SleeperZ

It's not the injectors that are seeing 50 psi. The injectors are seeing the FPR pressure of 36 psi because they are spraying into the intake pressurized to 14 psi. But even 50 psi is not often a problem for EFI injectors, some Honda setups with RRFPRs hit 100 psi fuel pressure (not that the injectors run well though.)

That's really cool, Mike, congratulations!

That rail looks exactly like the stock Arizona Speed and Marine sells for $12 a foot. I got 2 feet, tapped it for 1/8"NPT and 3/8"NPT, fit it with -6AN line.

I believe what Bob meant by that was, they were technical in the sense that they pertain to any engine, not specifically the Datsun engine.

I see where you'se coming from now. I'm on board!

Very clean engine! One thing I notice is the crankcase vent is tied into the manifold? Not good - you do not want to pressurize the crankcase. I would vent it and the valve cover, either with filters or a catch can. The emission nazis in Colorado haven't noticed my lack of EGR yet (knock on wood.) My Weber throttle body works fine on a turbo - it's just that you have to make a custom boot to fit the large throttle opening. Also the throttle adjustment is nice, as I got rid of the stock turbo automatic idle. I believe those are the only reasons MSA says you can't use the big throttle for the turbo. It sure works nice, excellent throttle response! And the lack of hoses, properly terminated, will not result in failing an exhaust test. Should be fine for 49 of the 50 states anyway. Hope you're not in California. Oh wait, now you will have Arnold to take care of things like that.

I, for one, am looking forward to the new results.

I can see how a 160* thermostat can help protect against temperature spikes from doing short boost runs, but I'd like to make a couple points on that topic... The ECU make not be out of warm up mode if the engine is running at 160*, and you will not get proper fueling. I could be wrong on this, I'm not sure. Additionally, if you are already running hotter than the thermostat under normal driving conditions (ie: not boosting), a colder thermostat will not cool your car. The radiator is already heat soaked trying to dissipate the engine heat, and the thermostat is wide open. If you try to lower the temperature of the 'stat, you have done nothing to improve the cooling system's ability to shed heat; your 160* 'stat will be wide open too.

I'm talking about 5800' elevation. LS1s should do low 13s down on the left coast (the right too, AFAIK). The Z06 only does mid-high 13s here, so they are no trouble for me. The elevation causes NA cars to lose a full second or more on 1/4 mile ET, where turbos lose less than half a second or less, depending on the car and setup. So even supercharged and mildly tuned turbo Civics lay waste to the Mustangs up here, it's actually quite funny how the Mustangs think they are fast.

The sender in the turbo pan is an oil TEMPERATURE sender for the oil temp gauge. I didn't realize the oil cooler had a fan, my old donor 280ZX didn't have one specifically for the oil cooler. Are you referring to the fuel rail fan? That is controlled by a temperature sender in the thermostat housing and a timer circuit under the dash - it may work well for a cooler fan...

I "dis" Mustangs because up here in Denver, the best they do is low 15s (with excellent driving). New stock cars like the 'Ru STi and the SRT-4 (and the EVO) are just as fast as the LS1s at the strip, at 14s. It takes work and money to get a Mustang that fast, and the stereotypical 'Stang driver thinks he's fast out of the box.

I've seen flow charts of the Ultra flow versus lots of competitors, even the Super Turbo. Nothing flows even close to the Ultraflow with the same backpressure, including the Super Turbo (flows about half). The Flowmasters are pathetic - but they are popular with the V8 folks, partly because they are used in pairs, and they generally don't run as much power either (normally aspirated, that is.)

And I was giving a demo the other day, and hit 115 going up an on-ramp. Boy does it ever float around on drag radials!

If you vent the valve cover, you should vent the crankcase too. If the PCV valve is installed, you'd have to block that as well. Otherwise, yo can leave it all connected, and install an oil trap, and maintain the PCV system. That will keep oil odors and mist down under the hood.

There are a number of threads you can search for the answers to that question. There were 2 distinct threads this summer on this exact subject. The short answer depending on your budget : fuel management, big fuel system, intercooler, big a$$ turbo, exhaust, body reinforcement, better brakes, and a good motor and driveline, with HD clutch. Same as any turbo car, I could have written that for any number of target vehicles.

Yeah, I think all the Z31s were timed to 20 also.

Let's just say I'm not a Rush fan, and leave it at that. I was amazed to get this in my email. This quote is attributed to Rush: From the mouthes of babes, as they say?

ASSuming your car is running right, you should be able to deal with the Mustangs alright. The LS1s may be more than you can handle at sealevel. Just a guess.

What are the fittings on the finned rail? If you have hose barbs, you'll be wanting 5/16" FI hose like you were advised. If you want to move to braided line, you'll be replacing the 5/16" hose barbs with pipe thread adapters to -AN (if they're fitted with pipe threads.) Usually on a fuel rail replacement, you have to relocate the fuel pressure regulator. -AN fittings and braided line are not going to mix with a stock regulator.

The main reason is no one makes reasonably priced kits' date=' for any car, but especially Zs; there isn't the market to support it like the new cars (Honda, Ford...) and I'm a cheapskate. I piece together a system I can afford. I got a deal on a used intercooler from a guy at the strip - saw him run low 12's on it. Had to make some pipes for it, but I'm very happy with the results. Second reason is just the satisfaction of having to learn how stuff works, applying it and seeing the results. Cons I think, with a kit you may miss important details, and not knowing, you can mess it up. I used to peruse Honda boards, to see what they know about turbocharging. It seems like the concept of fuel managment is frequently absent - just throw on the "FMU" and it handles boost just fine. Don't upgrade the pump and [b']BOOM![/b] Engine shelled because the motor ran lean.

I don't know how you folks are searching, but I just did a search on the keyword "intercooler" in the turbo forum, and got back PAGES of threads. And that is my advice too. We are all about knowing why we use a certain performance part, be it a compressor trim, or a particular intercooler configuration. So do a general search, read up on what people do relative to your goals, and start forming your own opinions on the proper parts to use in YOUR Z car. Just say NO to "kits".

20* BTDC. The TPS needs to be closed. If you can't get there, you have to drop the pump and move it back a tooth (or two, or three). Err, supposedly the '83 is weird, and is set to 24* BTDC