wheelman

Ah, don't think so, with the LT1 in there its easy enough to swap out the cam and a set of heads to make alot more HP. As it is I'm putting 275 to the ground with over 300 ft/lbs of torque. Besides I really don't like the looks of a big intercooler on the front and don't want the PSSST sound of a blow off valve.

Bart, Looks really good man!!! Here we are again doing basically the same type work on our cars at the same time. I want you to know I didn't see this thread until tonight. If I had I probably would've thought twice about the color scheme I chose for my car, which would have been a shame.

Hey Bart, Yeah, I've been more of a lurker lately. Not a lot of posts but I try to keep up on whats been going on. I haven't been running the Z this season as I've been doing the body work. Last year I tried to work on and race it simultaneously, got tired of tearing it down, doing a little work, putting it back together, racing it and then repeating the process so I decided to race my 240SX this season. Plus I didn't have the $1000.00 or so for race tires, it'll definitely be on the track next season though. In fact I'm taking it up to Spokane this coming weekend for an auto-x event at Deer Park. It'll be it's debut in the color scheme. I don't anticipate doing very well as my tires are SHOT but I know I'll have a good time which is the whole point. I think I'll go with painting the bumpers. I'm leaning more towards the dark gray than black, any opinions? Already have 1 vote for black from Scott_M67. Edit: Disco, The rims are Diamond Racing rims. 16x9.5" front 16x10" rear, not sure of offset but I have to use a 1" thick spacer on the rears. The rims are steel and pretty heavy. If I was looking for rims again i wouldn't get 16", they're just not well supported in race tire sizes unless I moved to road race hoosiers which aren't good for auto-x (take to long to build good heat). I got these from Braap along with the tires for a great price so I'm satisfied and I can run Kumho V710s or Hoosier A6s.

Disco, Thats a good idea, hadn't thought of doing that. If I paint the front I'll paint the rear as well. Question: The bumpers are chrome, if I paint them should I scuff them up first with 220 or 400 grit so the paint will adhere? Edit: A guy on a different forum suggested a red pin stripe to separate and accent to two colors. I think it would look real sharp but it's not going to happen for a while if I do it at all.

Here are a couple shots of before and after the body work and paint I just finished this last weekend. The paint is primer and the front fenders turned out a little bit lighter than the rest of the car. I'll go back and paint them again later. Before: After: It's certainly not perfect but it turned out alright for doing all the painting in the driveway or garage. I'm debating whether to put the front bumper on or not, what do you guys think?

I've got one laying around the garage, how much are you willing to pay? Keep in mind I'd have to ship it from WA state.

I spent 7 years in the AF as an enlisted guy, worked at a nuclear lab the whole time. I can say now looking back I think it was the dumbest decision I made to get out before completing my 20 years. My son and most of his friends all went into the AF and have had good experiences with it. Does it have it's down side? Sure, but so does every job you do, but where else will they pay you to be trained for a valuable job, pay you to do that job and send you all over the world to do it? No where! Plus if you get into the right career field you get to play with some very cool stuff you will find no where else. One of my son's friends works with the Predator drones, very cool if you ask me. As for the AFROTC paying for your school, not unless you qualify for a ROTC scholarship and those are very difficult to come by. They're a good deal if you can get one but don't count on it unless your grades are perfect. Psdenno related the classic story of you will be promised one thing and be given another with no say in the matter. This is exactly opposite of what I found when I was in and have heard from my son and all of his friends. Granted we were enlisted and officers are treated differently. Like some others have said I think you'd be stupid to spend $30,000 - $40,000 at a place like UTI or Wyotech. Use the military to get an engineering degree and then work in the auto industry as an engineer, you'll make 10 times more than a mechanic, still get to play with cars and don't have to get dirty doing it. Another way to look at it is consider cars your hobby and choose something else to earn a living, that way when you come home you won't be sick of cars. I speak from experience on this, my hobby was computers then I became a professional programmer, now the last thing I want to do when I get home is look at my computers, I'd rather be in the garage working on my car.

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This last weekend I got an up close personal look at one of these. The quality looked pretty good although what can you tell by simply looking at the outside of one. I noticed it's possible to get a look at the direction the helical gears point through the small holes in the side. So it should be possible to determine whether the gears are oriented correctly without disassembling it.

Have you made sure all the connections between the ECU and the various engine sensors are clean (no corrosion) and the main ECU plug has no corrosion? Also ensure you have a good solid ground connection. Those old wiring harnesses have a tendancy to corrode which degrades the connections to the ECU which then receives bogus signals from the sensors. Once you've ensured all the connectors are clean then go through all the sensors to verify they are outputting readings in the expected ranges. If your problem isn't solved by doing this then see if you can borrow a known good ECU. If the engine runs right with that then you know the ECU is hosed. Have you considered converting to Megasquirt? It's a very good alternative to trying to use a stock ECU on a turbo engine.

Shakav, I agree with Deja and your son regarding the driveshaft. I don't remember the exact dimensions for mine but it was much closer to 19" than 20" and I'm running the same engine/tranny combo you have. I set my engine as far back as possible so that might make up for some of the difference but I wouldn't risk it. You're also going to have to deal with the hood latch now that you're running a regular distributor. It might clear but be ready to hack the hood latch off if it won't. As for the steam vents, I routed mine into the upper radiator coolent return hose. I think routing them to the overflow tank would be a bad idea, it'll fill the tank relatively fast with no way to get the coolent back into the radiator. I also run the larger dampner and initially had no problem with it. I recently installed a Subaru PS rack which would not clear so I raised the front of the engine 1/2" by modifying the setback plates. It turned out very nice and made for better driveline angles. I'm not sure you could get away with doing that and still have clearance for your carb though, again it's something to experiment with. Good luck on the swap and keep us updated on your progress.

Ryan, I emailed you about the one I have, let me know what you want to do.

Well it sounds like the negotiations between the major F1 teams and the FIA broke down and they will go their separate ways. I was just watching the F1 practice sessons on Speed and they opened the program with news of the late announcement last night the following teams intend to form their own series: BMW Sauber Brawn GP Ferrari McClaren Red Bull Renault Toro Rosso Toyota I'm not sure what the beef is really about but apparently these teams are not happy with the proposed 2010 rules so are splitting with the FIA. These teams will form the FIA series for 2010, at least according the the Speed channel: Campos Grand Prix Force India Manor Grand Prix Team USF1 Williams I think this really sucks. It's worse than the IRL/CART split in the Indy Car Series.

Aux, This isn't a direct comparison with what you are asking but I think it's similar enough to be useful. I have an LT1 in my Z and have driven a warmed over LT1 powered F-Body (96) as well as a bone stock C4 Vette with an LT1 (I believe it was the last year of the LT1 powered Vettes) all on the same autocross course. The feel of all three cars was very similar as far as throttle response goes but the Z is much more brutal and accelerates faster due to the lower weight. I think you'll find the same thing with the LSx motors, the throttle response will be comparable but the acceleration will be much more intense in the Z. As far as the handling goes the F-Body felt heavy and sloppy, the Z felt alot like the Vette with a little sharper edge on turn in (probably the tires I'm running compared to the tires on the Vette). The only place the Vette really had the advantage was the brakes, but I'm running Toyota calipers with stock rotors in the front and stock drums in the rear. Hope this helps. I'd let you drive my Z but it's LT1 powered and I'm in WA state, even further than Fresno.

SuperDuner, Read the whole thread and you'll find part numbers for Celica inner tie rods that work with the stock Subaru outers. Be sure to read the whole thread though as there seems to be a point at which Subaru changed the size of the threads in the end of the steering rack. I used a 99 Forrester assembly which has 14x1.5 threads but one of the other guys used a later rack that had 16x1.5 which won't work with the Celica inners.

I realize this isn't Z related but it's very hard to find good information on most other car related websites so I'm asking here. This autox season I'm running a stock 92 240SX instead of the Z. The car REALLY needs a new set of shocks. I've done enough research to say I've narrowed the options down to either Tokico HPs or KYB AGXs. Seeing as I only plan to run the car this one season and it's my daily driver I don't want to spend a lot on high end shocks but I would like to upgrade from OEM. The springs I'm running are stock OEM and will not be changed otherwise I get kicked up to a Street Prepared PAX. Edit: I run in our local Street Tire class which allows cars from all SCCA classes except Street Touring to run on street tires (140 or higher wear rating) and use the PAX from their correct class. If I make any non-stock legal upgrades I get kicked to a Street Prepared class because the Street Touring classes are not allowed. I don't want to make this switch because I've already got season points where I'm at and don't want to spend the money to be competitive in an ST class. So which shock set would be a better buy? I have Tokico HPs on the Z right now but will move to something better when I switch to higher rate springs for next season, plus I need to section the strut tubes so will be replacing them anyway. I don't really have any complaints with them but have read that they tend to have a relatively short life when run with heavy springs. I won't be upgrading the springs on the SX so is this even an issue? The things I've read about the AGXs is the rears are under damped, but again with stock springs will this really be an issue? I know I should get Konis but they are much more expensive, a hassle to install, the rears must be removed from the spring to adjust and I really won't need them for street driving after this season. Any other suggestions are welcome but keep in mind I'm not looking for race shocks or coilovers just a good set of performance shocks at a reasonable price.

I owned a Ghia of about the same vintage as the one shown, mine was a 58, when I was in high school. It had a warmed over engine with dual Kadron carbs and a transaxle from a 66 bug. The front brakes were the original size but the rears were from the 66 bug so let's just say stopping from any appreciable speed was a real adventure and could only be done once before the brakes needed to be cooled. Unfortunately that car died an ignominious death when I was rearended by a mid 60s dart one night on the way home from work, to this day I hate Mopars because of that. I really wanted one of those Type 3 Notches as well, actually had the opportunity to buy one off of a car lot in Spokane while I had the Ghia but couldn't come up with the money. Thanks for sharing the pictures, brings back lots of good memories!!!

It creates micro black holes that will eventually destroy the universe so we better stop now!!!!

Boy do I look stupid now!!! Dave is completely right. I guess that's what happens when you switch back forth between several languages.

Another question to ask is why you decided to use doubles instead of floats. The float type has more than enough precision and range to handle the values you're dealing with and uses less memory. It's also just a style thing but it's much easier to read code where the variable being tested is on the left side of the == and the value on the right, like this (material == 2). Hyuri is correct about it being easier to use the standard C++ IO library (once you figure out the syntax) and scanf is a function I avoid like the plague, it has all sorts of issues. I've been programming in C/C++ for over 25 years and haven't used it for the last 20 of them. You can also calculate the square of a value using this symbol ^. Your area calculation statement then becomes area = 3.14 * radius^2;

Are you asking about mating the V8 to a Datsun 5-speed or a GM 5-speed? If you can find one a GM World Class T-5 is a decent choice depending on how much torque you're making and the type of driving you plan to do. Give us a little more info and we can give you a better answer.

Wearing a loose sweat shirt while using a wire wheel on my angle grinder. DOH!! I still have the scar from that one.

Jesse, You can use a 280 bar, they are mounted to the subframe in front of the diff and LCAs. I have one in my 240Z and it works fine. BTW: I bought the set from MSA and they are roughly the size JohnC recommends.

I've tried running with heavier springs in both positions (front and rear). I've found I can exit a corner faster with lighter springs in the rear but I also have to enter slower. With the heavy springs in the rear the car was pretty loose so I had to be more careful about when I got on the throttle and how much. The nice thing about going to coil overs is you have the ability to experiment with things. I started with the heavier springs on the rear, then after reading the posts on here about different setups I decided to try them on the front.

Are you saying you want 300HP NA, then plan to add boost later and this in a daily driver where you are worried about fuel mileage? Is this a realistic goal in any of the engines you mentioned besides the VH45?