Vintage-TechZ

I was back in Mo. over Christmas and saw these in series...WOW, VERY nice. You guys will be so stocked to get these at your door !

What is your budget for this ? I live in Laguna Beach and have a recently re-built L28et , balance selected rods w/light prep,with special prepped head w/higher compression-( port matched,un-shrouded valves,3-angle valve grind). Polished turbo valve cover, high capacity oil pan, Custom aluminum high volume Intake manifold, ceramic 2k exhaust manifold w/custom stainless downpipe. Turbo is a Garrett T3/T4 also new. Tial 44mm wastegate. I am considering the sale of it all due to space constraints and having a full RB26dett and drivetrain. I just began to lay wires for a MegaSquirt v3. You'd only have to source an inter-cooler and associated piping and a blow-off valve . Saving you MUCHo time to get to this point,believe me ! -Vinny

For about 20 years I've relied on WELD THROUGH COATING for backside protection. Its a zinc based coating which bubbles up when heated red hot and permeates the voids and covers the oxidized metal where the welds are placed.....then cools and hardens. The spray is applied on the backside of patch panels and also on the interior if you can reach it. Let it set-up.....then weld. Works great.

....I'm crying I'm laughing so hard,lol.

Jerrod....looks like this auction made its way around the Net ! I had friends from around the globe pointing links back to it from every car genre',lol. Way to restore and kudo's to your marketing !! Loved the build quality for sure . Cheers,Vinny

Let me explain it this way..... 1)-Be sure and fit the body part (air dam etc.) as best you can by grinding,sanding etc. before you begin anything. Look at areas like the fender well to bumper cover zones...make them fit evenly and as perfectly as you like. 2)-Use aluminum tape thats 3" wide (available at all hardware stores for duct work) 3)-Place this tape against the painted area on your car that the body kit part will rest against or currently near. 4)-If you plan on using material such as rubber,double stick 3M tape or anything of the sort...remember that this stuff will add or displace thickness. So place these things on the aluminum tape and add another layer of alum tape to removal easier later and leave you with the best flush fit. 5)-It may be wise to lay more than one strip of tape or at least add more Masking type tape to protect your good finish on the body.(whether you use aluminum or Masking autobdy tape)-Polyester resin sticks to the paint,not to the tapes. 6) By laying neatly cut strips of fiberglass cloth (wetted) along the taped area that you've previously marked as the line where the bumper cover meets the body...about 3 layers in all will do, you've created the flange that will be later fiberglased to your cover permanently. 7)-Once the flange has cured...(DO NOT YET REMOVE IT)...re-fit the cover securely in place . 8)-working from underneath and above...fill the voids and gaps between the body and body part with more wetted strips of cloth until the full seam is secure. Use an 'L' folded cloth technique along the seam and let cure. 9)-You should be able to remove the whole part now from the car and finish bodyworking the part to perfection and no longer find the need to graft or stare at gaps once its all back together and painted. 10-I highly recommend using at LEAST a bicycle inner-tube cut rubber as a seal between the car and the part...both for friction avoidance and water and grit. Not to mention expansion/contraction guaranteed to eventually cause rust. 11)- The end result will be bumper covers etc. that will fit like they should have from the Mfr. in the first place. Cheers,Vinny

Paulo.....you might want to consider using a stick of PVC 1" or a 1"x1" lumber to screw to the width span when shipping .If your part is jigged correctly...you should be able to use the dam to fender bolt hole divots to attach with self tapping screws. Or...in the mean time,look up U-line dot coms website for an endless list of cardboard boxes that can be ordered in bulk to fit your needs.....but I'd still brace the airdams with a span bar like afore mentioned. Cheers,Vinny

Looks great Phil ! What a great feeling having come so far. I'm seeing blacked out trim and bumpers in my minds eye for later. Cheers,Vinny

Lets dispel this non fitting rumor. I've run mine this way over 20 years !I've done this to the 240,s.260,s 280;s etc. I won't drive a car without both mirrors...just too used to them for safety.They of course aren't an amplified image like later model cars.....but since the housing is stamped thin stainless steel, one could get around this with some delecate glass grinding and swapping ! Cheers,Vinny

..............You can do it Clint, one piece at a time.An hour or so a week if you get the time.The flairs look great....so does the red. Don't despair now, not after all of this. Vinny

Without pictures, I can only guess your damage extent. But usually...if there is substantial alium. removed, Heliarc welding can backfill. Then you'll need to reshape with air and hand tools until proper. Next will be lots of reduction sanding up to 2500-3000 grit wet n dry sandpapers. High speed directional polishing to finalize . Best of luck, Vinny

You can always install the black ZG's you have....even color match them later if you like to try that. Later on I can always use the Nismo zg flare molds and make a set of red/blk hybrid CF flares for it if you end up liking the red but want to be different ? Then , if you STILL decide to bond/graft the other flares on ...the ZG bolt holes will be gone. Options for you. .........Vinny

I'm not sure what to say Keith. I was preoccupied the other day when I missed your call,sorry about that. I'll tell my boss about your RB-Z and see if he was serious about considering one. Glad to hear your job situation is on the upsweep though ! My best.........Vinny

Believe me Bart......go to the best hardware store and pick up a bar of copper at least an eighth inch thick and grind the proper surface shape needed...eg:curve or flat ? I used epoxy to adhese the copper to a rare earth magnet flush to the inner piece. This way it can be reused and you don't have to screw with holding it. The rare earth magnet won't move if your mig wire taps it on start-up. Be sure and have a soaking wet paper towel next to you to immediatly cool the area after you nail it. Don't worry about rusting....the HO2 will evaporate dry.Warpage will be then avoided.Set your welder to a low voltage setting and don't forget to clean the walls of the holes with a bastard fine file. Best regards...............Vinny

Jeff, I can't recall you mentioning your cars paint color choice......this can have a big effect on your wheel choice pleasing your eye. I know when I was swapping wheels with my Green Turbo car....I thought I'd never be happy. I put on several types and sizes until finding what fit the look. Its DEFINATLY a personal task."To each his own"....as the saying goes. I do picture your car looking sexy with a set of Watanabe 16" 2-piece wheels from Japan. Also known as RS-8's since they were bought out. SSR I believe ? Anyway....you could procure a used set for 450-700.00$ and then disasemble and polish the lips (annodized currently) then sand blast and respray the centers in a color of your choice . Usually they are a dark grey single stage that lifts and crazes with Japans salt air. The 16's are pretty common......but you will need a slight spacer with their offset, although they are 4-bolt on our bolt centers.(stock that is)....mine is 5-lug these days.....and runs 17" Veilsides. Best of luck.........Vinny

Certainly not as nice as Daves, but here's some Autumn pix I took this year while walking for introspect.Man is Oregan pretty in those pix. () () () () () () 5.0 Mpixel Sony Cybershot....now broken,arrgh.Digital cameras are not robust like the old SLR's or yestur-year. ...........Vinny

That porting would be best left to the metal from a half inch stainless flange. Square transitioning into the round I.D. of the weld el.Works great . I usually mill a shallow instep onto the flange so the pipe/tube slip fits inward just abit. ..........Vinny 8)

Damn Brian ! You really busted a hump to get that all put back together on such short notice. Great effort ! I wished I could have been there to see it all happen. I'm sure Kenny from RB Motorsport was a great help speaking fluent Japanese. Keith ?.......did you hold the sun umbrellas ?? lol. .................Vinny