SleeperZ

If you are looking to water inject a turbo engine, you'll need a better pump than a windshield washer pump. You will have to overcome the boost pressure to inject the water. Otherwise you can inject before the turbo, but that is not recommended, as I hear it can damage the compressor (it is spinning pretty fast to be pelting it with rain).

BTW, boost CREEP is different from boost SPIKE. Spiking is the boost level initially overshooting your setpoint on throttle application, then settling to a constant level. Creeping is the boost growing with increasing RPM, and is caused by too small of a wastegate (or too low of a boost setting ).

I would think this should measure air temperature INSIDE the manifold?

The laws may have changed from 20 years ago, but my Grandfather bought a Colorado pickup (1971 Chevy) and tried to register it in California. They insisted in adding all the extra CA emissions equipment the federal model didn't have. And of course it wouldn't run right, they couldn't tune it, my Grandfather got sick of paying people to try, and got rid of the truck.

That's exactly what it does. You can get that same resistor at Radio Shack for $0.20 or so. To figure out the value, look at the FSM testing procedure for the temp sensor, and pick a resistance value off the temperature chart for the sensor representing 160*F or so (assuming a 180*F thermostat). I doubt it will net 20hp as he says, and it may not work at all, but that's all the guy is selling, a $0.20 resistor at a 5000% markup.

Bump! I know there are many folks running 12s with a 5 speed. Does the problem people have with Centerforce more related to the disc? Aren't most pressure plates made of similar materials? I'm thinking I like the travel of the CF pressure plate, and if the material is the same, it should clamp a puck style clutch material better than a stock pressure plate. AFAIK, the clutch is the main issue with the turbo L28 over 400 hp...

Jersey, regarding the 60-1, that is an older design wheel that originally was fit to a TO4B housing. I don't know what changes (especially efficiency) when that wheel is fit to a newer TO4E housing. I should have been more specific - when I say TO4E, I mean wheel and housing. Any trim seems to work ok for a Z motor, and I've always liked (on paper) how the 50 trim works. I am, however, keeping my ears open for what works well in the REAL WORLD, especially at my altitude.

Here's my perspective on turbos, FWIW. The compressor has little to no effect on spool up; that is almost all due to the turbine and exhaust restriction. I was partially kidding about going to a stage 5, as the spool up is a bit slower, but the top end is wide open. Perhaps stage 5 is a better choice with a cam shaft and a higher rev limit, but for street and stock motors, the stage 3 should be good, and you will keep most of your response. I don't know how pricing is. And again, for a streetable car, you may also be better off with a TO4E compressor than the 60-1, although people have had excellent results with the 60-1. I base my comments only on my review of the compressor maps, and for the 350-450 hp range, the TO4E compressor is more efficient (less intercooler load, cooler intake charge temp) than the 60-1. For all-out flow, the 60-1 is superior, but you pay a price with extra heat. The 0.63 a/r on the hot side is as close to ideal as you can get with a T3.

Again, I think the Z31 with MAF is a good choice, for turbo or n/a. Non-turbo applications are great as you use turbo injectors, and you are unlikely to max out the duty cycle on those! I had to go to larger ones on my turbo application.

Sorry, i don't have the measurement, but it's hard to find a fan that will squeeze in there. The only way I could fit my Permacool fan was to offset it to the left, to avoid the dampener. Edit: Thinking more about it, I had less clearance from the waterpump pully, and my fan barely clears the dampener. I have a 4 row MSA radiator. I hope I've not misled you.

Sounds like the turbo would kick a$$, jersey. Of course the stage 3 turbine is still considered very streetable, maybe you should move up to a stage 5 - you wouldn't want any exhaust restriction would you? And you might need to upgrade your fuel system, or turn down the boost, as that turbo will be flowing lots more air.

The n/a distributor.

It seems to me that even if you disable the AWD diff in the RB26 6 speed tranny, you are still carrying a lot of extra weight in the unneeded transfer case....

550 CFM is good to about 350 - 370 HP, about where I am now.

Don't know about the fittings, stock ZX uses 7/16" ID inlet and 5/16" ID outlet hoses. I used 10 gauge, but I would go no lighter than 12.

$600 is a deal for a running turbo car, regardless (almost) of the condition. I spent $750 for mine, an '82 2+2 that had been bent sideways around a tree. I almost died from the exhaust coming in the 2" gap in the rear hatch driving it home. If the engine sounds good and makes power, it's a good deal. You might pull the plugs and do a compression test, maybe pull the valve cover and check for cam wear. Chances are if it's got less than 150k miles, you have no worries. My first engine had 180k miles, and I ran 13s with it.

Appreciate the reminder. I finally got some time to work the adjustment - I had to adjust the pedal about 1/2" at the stop to get the clutch release close to the floor. Does anyone have any opinions on my clutch setup ideas? When I renew the clutch, I'm thinking about just getting the ACT modified street disc, but use the Centerforce PP. This CM stage 4 pressure plate has about the same pedal effort as the Centerforce PP, but about 40% less throw, so I'm thinking the clamping force is not as much. I could also get a possibly smoother engagement with more pedal travel, not sure if this a good thing....

Depends on what you want to do. If you can handle wiring, do a factory Z31 ECU and MAF swap, I'm having tremendous luck with mine. I even am running strong and efficiently with 370cc injectors (40% larger than stock) - I just passed the CO emissions test without an adjustment. I haven't heard the latest on doing a straight MAF to AFM conversion. I know someone (pallnet?) was making a map circuit to convert it to the factory 280XT ECU...

When I wired in my '82 turbo stuff initially I kept all that crap, and it ran fine. On the second revision, I ripped it all out, keeping the turbo manifold and all the valves on it, teed off. The third revision I replaced the manifold with an N42, no EGR, and the big throat Weber TB. In no case did I ever have any idling or driveability issues. The original stuff automaticaly controlled the idle and after I ripped all the vacuum valves out, I just set the stop on the stock throttle body to adjust idle, and now the Weber has an air bypass to adjust the idle. Not sure I understand the push to make it work.

I hear that. I have an AEM regulator, it leaks down completely in about 2 minutes. I don't mind too much; if I want the car to start immediately I have to let the pump run for 10 seconds or so to pressurize.

Simply unbelievable! Nice work! I can't wait to see the road test results.

I'm curious how you plumbed the regulator. Aeromotive EFI plumbing diagrams are the same as how the factory plumbed the stock regulator and injectors, with the pump feeding the rail, and the regulator flowing the return. You shouldn't have any issues with the regulator in terms of flow...