Vintage-TechZ

Don't mention it. I'd love to see you do it.............. I even think I'll do mine this way. Lots of color with the CF tech added.

Thats awesome Joel that Tim came out to help ! SO glad to hear its running tight ! To your question about red hood etc. I think your car would look even more stellar if you simply had PARTS or AREAS of the CF showing. What I mean is....have just the lower lip of the airdam CF showing while the rest is red. Have the bulge of the hood remaining in CF while the rest is red. Have the interior of the headlight buckets show CF while the rest is red. And maybe even leave the backside of the tail spoiler in CF while its front-side is red.

If I've read correctly.......in order to pass, you'll need EVERYTHING emissions related the ENGINE was supplied with for its given year of build from Nissan.....NOT what the chassis came with. Also.....I don't think you can actually go backward in engine install>chassis.

I can, can,can't breathe.........................

I'm gathering it would be held to whatever the most configurable application that the V-8 would have been used in during any given production year....and whether it was fuel injected, carbed and or utilizing an ecu for you to run it and pass the sniffer. Am I far off here ??

My guy back home hasn't been by the shop lately to snap some pix....hopefully soon !

* If I swap in a MotorSport S38 into a clean 240Z will I kill the value of the car ? -Absolutely not. Only a purist would respond otherwise. * With the engine in its current form producing roughly 320 hp at the wheels will the stock diff manage the power? -It will live for a great while....replace it with a heftier version later when time and money allows.-( Q45-R200 +) * I'm planning on swapping in the engine and a 6 speed trans from the Euro e34 M5 (s38-b38) and wondering if this trans will fit the tunnel. It's roughly the same size (width/height) as a Getrag 260 but 3" longer. -I have lots of experience with the E34 drive-trains and would say that I do know the trans are compact and should fit the S30 tunnel. * As for the driveline are people taking the mounting flange (driveshaft side) to the stock Datsun diff and welding it to a modified BMW driveline ? Also, is there a center on the stock Datsun driveshaft ? - The S30 does NOT have a Guibo center carrier bearing, its a single shaft unit. Building your custom shaft will require the use of the Datsun diff end and tube/shaft welded to the BMW yoke end and then balanced. * The s38 oiling is front sump so I have a feeling I'll need to rework the pan.., not sure though. -You will need to explore this first with measurments from your motor mount choice or position and the pan plunge size. A customized oem pan is do-able due to it being cast aluminum,or go full custom pan. * Do the 240s have a power rack & pinion ? -No...rack and pinion....but power assist's have been done from the Subaru line. I have a M50 non Vanos for sale for anyone interested in doing the swap. It runs great and only had 80k on it. By the way...for those that referenced the Z4 S.I. N52 engines....those were a magnesium alloy block which gave them such light weight and 265hp. The Z4 M variant's had an iron block at 330hp. Oddly enough...the 70 hp difference barely made any difference in the 0-60 times and 1/4 mile distances. Although no one seems to have boosted the S.I. powerplants....there have been 100's of supercharged and a handful of turbo charged Z4's on the M engine making upwards of useable 450-550 hp.

Loud and clear and thank you !

I love these stories.............. I was turning 16 in about a year and had mowed enough lawns to qualify for my dad's demands/requirements to get a car. 1)-Cash in hand for entire car price of choice. 2)-12 months Insurance in hand. 3)-Enough spare cash to cover emergency repairs and one full set of tires. I always drew Ferrari's,Jag's and racing exotics.....but knew I'd probably never obtain the wealth for one. The Datsun S30 240-Z was to me, the sexiest lines for what I could swing. I researched everything I could find on them (pre-internet)....and decided I needed an early 70'. Looked everywhere for months and then saw one on a flatbed trailer heading back into town......pulled a illegal u-turn on a four lane divided highway ,went through the ditch median...and chased it all the way to a Toyota dealership and inquired within. They sold it to me for sticker price- (original). The owner had traded it in towards a 4x4 Toy. Sr22 truck after his son died who had originally purchased it. This would have been 1978... the car was 8 years old. I'll be 50 this November and still have it. But not for long...I no longer have the space to store it and it needs a big effort restore to be worth anything again. I fear the rust devils have gone too far to save her.....a once rust free early 70'. For-shame. It did fuel me for much modding and fabrication skills at an early age though....and about 30+ restores over time...most all Z'z. Here is what she looked like by the time I was 19 and the 280-zx turbo was out. I had ZX turbo rims, Semi-blk. drip rails, color matched bumpers and door pulls, shaved headlight buckets, dual Vitaloni mirrors (oem maker for Lamborghini), Hella fogs,Blk. side marker light trim , bumperette delete, And custom one-off tail light lens, Recaro leather seats and matching Dino steering wheel and door panels... and my first engine swap. The 2.8 Et efi engine and five-speed. Euro bushings throughout larger front and rear swaybars...2.5" exhaust and dual slashed tips along with stainless steel dash and console bits..

I may be misinterpreting this read..... but it still sounds like all directives require an original TYPE or series block...so no matter a straight six swap or not.....if it came with a 2.4 L series six cyl.....it won't pass with a 2.6 RB.....regardless of passing a sniffer. Am I wrong here ? I hope so................ Because if not......I wouldn't even get my S30 with a six cyl. 2.8et passed....let alone the RB26dett !

Currently, I still have the L28et turbo engine in place. So it would seem that I'll have issues with bringing an out of state car to register from the git-go unless the inspectors are not concerned.....however I'm not one of those people who gets away with something like this EVER. SO until I can make a relationship with a local smog shop.-(some of you are already there)...I'm probably not going to be unable to do this without making the L28et look more like a 2.4 carbed engine....I guess ? Which with my luck won't cut it either.

What a shame. I had no doubt that a pair of high cell cats and charcoal canister installed could get this engines tune within CARB specs and pass or surpass their test for nox etc. But from what you've stated they wouldn't waste their time to do so. So I'd assume that the cars I've seen driving and tagged got through their initial inspections by having the stock power-plants in the engine bay and reversed this at a later date and just took their chances on a random roadside check, just to do the dance over again in 2 years;).......that's alot of work just to be an enthusiast. I'd HAVE to have the L series motor in place since my initial registration will be inspected as an "Out of state" transferred vehicle. I cannot imagine them not opening the hood to verify under those circumstances.

This has been an interesting read for me. Particularly since I just moved to SoCal and have a few cars I'll be going through the whole 'out-of-state' processing. One point I'm still finding confusion in........are we held to the level of OEM eqpt. smog for the chassis car or the power-plant -(being newer) ? For example......73' Datsun S30 chassis.....with a Nissan BCNR R33 drive-train. The S30 had only the smog pump installed.....the never U.S. legalized BCNR came with zero U.S. compliance components. Does the Ca. law then default to their own by-laws to control your status or is this just stated as an illegal swap altogether in their eyes ? Or do they simply align a similar year of Nissan 2.6 liter engine for base-lining the U.S. compliance specs ? I certainly hope its not the emboldened remark above...............................................................................^

I have a set of 15" Centerline classics that have polishes rims and satin -(stock) centers. They are currently in Missouri -(I'm in SOCal). They are in awesome like-new condition too. I bought them new back in the day and kept them on the shelf for 12 years before I finally mounted them for Z. The rears do require a ZG flare minimum to be flush. Is this what your looking for ??

That's classic,lol.

Oh, ok...that is key note to have. Your keeping track certainly doesen't make you nerd-like. Its in fact a smart thing to note. Dummy lights are made for folks who don't even think to do that,lol. In some cases.....adding the cooler fuel slowly at first and then going abit faster after a few gallons can help. Maybe even try full clip speeds to see what happens ? On another note...can you smell fumes-(from gas) after your driving down the road following a fill-up ?

It could be that the fill neck abrupt angle change is preventing even the initial fill to need to be done more slowly ? Some cars just have to fill on the slow clip due to this . Often a nozzle has a liquid sensing device that is vacuum generated and will shut the nozzle flow off when liquid backs up. In this case, liquid may be backing up due to the fill neck configuration....maybe not. Is the nozzle clicking off before a fill ? Or is it just not allowing your tank to fill up at all, no matter how many times you pull the trigger ?

Brent.....couple of questions here. 1)-How long have you owned this Z ? DO you know its full history in the way of body damage repairs ? 2)- Are you trying to re-fuel with the gas nozzle at full clip/max delivery/fully compressed handle ? 3)-What is the most gallons you've dispensed in the past with this Z ? I ask #1 in case an explore of the fill neck and tank vent lines might need to be done. I ask #2 in case your car cannot accept full delivery, rather it might do better at 1/2 clip or less and then fuel fully. I ask #3 as a baseline study if we're getting anywhere . Cheers, Vinny

Oh, but it did indeed ! It was awesome fun. It made a car that already felt like it was on rails come even further alive. Also...I've never thought of this cars build as anything more than a spirited daily driver. Never meant to break any records of any sort. I was pleasantly surprised however how well it hooked from a dig. I thought it did well previously with just the addition of 10" wide wheels. I'm a little perplexed why you would toss in F1 tech when we are speaking about a non Aero type of build. All that engineered Aero almost automatically removes any theory of street car balance. But then again, i'm not much of one to debate. I'd just rather build.

That is shedding light where there is no darkness really..................... To your point then.....what would be the optimized purpose of stuffing a inline six into a roadster ? Bare in mind, while I did indeed go another route with the v6...my goal was to do ANYTHING but go backward in handling,acceleration,traction and daily drive-ability. I didn't even consider a LONGER motor because I wanted to spend the time elsewhere and not chasing good handling characteristics that would otherwise be gone. Please read this as if we're having a beer....I'm not trying to challenge you or make your statements discredited. Just see your point better.

I can see your angle here Leon.......even a Tractor can be made to impress. But why go there when such an optimized equation is in front of you ? I began choosing battles worth fighting/working out, to keep life fun. A challenge for challenge sake is a waste imho.

There may be, but placing the block that much forward of the front crossmember or axle-point is a bad execution for a well handling car. The main reason I went with a v6 turbo was to be one cylinder length behind that of the U20, therefore placing the block actually behind the crossmember. Which equates to better or improved center of gravity,weight ratio as well as more HP and Tq. An L-series 6 would make that car push like a plow.

I was waiting for you to growl at the video camera near the end,lol. I have the Wolf 3D still new in the box and have yet to install it. But it really sounds like the cycle of compression is missing the ignition timing fully. You are close. Your engine bay looks great btw !

Wash it good and in the sun look it over closely-(top to bottom) and I'll bet you'll find some denotations embossed from its maker like maybe ...Foha or Eberhart or someone like this.

Seems I recall the "Turbo Tail" was marketed through a brochure company like PB Tweeks at one time. Its a polyurethane molded one piece part with no finish aside from its black injection dye. Its a knock-off version of the popular Porsche rear wing/tail. You could lightly sand and prime/paint with flex additive to make it age and look better. But it would need to be handled with care so as not to flex too much and crack.