get my turbo cam/rebuilt P90 back on the F54....

I bought them for our Subaru wagon. They do not seem to dust, the braking is OK, I can't glow about them, but they do seem to function.