wheelman

The guy in Germany is doing the actual coding, I'm just testing it on my KA24DE. He brought up the question regarding the L28ET CAS wheel and if it was similar to the RB30E wheel. It may be possible to elongate the hole as you suggest but the software would have to be flexible enough to allow for a primary slot that isn't exactly 8 of the hi-res slots long. I know it's possible to do this in the code but it would need to be tested before being released to the wild. Anyone willing to either donate an L28ET CAS wheel/distributor for modification or do the testing themselves? I know Ron, I just thought someone doing an MS install would have documented the CAS wheel setup and didn't even think about other EMSs. Edit: The guys implementing the wheel decoder have requested pictures of the various Nissan CAS wheels showing the slots with an indication of rotation direction. Please post them here and I'll forward them on. Be sure to indicate the direction of rotation and the engine the CAS is from. The code will go into the MS2 and the upcoming MS3.

Thanks KTM!! It's no wonder I didn't find that thread, I was concentrating on the MS forum.

Does anyone else have any of these they're willing to sell? I'm also building a KA-T and would like to buy a couple injectors. I have a set already but would like to have a couple spares on hand in case of failures.

Forgvie me if this has been discussed but I couldn't find the info. I'm looking for. I'm in the process of installing an MS-II unit into a 240SX (KA24DE) which uses a CAS distributor that's very similar to the one found in the 280ZXT. I'm also working in cooperation with a fellow in Germany who is implementing support for the Nissan CAS wheels. Nissan wheels generally have 2 sets of slots. One set has the same number of slots as cylinders in the engine it's meant to support, the other has 360 slots. It turns out the 4 slots in the 240SX dist. are not all the same length and they can be measured in relation to the 360 slots. When you do this you get an 8-2-2-2 pattern. Slot one is 8 of the 360 wide while the others are 2 wide. The early RB30E distributor has a similar pattern, 8-2-2-2-2-2. The guy implementing the Nissan wheel support would like to know if the 280ZXT CAS is the same as the RB30E. If so the new code would make using MS-II with an L28ET much easier and more reliable. Is anyone who has a 280ZXT CAS distributor willing to examine the wheel and tell us if it has the 8-2-2-2-2-2 pattern? Here is a link to the thread discussing the new code: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=30254 Thanks!!!

Which PCV port are you checking for vacuum? I have a 95 LT1 with a MAF so it may be different from yours. My throttle body has 2 PCV ports, one on the right next to the TPS and one on the lower left under the main intake. The one on the right connects to the hole in the valve cover and will not have a vacuum, but instead is fed from the intake tract downstream of the air filter, in front of the throttle blades. This feeds air into the engine block and on a MAF car must pull air from the intake tract. The other PCV port connects to the left side of the intake manifold via a hose and contains the PCV valve, this port will have a vacuum. The system applies a vacuum to a passage in the intake manifold that connects to the engine block, pulls air from the block through the PCV valve into the throttle body. This creates a slight vacuum in the block which is pulls fresh air in through the hole in the valve cover. So if you have a breather in the hole and the hose connecting the PCV to the left side of the throttle body you should be fine. If you don't have the hose from the PCV to the throttle body thats where the leak is. From the sounds of it this wouldn't cause bad fuel mileage though. A speed density car is much less affected by vacuum leaks than a MAF car.

What fuel pump and pressure regulator are you running? When I first installed my LT1 I ran a Walbro 255lph pump with the stock regulator. I'm not certain of it but I think the pump produced too much flow for the regulator to handle which increased the pressure in the rails. This caused my engine to run rich. I solved the problem by indirectly by replacing my stock (modified) Datsun tank with a 2001 Camaro tank that has an intank pump. This pump flows a lot less than the Walbro did consequently the stock pressure regulator can handle it. If you're running a Walbro pump you should check your fuel pressure as well as everything else thats been suggested. If the pressure is higher than it should be you will have to replace the stock regulator or the pump.

Thanks for the replies regarding the A6 vs. V710 question. I'm planning to run V710s next season but figured I'd ask just to get a feel for what you guys thought. My primary reason for choosing the V710s is cost but based on what has been said they are more consistent for a longer period of time although initially a bit slower than the Hoosiers. I don't think I could tell the difference though, I'm far from a "high level" driver.

So what are the opinions on Kumho V710s vs. Hoosier A6s?

I've never had Habanero jam but LOVE Jalapeno jam. I learned early on to take a small taste to gauge the heat before gobbling down the whole cracker or muffin or whatever it's on. Never thought to combine it with cream cheese but that sounds like a great combination. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) I can't have much of it anymore, diabetes means high sugar foods are not allowed.

The Megasquirt MAP sensor is soldered to the main board, you will need to run a vacuum line into the passenger compartment where you plan to mount the MS unit.

You REALLY want a stim, without it the only way to test your MS is in the car. If you have multiple problems, some with the MS itself and some with the in car wiring harness it can be extremely difficult to isolate what is causing the errant behavior. The standard stim from DIYAutoTune should be sufficient and as a kit is only $45.00, the JimStim which can simulate all sorts of trigger wheels is $59.00. It's money well spent for either of them. Have a good soldering iron and before you start assembly know what type of trigger you'll be using. When I assembled mine I wasn't sure what car it was going into so installed all the trigger circuits, probably cost me an extra couple hours. Also you'll want to make sure to know the type of injectors you have, high or low impedance. If you have low impedance injectors you'll need a resistor pack to limit current flow through them.

First thought that came to mind was "Where are Burt Reynolds and Sally Fields?". Second thought was WTF!!!

Reminds me of the Corvette they buchered in the movie Corvette Summer.

There are at least 2 specific model/year combinations listed 2 posts above yours. I used a 1999 Forrester Rack.

This is where you'll get yourself into trouble if you aren't VERY careful. It's been said in this thread but not clearly, "cash flow is king", if you take on too much debt to get into a property you'll have very little if any positive cash flow, this can eat up your personal income, especially when you have one or more empty units, which will happen. I owned a 4-plex for 3 years and still own a single family rental house. I sold the 4-plex just as the rents in my area started dropping but still own the single family home. One thing that hasn't been discussed yet is the amount of time spent managing the properties. I did most of the maintenance and landscape work on the 4-plex. I was there every weekend mowing the grass and repairing the sprinkler system. We also did most if not all the required work after tenants moved out. You can hire out the work but thats money, remember "cash flow is king". Take and keep the attitude it's a business and run it as such. Tenants aren't your family or friends, they are buying a product from you, don't give it to them for free or at a discount just because they have a sob story, THEY WILL. Your descriptions of how you analyze the properties you're interested in is good. Be patient and look for the really good deals, they're out there but not easy to find. It's possible to make a lot of money in real estate but it takes alot of work. Edit: One more thing, find a good commercial property real estate agent. Don't use an agent that doesn't have commercial experience, they don't know how to analyze the properties and have a different focus in selling.

Excellent speach, it should be telecast on all the major stations and shown to every graduating high school student.

Heres a recent shot of my car, the bumpers are installed now so it looks a little different from this picture.

There should be a metal tag attached the transmission that has some numbers on it. Punch the numbers on that tag into the field at the bottom of the page linked above and it'll tell you the application the transmission came from and whether it's a WC or not. If you don't trust the numbers or can't find the tag then you could try pulling the shifter to look at the fluid you find inside, or simply drain the fluid, it'll be obvious if it's gear oil or ATF. ATF is a red color where gear oil is brown. Another option to determine the fluid type is to pull the speedo cable drive, some fluid should drip out, looking at it will tell you the type. Hope that helps.

The frame rail isn't the only problem with running it low, you also have the engine mount tower in the way. This is why the bracket in question doesn't work as it's designed. One thing I contemplated trying is spacing that bracket out from the block far enough so the alternator was in front of the mount tower, then you need to use like a 4 or 5 inch spacer between the harmonic balancer and the hub. I didn't like the thought of that so scrapped the idea but had a conversation with another member here (can't remember who) that had set his up that way. He said his car was strictly a drag car so he wasn't worried about long term reliability of the bracket or the spacer. Anyway, the bottom line is there aren't a lot of options when trying to mount the alternator low and use the JTR engine mount system. You could look at the March accessory brackets but be ready to shell out some serious money. Another option might be to cut the mount towers off the Datsun cross member, fab up another cross member for the engine mounts and then notch the frame rail if needed to clear the alternator when using that bracket. Not sure it would work as the Datsun crossmember may still get in the way but it's something to look into. BTW: Even the Corvette accessory setup places the alternator up high but on the driver's side rather than the passenger. Here's a link to a page that shows all 3 stock accessory setups you'll find on LT1s. http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LT1.html Scroll about half way down the page. Hope this helps.

I did an LT1 swap and initially placed the computer in the front right corner of the engine bay (on the frame rail right behind the core support) but the radiator fill was right there so I moved it into the passenger foot well. It was a bit of a pain as the initial install forced me to shorten and lengthen every wire in the harness then I had to do the same thing again when I moved the computer to the footwell. Moral of the story, only install the computer once!!

It sounds like I should just stick with the 3.54. Our local courses aren't overly tight but the surface is low grip which tends to keep the speeds down. I can only remember hitting the limiter in 2nd a couple times and shifting to third once.

Yeah, nobody ever cheats in motor sports, right!!! Sure he cheated, but he did it in a way that it can't be proven. So what would any of us have done in his situation? Speaking for myself I probably would've done the same thing but made it look like more of a race. Doesn't make it right, but it is what it is, especially considering he probably isn't the only one that manipulates race outcomes. I agree with Deja though, if this stuff is to be truely eliminated the multi-car teams would have to be broken into separate teams that might be owned by a larger parent company but operated totally independant of each other. I don't expect to see it happen though, "drama" sells and thats what auto racing is truely about, it's the entertainment business after all.

I just acquired a 3.90 ratio R200 for a great price (free) and am debating whether to run it vs. the 3.54 for autocross. I figured out that with the 3.54 I hit the rev limiter in 2nd gear at ~64.7mph, with the 3.90 I'd hit it at ~58.8mph. I could raise the rev limiter a little from 6000rpm to 6300rpm and gain a few mph but not sure it's worth the extra wear on the engine. So the question is, what is the ideal speed to hit the rev limiter in 2nd considering the car is basically dedicated to autocross?

Challenger, Thats pretty funny, A few guys on my autocross club web site said I should do that to mine. Put a red pinstripe where the 2 colors meet and around the outer part of my rims. I think it would look really sharp. BTW: I painted and mounted the bumpers yesterday, I'll post some more pics as soon as I get them off the camera. Not sure I like them yet but I'm getting more used to the look. Haven't had the front one on the car in over 5 years so right now it looks wrong to me. I did some research and found out to be street legal I really need to have them mounted. OK, Here is a picture with the bumpers installed. I really need to repaint the front fenders with the same brand primer as the rest of the car.

There was some talk years ago about using either Patriot or S&S long tubes with JTR mounts but I don't remember whether anyone actually made them work. The headers you linked to will work with the MSA V8 mounts but I believe will be very low with JTR mounts and may not clear the frame rail or the steering shaft. As for the LT-1 specifically, it's essentially an SBC with some enhancements like reverse cooling and a very good EFI system. Pretty much any header that will fit a standard SBC will fit an LT-1 with the provision that depending on the donor car the engine came from the heads will be either angle plug or straight plug which will effect which headers you can use.