olie05

http://www.komycars.jp/drag/z.html BTW theres alot to be found with the search function on this topic.

I'm running 10.03:1 on my setup... I have an N42 block (bored .040" over) and N42 head, the head is milled for flatness so that must raise the cr a little too, and I used flat top pistons to get the cr up. I've never run anything below 93 octane on this setup... (almost did once, but I didn't actualy do it). On that turbo cr stuff, I heard on this board a while back that you can't compare cr's of turbo cars and N/A cars, because once the turbo kicks in you're not dealing with static compression ratio, and if you have an intercooler the possibilities are much larger, because you can cram more pressure in without having as much detonation as an N/A engine would with the same amount of pressure... (or something like that) -Oliver

I think it would be very hard to do in a z with a skyline setup. Just look at the skyline and notice how far back the front wheels are and where the engine sits in the engine bay. The engine has to be almost completely in front of the front wheels, and to get it to fit, the engine would probably have to stick past the hood a little. Having the engine that far to the front and high up would raise the center of gravity and throw the balance of the car off. The only way to lower it back and down would be to make a custom oil pan with a mounting for the differential further up towards the front, and then extend the front driveshaft... IMHO I think its one of those things where if you have the time and money, go ahead and do it, but it seems realy impractical.

The original throwout bearing and collar work best, because nissan put in different height collars over the years, so make sure you use the one that matches your clutch and flywheel (ie. whatever combination is working now.) Also when removing those parts it helps if you clean off all the grease in the bellhousing with some engine degreaser. I couldn't figure out how to undo the clips on the throwout bearing and fork until I removed all the caked on grease. I don't know about the drive shaft so I won't say anything about that. good luck with the install! -Oliver

The 89-91 240sx sohc clutch interchanges with the datsun clutch... and many manufacturers make double and triple plate clutches for that application.

I'll keep that in mind when I start making the manifold, but where should i get the velocity stacks from?

Aight heres my plan: I'm going to use the flange from the webbed intake manifold since it holds itself together and bolt on some velocity stacks (since the intake is aluminum and the velocity stacks most likely won't be aluminum so I cant weld it easily) and weld together a box to seal the velocity stacks. Then I will use a 240sx throttle body and cable set up. I want to know how big this box should be, the velocity stacks i've decided should be about as long as the stock manifold (after reading the other intake manifold post). This setup would place the injectors in the stock location, would I be able to run this on the stock ecu until I decide to go megasquirt? Oh yeah, where do I get velocity stacks this long with a bolt on flange?

Well I guess I won't try this turbo thing out on this engine without lowering the CR first. I thought there might be an intercooler and low boost set up that might have worked but I'm just going to stick with NA for now.

I saw one on ebay for a 240z. I was wondering if anyone knew where to get one for a 280z? I don't care how "ricer" they might be I still think they look cool!!!

Hello, Mike (on3go) offered to let me use his turbo when he got another one for his blue z... This got me thinking about the possibilities of a "high cr" turbo engine. (I assume this is high for a turbo engine as I am only supposed to use premium gas as it is) A turbo on this engine would have no lag... but the problem is detonation. I want to avoid it at all costs. The way to do this would be through engine management and intercooling (I think) Would it be easier to convert to megasquirt and the electronic distributor, or could I get by with swapping to the turbo FI? What type of intercooler would I need to keep this thing under control? What psi's would I be looking at to run? I need to run this thing on 93 octane!!! very important!!! Please note that this is in the planning stage and I realy don't plan on turboing my car for a while... Also note that I am currently running an N42 block and head. I could easily switch to a p90 head for an 8.7:1 cr but I would lose the whole point of a high cr turbo engine. Thanks! -Oliver

Nice seat Mike! How's the break in going?

the 12mm refers to the size of the bolts that hold the center section to the ring gear. This post will help you understand more about the swap: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97370 -Oliver

I remember reading somewhere that it started in the last half of 87 production year when they started putting in the 3.7lsd.

You know about the 3.7 clutch lsd from the late 87-89 300zx turbo? The LSD part of this differential will bolt onto your ring gear of the "3.545" (its actualy 3.54545454545.... 'cus of the 39:11 but wtvr) that is probably the cheapest option for lsd in that gearing differential, short of a phantomgrip which is not going to last very long or work as well anyways. You can also get a quiafe, or anyother aftermarket lsd set ups out there. Just search google for r200 lsd's and something should come up

just get some jackstands and pave a section of all that as a driveway... much safer than anything else. BTW I like the oil cooler! -Oliver

BINGO! I went to adjust the valves yesterday, and as soon as I took the valve cover off noticed my headlight wiring to the left headlight was flat because it was pinched under the valve cover. As soon as i fixed that the car fired right up with absolutely no problems! While I was in there I checked valve clearances and everything was ok but my valves still tick a little. Maybe i'll do a REAL valve adjust in another 6000 miles... -Oliver

hello everyone, My valves started ticking today as i was driving, so I went home and after taking off the valve cover noticed that the locknut for one of the valves had become loose. I could actualy move the locknut by hand. Anyways, I got to adjusting the valves, and I did a half-ass adjustment where i checked which ones REALY needed to be adjusted and adjusted those. (I was already late for a dinner so i did it as quickly as i could) Well, when i went to start the car i got an 800rpm start up and then the engine just died. I ended up raising the idle adjust screw until it would stay alive but it felt like it was misfiring slightly. The loose valve was only opening about 3/4 of the way it should have, when I adjusted it to full operation should the idle have gone down like it did? I thought it should have gone up, cus there was more air flowing out of the cylinder, less restriction. (right?) When i wake up I will just thoroughly adjust all the valves and hope it fixes everything, but does anyone have any thoughts on why the car would miss and die after i first adjusted the valve? Thanks, -Oliver

I guess those wheel adapters work, but your wheel selection is limited to that huge 5 lug pattern on the wheel. The volkswagen pattern on the 4 lug part of the adapter will require yet another spacer to fit the z... just saw second link... n/m the part about the extra adapter... you're still stuck with the wide five though...

I have yet to see adapters that will convert 4 lug to 5 lug.

As far as junkyard seats go, i just installed the crx si seats in my car. They are readily available at my junkyards and i got mine for 34 bucks for the pair! Only problem i came across was that my car has the hump for the catalytic converter on the drivers side, so it kind of throws the drivers side off to the left a little, but some "clearancing" with a hammer fixed most of that. Anyways here is a pic: Picture was taken by mike (on3go) -Oliver

I got bored...

Texas z meet perhaps? oh wait, isn't msa comming to dallas in 05?

Yeah I went to the same machine shop that mike did and they did the same thing to my block. I did the same to the oil pan gasket surface, because they painted that too. I was not amused, so i took a paper towel with some paint thiner to it, and got all the paint off. You'd think they would figure it out, building all those motors... 4 psi? hehe my car may actualy be able to keep up with that! -Oliver