wheelman

You might also look at the Silicon Labs 8051 variants. I use them where I work and they have a huge amount of power in a small package thats cheap. They all have built in oscillators and a crossbar that allows you to map the on chip peripherals to whatever pin you want, well almost whatever pin. Most pins can be setup as open drain, weak push/pull or high impedance. They are very cool little processors and have a powerful enough command set it makes assembly programming almost enjoyable, unlike a PIC. I'll second what mikeatrpi said, most of the controllers you'll look at can sink way more power than they can source. You'll want to think if the controller as the controller not the driver for the circuit, but there are better things to use than relays. Look at larger transistors as sold state switches. Wheelman

Viperredls1Z has done several Subaru rack conversions with the original engine. You should contact him about how he did it. Wheelman

Thanks Ron, I feel so much better now that I've done my penance. I've learned my lesson, I'll never post in one of these threads again, those reading the thread are extra sensitive to spelling and grammar errors. Wheelman

Ok, I confess, I didn't run my rant through the spell checker first. I'll institute a self imposed ban for 15 minutes. Wheelman

Braap, I totally agree and would like to add the following: 1. Bad spelling makes it that much more difficult to use the search function. As a example lets assume I misspelled a common search term such as "power steering". Instead I spelled it "power sttering", noticed the error but neglected to fix it. If my post had information in it that another would find useful but it never is picked up by the search I've diminished the usefulness of my post. 2. Bad grammer can lead to misunderstandings of what the original poster was trying to say leading to additional unnecessary questions to clarify the meaning. This makes it more difficult for a subsequent user to find the useful information in the thread, assuming there is any. 3. The FireFox browser has the ability to perform spell checking on text entered into a web page, use it instead of Explorer if you need a built in spell checker. Granted it won't catch all the mistakes but it will catch most. 4. The text entry capabilities of browsers do not compare to MS Word (which has auto-correct, auto-capitalize, auto-???), don't assume you can just type and the program will fix your stupidity. 5. Bad grammer, spelling and MALL speak reflect on the perceived intelligence of the poster and this board. Do us all a favor and at least sound like you know what you're talking about!!! OK, I'll climb down off my soap box now, if the admins want to delete my post or ask me to refrain I understand and will comply. Wheelman

Mauisnow13, I think you made the right choice to stick with the S30 and agree an L28ET is a more realistic swap than a VG30DETT. The VG motor not only needs custom motor mounts but also requires notching the frame rails to clear the turbos. It's a much more complicated swap for very little extra in return, an L28ET can be built into a very strong motor. ***** WARNING THREAD JACK ***** BajaRacer, I'm was running 225f/250r and it wasn't bad at all. I'm swapping the front to back and vice-versa to see if I can reduce the tail happy nature of the car. I agree with what was stated earlier, your spring rates are pretty stiff for street use. BTW: What brand and length are the springs you're currently running? What struts are you running and if adjustable on what setting(s)? Wheelman

The feeling is similar to when your first child is born isn't it? Congratulations!!!!! Keep us posted on what you find out about the PCM. Wheelman

Do you have the JTR manual? If so there is a section it in describing the use of a Chrysler oil pressure switch. Read that section and you'll understand why the fuel pump is not kicking back on. I don't know how your harness is wired or the setup of the F-body pump relay but in a B-Body setup there is an oil pressure switch wired in parallel with the PCM to the fuel pump relay. The PCM can control the relay and uses it to prime the system when the key is turned on but after that the oil pressure switch closes the fuel pump relay unless the oil pressure drops below a certain point. I have the pressure switch and an original Datsun oil pressure sender connected to the port at the back of the intake manifold. I used a T-fitting just as the JTR manual describes. You will have to do something like this unless the f-body PCM accepts an oil pressure input signal (I don't think it does) from your sender. Hope this helps. One way to verify this is actually your problem is to "hot" wire the pump so it stays on all the time, then start your engine. Wheelman

One question nobody has asked yet is what transmission are you using? If you stick with the 4L60E or T56 the stock PCM harness that comes with the engine will connect to it. If you run a different transmission like I did (I'm running a T5) you'll need to figure out a way to provide the PCM with a signal for the vehicle speed sensor input. I tried to run without it but found the engine would regularly die when coasting down to stop, especially if I used the engine to slow the car. If you search for LT1 swap threads you should find one where I describe why this happens so I won't go through it again (thats my way of encouraging you to use the search function). One other thing nobody has mentioned is that the 96 LT1 is OBDII so make sure you account for that if you buy a program like TunerCat or LT1Edit. Other than that most of the things you run into have been covered already in this thread. wheelman

An even better reason to clean all the undercoat off is to get decent welds. Welding with the undercoat still there will cause the welds to be contaminated. It will also be a real pain to try welding the thin sheet if the surface you're trying to join to is dirty, it'll pop and burn through much easier. Wheelman

The L24 engine actually made more HP than the L26 engine!!! Wheelman

I auto-x my LT1 powered Z in the Tri-Cities (Kennewick, Pasco, Richland) Washington. Our local club is named Sand & Sage Sports Car Club (ssscc.org). We average 13 events each season. I got hooked on auto-x after deciding I'd try it once just to see what the car could do. It's such an adrenaline rush you can't stop shaking for 10 minutes after each run. One word of advice, get the widest tires you can possibly afford! I found out the hard way. Heres a YouTube video of the car in action at an event we had in Yakima last season. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Azjf_6PF2uo Wheelman

If the PCM is wired to control the fuel pump it will run the pump for 2 seconds when the key is turned on and then not run it again. This should provide pressure in the rail, if your's is zero you probably have a bad fuel pressure regulator. Once the rail is primed there should be enough pressure to start the engine which then builds oil pressure closing the oil pressure switch in turn running the fuel pump. There has been some discussion about how this is actually wired but that's how it is in my car. My engine and underhood harness came from a 9C1 Caprice. If the VATS has not been disabled the engine will run for a few seconds, then the PCM will kill the ignition and or injectors effectively killing the engine. Wheelman

I run a 4 point harness in my Z as well and have never been bothered by the cops. In fact my car must have some sort of stealth mode I don't know about because it's almost totally ignored by them. As for using the Cusco bar, I wouldn't, at least not on the track. I made a separate bar just to connect the straps to that bolts to the front side of the strut tower. Wheelman

Disconnect the pump wiring, then pull a spark plug, connect the plug wire, hold the plug against the block and crank the engine. You should see spark if the ignition system is working, if you don't then at least you know where to start more investigating. Wheelman

They are made up of 2 layers. 1 layer bolts to the hub using the original 4 bolt pattern then the second layer which has the 5 studs is bolted to it using countersunk hex head screws. I haven't used the 4 to 5 adapters but I used to run spacer adapters that converted from the Datsun pattern to Honda 4x100. They are 1 1/2" thick. I never had a problem with them but will not be using them anymore because I'm switching to a set of Diamond races wheels with the Datsun pattern. Wheelman

Yes. It's the AWD turbo model. Wheelman

My across the street neighbor bought an Eclipse GSX (I think 92 but for sure 1st gen) a few months ago and is now moving and wants to sell it to me for $500.00. The body and interior are in very good shape but the engine is partially dis-assembled. Apparently the guy he bought it from had rebuilt the engine with the "help" of a friend. During final assembly the engine timing was messed up so on the initial startup attempt several valves were bent. The head was then removed to assess the level of damage. According the the guy who owns it now the turbo and exhaust manifold will need to be replaced or rebuilt. Anyway, If I buy the car I intend to use it as a daily driver and backup auto-x car in case I bend the Z again. What do you guys think, should I buy it or not??? Wheelman

Not to jack the thread but I've been discussing this with one of the members of my auto-x club. He is planning to make some pretty major mods to his 240SX to reach the magical 50/50 mark. So what are your feelings/opinions on this subject Ron? If you don't want to polute this thread with the response then PM me or include a link to prior threads where you've stated you view point. BTW: I did some quick calculations of the weight distribution of my Z with me in it. I weighed it sans myself so I'm making the assumption that 90% of my weight ends up on the rear. Is this reasonable? Car weighed 2540 with 1320 on the front and 1220 on the rear for a 52/48 distribution. With me added: Total 2705, 1336 front, 1369 rear for a 49/51 distribution. Thanks Wheelman

I'd have to say DIO by himself. Rain Bows in the Dark!!!!!! That song always gets me going. OK OK. J. Geils Band. Not that I listened to them much, I was more into the harder stuff. Did anyone mention Jethro Tull or Dire Straights or Steely Dan (anyone know that name refers to?). I don't think I saw David Bowie listed, he's a bit weird but made some very good music. Wheelman

I spent my teen years in the 80s so the music from that era brings back lots of memories, here are some of my favs. Metallica, Queen's Ryke, Van Halen, Scorpions, Def Lepard, Queen, Styx, Rush, Quiet Riot, Motley Crue, Ozzy, Guns-N-Roses, Ronny James Dio, Billy Thorpe, White Snake, Twisted Sister, Talking Heads, Wang Chung, Billy Idol, Duran Duran, U2, The Police, Genesis (Phil Collins, Peter Gabriel), Pat Benatar, Tesla, AC/DC, etc... I completely agree with TeamNissan. The quality of music and it's promotion started to decline in the early 90s and never recovered. I love the music from the 80s and will proudly say I'm a product of the "Hair Band" era. I also am a big fan of the music from the late 60s through 70s. Bands like Pink Floyd, Led Zepellin, The Beattles, Kansas, The Eagles, Deep Purple, Cream, Peter Frampton, etc.. BTW jbk240z: It's the Jay Geils Band. Wheelman

No it doesn't matter which side is feed and return. Have you considered putting a Y on both ends and running the feed into the back of both and the return from the front? It balances the flow to both rails. Wheelman

I went through the same emotions over the Labor Day weekend 2007. I slide my Z into a curb while auto-x racing and had to trailer it home. I was very fortunate in that no-one was hurt (I had a passenger with me) and the damage was mostly to the right side suspension. I agonized for a week or two and looked around for a replacement shell but in the end decided to fix the car I already had. After looking at the pictures I'd say the shell is probably repairable but it needs MAJOR work. The biggest thing I saw was the rocker panel and the left rear wheel cocked at a bad angle. This leads me to conclude your unibody is bent on that side. A frame shop could probably pull it out and you could either replace or straighten the other damaged parts. So take some time to work through the emotions and then maybe have a shop or two look it over. Based on that it will be easier to make a decision you feel comfortable with. Wheelman

Exactly!!!! How many times are you going to be futzing with the pump/sender unit once the tank is installed and everything is working? It takes me about 15 minutes to drop the tank (even with fuel in it) and another 5 to pull the assembly. My exhaust is not in the way and I left a little extra length in the fuel lines and electrical connections. It's maybe another 20 minutes to re-install. But you are correct: To each his own!!! Wheelman

After dropping and re-installing my LS1 tank several times I think an access panel is unnecessary. Besides, making it large enough to allow good access to the pump/sending unit lock ring and provide enough clearance to maneuver the unit through means a relatively large hole. In other words, just drop the tank and forget the idea of an access panel. Wheelman