SleeperZ

Sorry, I didn't see your post. I suppose it doesn't matter since you already had the Flowtechs.... I wouldn't say it's an intolerable muffler, I'm just very impressed with the Dynomax. The Dynomax also happens to cost $20 more.

I've never liked red either, or the hood scoop style (although it is certainly functional!) That aside, it is one HOT car! I love the write up too - the guy obviously loves the car (I wonder why he's selling it..?)

That's what I'm not following. Yes, the air will back up behind the throttle, but that doesn't mean pressure is highest there. The pressure is generated at the turbo, and that is where I think the spike will be highest. If you are talking about a sonic shockwave back from the throttle body closure, I don't think we are talking on the same time scale or energy level. That type of standing wave effect would only be present for less than 5 milliseconds; I think we are talking on the scale of 200-500 milliseconds here. As the throttle closes, the air flow will drop - the turbo compressor is still spinning, and the boost pressure will climb momentarily. The pressure is still highest there at the turbo compressor outlet because you still have positive airflow into the engine, and the pressures will drop as you approach the TB. Personally, I don't think it matters much where the valve is, as long as it's between the turbo and the TB. Mine happens to be mounted right at the throttle, but only because that's because I just followed the herd without thinking about it. I'm interested in the discussion of the benefits/tradeoffs without the misleading or incorrect information, and at this point it seems to me there may be a slight advantage to having it at the turbo outlet. I continue to be open to hearing other ideas and factors I may not have considered.

I put in the final piece of my 3" mandrel bent exhaust yesterday, and road tested it. I bought all the pieces and clamped it all together, except for one piece I had a friend weld up for me. The system consists of the stainless Scottie downpipe clamped to a 2-1/2" -> 3" transition cone, 3" pipe with a jog in it to 2 90* mandrel bent pieces, muffled with a Dynomax Ultraflow. I was very surprised at how quiet this sytem is!! It is quieter than my 2-1/2" system with a 2-1/2" Flowtech Afterburner muffler. There is zero droning at 2500 rpm now -- the old one was horrible. And of course there is slightly less throttle response off-boost, but the boost comes up very fast

Oh yeah, I checked the rules for the imports, and the front edge of the loop must be within 6" of the front U-joint. There is a handy little flat spot under the Z car that places the loop at 5", at least on my 280Z/L28ET/T5 with a custom driveshaft.

heheheh, I just installed the loop this weekend $25 from Summit, minimal modifications...

I don't have the link handy, but these Walbro pumps have been characterized for flow vs. pressure. Figure out your base fuel pressure, and the boost pressure you will run to get the power you need, add them together and see what the pump will flow at that pressure. Give yourself at least 20% margin on flow. It's that simple.

It looks like a good deal, but the pump is for in-tank applications. I don't know if it will work for an in-line application like a Z. Will it work for you? Let me answer your question with 2 more questions. How much power are you making or want to make, and what fuel pressure are you running, base plus boost?

That's strange. The turbo motors I pull, attached to auto trannies, have no pilot bushing at all. AFAIK, all the cranks are the same, but go buy a pilot bushing specifically for the car which your motor came out of. If it still won't fit, have it reamed out before you install it.

I know it's been said before, but the cost of the cooler is usually a fraction of the cost of the total install. Routing pipes where there were none before, and the cost of the piping, cutting and welding, not to mention the time involved, is a good enough reason to get the best IC you can afford, and stay with it. It always sucks having to do the piping again, I know, because I am current re-doing my intake; this time it's right. I'm glad I don't have to redo my IC piping too.

I'm 5'-8", there's plenty of room.

I'd bet $ the abs controllers are stand-alone, just for safety's sake. Just find a car that has adaptable wheel sensors, and get the controller and the ECU - you should e off and running once you figure out the plumbing and wiring. I think you could use any MC (they look the same as any ordinary one), just by looking at the ABS system in my Subaru...

I have a set of 14x6 and a set of 15x6 for the street, and 225/50/15s on 15x7s for the track. I like the cheap, light weight, sleeper stuff

That is fine for 50 psi, I'm sure. Pete, what fuel pressure are you running? If it is lower than 40 psi or so, maybe you should consider 7/16" or 1/2". Aside from having to buy the line, you won't have trouble going bigger...

I doubt it. The Supra has a crossflow head, and the intake runners will undoubtedly be evenly spaced.

Brilliant! I'm going to do that with mine!

The automatics have a spacer plate on the end of the crank. It will just pop off with a little persuasion.

With a factory Z31 ECU setup in my 280, stock injectors and regulator, stock L28 block and head, T3/TO4B V trim turbo and a good intercooler, I run low 13s, equivalent to 250-260 rwhp. That's close to 300 crank hp maybe, but it's the rwhp that gets you the ET, and a best trap of 107mph.

1 - Yes. 2 - AMOF is "as a matter of fact" (sort of). 3 - I would, except for an adjustable FPR (NOT rising rate, just manifold referenced).

Considering the torque, and the length of the wrench, I can apply 60-70 pounds to the handle...but not if the bolts are corroded. But I've dis-assembled 4 L28 engines to date and never had a problem with head bolts.

One word: HOTSAW!

Ouch, that can't be good.

If you aren't turbo, the RRFPR is going to be useless - it boosts fuel pressure at a higher than linear rate only when you rise above atmospheric pressure. If you put bigger injectors on a factory Z EFI, you will have to modify the AFM, otherwise you will burn more fuel, but only because you'll be running pig-rich and not get any better power. AMOF, you will easily accomodate your power requirements with a stock fuel system, without bigger injectors. If you do start to run lean at the top end, just get an adjustable pressure regulator to bump the fuel pressure up, then adjust the AFM to lean it back out.