olie05

In the latest eurotuner, they featured a twin engine golf powered by two turbocharged vr6's. The best part is that he's using manual transmissions, not automatics to put down the power.

soccer is a very cool sport. I can't wait to see who wins Copa America... I hope its Brazil... cus i got $10 on them

from what I remember, that car had the same setup that dan described. He even did a burnout with one transmission in forward and one in reverse as the gross display of horsepower... If anyone is interested I could post more details if I can find the magazine article in SCC.

Yeah I'm talking about the old school inline 4's. I know the sr20 would be tight, but the l4 would be a challenge to get power out of and would mate up to the tranny (right?), which is one thing the sr20 doesn't do... I'm also thinking along the lines of autocross, if that helps you to understand my reasons for coming up with such a swap...

Has anyone swaped out their L6's for L4's? (l-series nissan of course) I thought of this when trying to find other ways to lighten up the z. Didn't an inline 4 come in the japanese z's? Also, what would be the Ideal inline 4 to run in a z? I know there was one that had a higher deck height... would that be the one to use for the long rod/stoke ratio? Thanks

What is goerz paeco? Is it a performance company? How do we contact them? WE NEED INFO!!!!

check it out: click here

Hello, I just installed my rebuilt engine in my car, but have not been able to start it due to the fact that I have no spark and the fuel pump is not humming right before the start position on the key. I'm pretty sure this is some kind of electrical problem, but I don't know where to start diagnosing it. All I disconnected (electronics) when I removed the old engine was the battery, HT lead wire from the coil, alternator wiring, and starter wiring. I didn't remove anything else that would cause the car to be acting like this. Could give me some places to stick my multimeter in to diagnose? Thanks!

so I did hear right... You want to put a powerglide on your rb engine! I'm not feelin' that idea. Im guessing your primary goal is to go fast down a straight line... No turns? I don't think street driving would be as fun in that car with an automatic... but then again I havent driven the car in the first place..

I'm thinking to replace the main bearings you have to drop the crank shaft, so you have to take out that cross member right under the engine, but then that holds the engine up... What you have to do is hoist the engine with a chery picker, drop that cross member and then get to work on the bearings. Personaly, I would take the engine out and work on it outside of the car... I can sympathize with you... My car was running perfectly before I took it apart (although the block had a rod through it) But now with everything connected EXACTLY as it was before, with no modifications to the electrical system, I'm not getting any spark or fuel. I'm thinking about that for sale sign too...

Have you pulled the valve cover off? When my old engine was running on 5 cylinders it was because the rocker arm on the head had fallen off. The cam wasn't opening the intake valve at all. It would be a coincidence that two adjacent cylinders would be doing this.

Hello, I just put in my engine about a week ago, and last night started to hook everything up. During the engine installation I accidently pulled to hard on a red wire that was connected to the positive (I think) side of the alternator. This red wire was spliced into three other wires. The three other wires were white with a red stripe. Is this correct? I know that when the car was running the charge light would always be on... Any wiring suggestions for when I go back to hook up that red wire?

I am using arp head bolt studs on a similar combination... Can I go over the specified torque of 60 lbs? I was thinking maybe 70... would that be ok?

cool, thanks for the responses. Once I get my z together (and before I start moding it any further) I will post the mpg since I have a completely stock set up as a far as drivetrain goes and see if I can maybe set a record! we'll see, one step at a time: Install engine, then drive.

Hello, I have recently been checking out the honda insight forum (insightcentral.net) and I started to wonder what kind of gas mileage I should expect when I start driving my car around (hopefuly by the end of april) i know the z's aren't designed to be economy cars, they are sports cars, but economy is important too. So I want to know what you all have experienced as far as gas mileage goes and what has caused this mileage (good or bad) such as modifications or driving techniques.

I agree, we need pics!!!! also, how did you buy it?? please explain the purchasing process.

I started thinking about it, and shouldn't we be able to run diesel fuel in our engines as long as were running a ridiculously high compression setup? (13:1+) It seems that diesel fuel works like high octane gasoline... Correct me if I'm wrong, (I probably am cus I don't know the first thing about diesel fuels...) But I want to know why were not using diesle.

I think you should probably replace the cracked piston, it's only going to get worse. as for the head it sounds like you are almost done with the head. A quick fix would be to drop a newer engine into there, but I did that and ended up throwing a rod The best choice (if your block is good) is to rebuild that. If you do get a used engine, make sure you torque down all the main bolts and rod nuts. It's only going to save you an engine and you can never be sure with junk yard engines.

I posted this on zcar.com and didn't get the answer i needed so I will post here... Is there a way of knowing that I installed the rings correctly? They caught a little on the way in, but I'm assuming that 's just the transition from ring compressor to bore. There are no scratches on the cylinder walls or anything obvious like that, but are there any little signs I can look for to know if the rings are on right? I just want to make sure I have the rings installed right before I torque down the head, but i'm too lazy to take all the pistons out and re-install...

Don't you still have the cam moving over a couple of degrees? You are shortening the distance to the cam sproket from the crank sproket, so you need to shim the camshaft up to put it back where it was and to move the timing back to the proper degrees. All you are doing with that mod is taking up the slack on the side of the chain that doesn't affect timing. (unless I am misunderstanding your mod) Another option I can think of is to use an adjustable timing gear and the tensioner you speak of, which would allow you to move the cam timing back to near stock position... Or you could just move the cam sprocket to the 2 or 3 timing positions, but you would be guessing how much you need to move it over.

Since you have a 280z block in there that means that you have a N42 head (I think). What I have heard is that Performance wise, I've heard good things about the N42, P79 and P90 heads. Since you have dished pistons in your block and you don't want to do anything to alter comp. ratio, I say go with the N42. It would probably be the easiest since you don't have to mill anything or change pistons to get a desirable compression ratio.

The N47 head is the same as an N42 head minus exhaust inserts to lower emissions... The N42 head Is preffered by many as a good performance head, so I say if you just port the exhaust ports to loose the inserts, it should perform as good or better than an n42 head. Also, If you put flat top pistons in the n42 block with an N47 or N42 head you get a N/A friendly compression ratio of 10.03:1, which is exactly what I'm doing with my engine. (taking apart engines sure is fun ) for more info you should read this page: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/head.htm He mentions something about cracks in the N47 head's exhaust seats. You should prob. check it out. Have fun!

From the '77 factory service manual for the l28: Ring groove width mm (in) Top...............................2.0 (0.079) Second...........................2.0 (0.079) Oil..................................4.0(0.157) Hope that helps.