wheelman

Would you post some pictures of your motor mount setup? Wheelman

The intake elbow and water pump are from a B-Body LT1 but the heads look to be aluminum. Makes me wonder what this engine really is. When you pull it from the truck drop the oil pan and let us know if it has 2 or 4 bolt main bearing caps. 2 bolts = not a Corvette engine. BTW: What is a Grand Sport cam? I've heard of the LT4 cam refered to as the LT4 Hot Cam but not a Grand Sport cam. Wheelman

The one guage that isn't covered by the JTR manual in regards to the LT1 is the tach. I used the output from the PCM instead of connecting to the ignition. Other than that all the guages can be made to work exactly like an earlier SBC. My sentiments exactly in reference to not needing AC. I thought I wouldn't want PS but have decided to install it. After auto-xing the car a few times I relized the large tires and extra weight on the front make for a tiring experience. Wheelman

The LT1 from the caddy will have the iron heads and a milder cam but other than that is essentially the same as the F-Body engine. The one thing you run into with the F-Body and B-Body (Caddy, Caprice, Roadmaster, etc.) LT1 is the accessories don't all work in the stock locations. The AC can not stay where it is if you use the JTR mounts. This means you either eliminate or relocate it. The wiring is not that difficult depending on how much you decide to remove from the harness. I used a T5 transmission with mine which meant I had to figure a way to create a VSS but if you use a T56 or the stock auto (4L60E) you won't have to do this. It all depends on how much of the original drivetrain you use and whether you want to retain the stock Datsun gauges. I was able to make all the stock guages work by following the instructions in the JTR manual. Good Luck. Wheelman

I did some more research and finally took the rod ends off my rack to measure them and here's what I found. My rack is from a 1999 Forester. The rack housing length is 18.25" The rack length (part that moves back and forth) is 23.5" The inner tie rod thread size is M14-1.5 The input shaft has the rough splines (I count something like 20 splines even though we thought it was 18). It appears the following Subaru racks all use the smaller thread inner tie rod end. Might even be the exact same rack. 1998 - 2002 Forester 1993 Impreza 1998 - 2001 Impreza 1991 - 2004 Legacy 2001 - 2004 Outback I'm a little confused by this list as sweetride2go said his rack is from a 1995 Impreza and the thread dimensions I found for the inner tie rod he used are the same as those on my rack. Maybe the length was different. So it would appear that the older racks are more desirable because it's possible to use the inner tie rods from an 84 Celica with the stock Subaru outers that come with the rack. I still need to assemble this combination and measure it's length from end to end before I'll be comfortable saying that is a 100% true statement but it's looking promising, especially based on sweetride2go's install. Wheelman

Yeah, there are actually quite a few of us in the NW. In fact there are 3 members of HybridZ here in the Tri-Cities alone. Could you take a picture of your setup and possibly measure it from tip to tip of the outer tie rods so we have the dimensions of the setup. I looked up that part number and it references back to a Toyota Celica ST. And you were able to thread it right into the rack and the Suby outer tie rod with no problem? The outer Suby ends, did your's look like the ones in the pictures from 78lt1z? What about the taper of the Suby ends, how did it match up the the Datsun steering arm? Wheelman

Which inner tie rod are you using?? Making a statement like that is guaranteed to generate questions. The angle on the first u-joint in your setup looks a little extreme, have you noticed any binding with it? I also went to the JY and grabbed the Suby steering shaft. It amounted to a rag joint with a u-joint on each end. I cut one of the u-joints away from the rag joint and will weld it to the end of my stock steering shaft. It'll need to be shortened first though. Wheelman

Another option is to pull the pins from the large connectors that plug into the PCM. Label each wire as you remove it from the connector, feed it through the hole and then plug it back into the same spot in the connector. This way you don't have to cut a wire unless you really need to change it's length. Wheelman

There' an intermediate solution that allows you to retain the opti for cost reasons if you want and also run MS to control larger injectors and boost. The trailing edge of the low res slots in the optical wheel all have the same timing relative to TDC of each cylinder. This can be used to trigger the fuel and spark control for MS without requiring the high voltage section of the opti to be bypassed. In effect it acts like a standard optical CAS distributor (which it is). So the stock PCM can be replaced if your application includes boost or extremely large injectors or just cause it's cool. Wheelman

I'm a software engineer and have to differ with BobbyZ that one degree is as good as another. When it comes to CE and ME maybe but moving to or from another engineering discipline to EE or SE (software engineering) is more than just changing your job description. I agree with SHO-Z, try to decide what you want to be doing 10 years from now and pursue that, but in the long run be flexible and willing to explore your options and learn new things. I started out studying to be an EE but discovered very early on (thank god) I really didn't like it and switched to computer science. Now I work as an embedded software developer so I get to play in the EE field as well as write software, best and worst of both worlds. I've been doing it for more than 20 years now and am seriously considering a change to something totally different (maybe I'll become an Astronaut when I grow up ). Seriously though, any career can burn you out, but working as an engineer can be very stressful, especially in the electronics / software field as things change extremely quickly, unlike CE where the same techniques used 50 years ago are still in use today. Wheelman

Before you start bad mouthing the shop it would be a good thing to ask yourself what you know about their operating status at the moment. You said yourself they have the reputation as the best L engine shop around, maybe they're swamped with work and don't want more unless it brings in cash right now. Maybe they are cash strapped and aren't willing to extend themselves for you. Maybe the guy is dealing with all kinds of $hit in his life right now and the last thing he wanted to hear was "hey, my buddy's dad will let me make payments for the next 4 years, how bout you?". Yeah, I know that isn't what you were saying, but what was he hearing and what were all the other factors involved in his reaction, do you know? If not then be careful what you say, you might be helping to unnecessarily put another Z shop out of business. BTW: I have no connection what so ever with anyone in this thread, I just wanted to remind everyone who was willing to kick the guy to the curb that we don't have much information to go on here. Wheelman

I agree with Jon, we should actually be concentrating on the front suspension not the rear. Here is the link I posted in the other thread to a SLA suspension setup for an SN95 Mustang. I think this would be a good starting point to design a similar setup for an S30 Z. http://www.agentfortyseven.com/racing/suspension01.html Wheelman

You move the top mount point of the strut back relative to the LCA or lengthen the TC rod which pushes the outer end of the LCA forward relative to the top strut mount. Wheelman

I'd be interested in playing along but I don't have any design experience or software. I've been considering an idea similar to this one for the SN95 Mustang. http://www.agentfortyseven.com/racing/suspension01.html Seems to me this design wouldn't be to hard to replicate for a Z chassis and also reduces the amount of cutting required to get it installed. Wheelman

Clifton, What tires are you running and what size are they? BTW: I really like that paint job. Wheelman

Bart, Isn't that fuel pressure issue seen more when the engine is at WOT and is caused by all the fuel being dumpped through the injectors in the first rail so the pressure drops in the second? Are you seeing the stumble off idle, mid-rpm throttle changes, at WOT, during steady state cruising or randomly? Sorry if you've already described this, I didn't want to go back and read the whole thread. Edit: I agree with Danno74Z about the size of your fuel lines. I installed 3/8" lines (feed and return) just so I wouldn't run into a flow problem. I'm only making ~315HP at the crank so your engine will definitely need more fuel than mine. Wheelman

24ounce, Are the rims you want to run a Honda (4x100) bolt pattern? If so I have a set of 1.5" thick Honda to Datsun spacer adapters I'd be willing to sell you. I used them to run a set of ROH 16x7 rims on my Z but am switching to different rims that will have the correct Datsun bolt pattern. The adapters are aluminum, hub-centric, convert from Datsun to Honda bolt pattern and are 1.5" thick and would come with the correct lug nuts for both the Datsun and the adapter studs. I'll let them go for $150.00 and you cover the shipping. If you want to see some pictures I'll post a few here. Wheelman

I think it boils down to balance, which is easy to say but hard in practice to find. I've been an employee pretty much my whole life but dabbled with the idea of owning my own business. I've come close to making the switch several times, more out of necessity than choice. What stopped me was the realization that I didn't want to work hard enough at the business I was about to start to make it successful. Not that I'm not willing to work hard, it's that I'm tired of the job I do (embedded software engineering) and the business I was going to start was the same thing. So I stepped back but haven't totally abandoned the idea of owning a business. Recently I've begun reconsidering the business idea due to conditions at work. As for enjoying the fruits of your labor, thats the balance thats hard to acheive. In my opinion its stupid to ignore the future but those who save every penny will die with a bunch of money and have lived a dreary, selfish life. So find that middle ground where you enjoy a portion of your money and put enough away to prepare for the retirement years. This is where I REALLY struggle. I have diabetes and a minor heart condition that will progressively get worse so I wonder just how long I'll live and I don't want to waste the time I have preparing for a retirement I will probably not have. Add to that a childhood where my family had very little which imprinted the "save every penny" attitude on me and it makes for an interesting internal conversation when I'm deciding whether to spend money on the car, the house or something else. I'm a terrible cheap skate. BTW: I fit in the 50K - 75K range. Wheelman

I think it's time to get the hip waders out, it's gettin pretty deep in here. Wheelman

Danno74Z, Yeah, my T5 only had a mechanical output which in a way was nice because I was forced to make it work. You are correct about getting the signal from the cable as well but I bought a 4-pulse square wave generator to do it. My speedo goes up to 160 mph, don't know if the car ever will, at least not with me driving it. Wheelman

Srgunz, Yes it did break the rim, at least the rear one, the front has some pretty good curb rash now but is still usable. I also noticed the corrosion and it appeared to have been cracked as there was a small amount of rust in the metal where it broke. At least it wasn't someone else driving when it happened, that would have been a huge mess. I did have a passenger at the time but he had asked to ride along and neither of us have reported any soreness. I have 4-point harnesses in both seats which I'm sure helped a lot, although I don't think I'll be taking passengers in the future. I hear what you're saying about a $1000.00 Z. All of them have had rust plus had been sitting for years, not what I want to deal with. "Box of Chocolates" you know. As for needing more tire, I completely agree, if I'd accepted that reality sooner I might not be rebuilding the front end now. Oh, well it's all good experience for when I decide to build a car from scratch? Maybe a Locost will be the next project, or a Factory Five Cobra, only the Shadow knows. Roadsterx has a set of Konig Rewinds with Goodyear cantilever slicks he's been trying to sell me, maybe I'll take them off his hands. Anybody have experience with them that can provide some feedback?? Wheelman

Mike, I'm glad my "accident" prompted you to get your Z back on the road where it belongs. I've looked at 4 or 5 candidates now and all have required more rust repair than I want to do. I've cleaned almost all of it out of my current car so rebuilding the frame rails is more attractive than starting over. When I consider that doing this will remove even more rust it makes the job an even better option. A couple days ago I bought the steel for the rails. 2.5" x 2.5" x .120" tubing. I got two 6 foot lengths for $41.00. I'll probably need to get a short length of 1" x 3" x .095" to tie the front rails into the under floor rails but until I cut the existing rails out I'll wait on buying it. I'll also get some .25" thick plate to build mount points for the crossmember and sway bar. Lots of fun to come. Wheelman

I tried to run mine without a VSS and found it to have a problem with stalling when coming to a stop, especially if I'd shifted down to slow the car. The reason this happens is the PCM is monitoring the VSS to determine what the idle should be. If the car is moving the PCM opens the IAC a small amount to keep the idle at 1500 rpm or so (this is adjustable). When there is no VSS the PCM always thinks the car is stopped so tries to keep the rpm at idle (around 800). To do this it clamps the IAC completely closed, when you release the throttle there is no air flow into the engine and it dies or will stumble real bad. It's possible to adjsut some parameters to reduce this issue but it never really goes away and would definitely not pass CA emissions. BTW: I created a VSS using a pulse generator inline with my mechanical speedo cable so I was able to retain my stock speedometer and have the VSS. Wheelman

sstallings, If you are planning to upgrade the heads and cam you might consider picking up a Caprice 9C1 LT1 instead of one from a Camaro or Vette. It's the same motor but has iron heads and a cam setup for lower end torque. They're cheaper than the more performance oriented version but with a cam and head swap there is no difference. I swapped in a Caprice motor, kept the iron heads, installed an LT4 hot cam, eliminated the emissions stuff, AC, PS and burned a tune to remove those things from the PCM. Dynoed 274 RWHP @ 5800 RPM and 307Ft/Lbs at 3800 RPM. I'm also running a WC T5 instead of the T56, they're much cheaper and lighter but a bit hard to find, at least in my part of the country. Wheelman

Bart, I'm running an LS1 tank using the stock Datsun fuel pump wiring with no problems. I'd tend to think it's not the pump wiring, that is unless Tim had the exact same wiring issue you have. You got the harness from Tim when you bought the drive train right? Maybe there's an intermittent short in one or more of the sensor wires that is causing the whole problem. Have you ohmed out the harness to make sure you have good consistent conductivity in all the ground, power and sensor wires? I found that while wrapping my harness with e-tape I inadvertently clipped a couple ground wires while removing the tie-wraps I'd originally bundled it with. I had to go back through, ohm out the wires, unwrap the bad sections, fix the cuts and re-wrap it. Was a real pain in the ass, but it was all my fault. Maybe you're fighting a similar issue. Edit: BTW: The fuel pressure bleeds down rather quickly in my system after the pump shuts off when the engine isn't running. I'm not surprised you have no pressure in the lines when you disconnect them. Wheelman