olie05

That's what I was doing to get the crank to move front to back. I would just tap it (hit it) on the flywheel flange or the front piece. ... If I did this with the thrust bearing in there (along with the other bearings) shouldn't it have "cradled" the bearing against the block? And if that is correct then my feeler gauge tests and micrometer tests should be relatively accurate, right?

I just used the bottom of my micrometer where it has that little thing that comes down to measure different depths. I just measured the endplay again and it was less than .003" but when I took it apart, the thrust bearing surfaces were very well oiled. While the crank was installed I checked thrust-bearing clearance with feeler gauges (first .003" then .002") and neither gauge would fit in either side of the thrust bearing. I'm guessing I have something like .0005" endplay... so I guess I'm going to mill it down .0015" on each thrust bearing face. I'm just scared of having the crank floating around too much...

Thanks, I thought any endplay was bad on a rebuilt engine. I will go home and check it properly.

Will I end up cutting out the indention for the bumper ends? I was originaly planning on smoothing that over (bondo perhaps?) but if I just cut it off that part of the metal it would be alot easier...

I just finished doing the milling on the thrust bearing. It needed to be milled 0.0019" according to my micrometer, so I took equal amounts off both sides. I used 320 grit sand paper and sanded in a circular pattern. I got the endplay to almost none at all(my measurements weren't accurate so I wont post them) but I could barely move the crank front to back. It still spun freely. It was much better than if I had sent it back to the machine shop for them to do it. Moderators- I meant for this to be a reply to this post http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=31737&highlight= I accidently hit new topic.

I'm planning (soon) to get a front air dam, probably from msa. I am planning on taking off my ugly bumper in the front and leaving the open mouth look. I don' t like any of the aridams I see for the 280z so how hard would it bee to just remove my turn signals (280z) and install some 240z turn signals to fill the holes in the 240z aridam? This kinda goes out to Mike (on3go) cus I just noticed that you were doing something similar (from the info on your website)

What is the highest RPM's an L-series engine can take before things start breaking... and also, what will break first?

Are you going to be using the stock manifold somehow or are you going to weld a custom box to the flange around the stacks?

I just talked to the guy at the machine shop, and he said that I have to clearance my thrust bearing to fit (for front to back movement). He said that I could either do it at home or he could do it for me. Do you think that a file and micrometer gauge will be adequate or should I take it back to the machinist and get it milled perfectly?

Get the mechanic to decarbonize as much as he can while he has the head off. Whatever else he's doing to the head should be fine... Anything else would require a block-type rebuild. Decorbonization in the biggest thing I can think about right now.... so good luck translating that to him.

I think you're pretty much by yourself over there... My sister lives in lubock (texas tech) and I own a z but I live in houston... Does that count?

Hi everyone, As some of you all may know, I will soon be putting together my High compression engine, and there are a few things I want to know to be able to drive this thing on the street. First of all I will be running 10.3:1 compression. Of course I know about running premium octane (93) but I am a little confused about how I should time everything. Should I put the timing gear on a different position? Also, how should the ignition timing be set up? Thanks!

Well, My z was born to me in july 2003. It was the first time I had ever driven a z, sat in a z or even seen a z this close up before. I only had an idea of what was going on from reading the forums and doing a little research in the 6 months before i bought it. I had won the car on e-bay but didn't pay the guy till i got there and saw that the car could be driven home ( I wasn't going to have it shipped. ) after I bought it I had to fix a few things on it ( get the headlights to work and check it for driveability ) and then I was on the road. The car ran ok (on a loose u-joint) but I later found out that we had also driven back on 5 cylinders. And that's how I got my 1977 280z... Just a side note from zguy95135's signature : "Officer, I wasn't tailgating... I was drafting" on the drive back, i had to drive the minivan half the way and I pulled up behind this bus... I opened the windows a crack, and when i got about a foot away from the bus, there was no sound from the windows (70mph) Crazy, I know but there was no traffic and a constant speed... I had to try it!

I like the idea of working on the drivetrain and messing around with the body of the car you have now. Later you can buy a straight chassis and transfer all the parts and your v8 conversion if you do it. That is pretty much my plan with my car. It's starting to grow some rust and stuff, so instead of sanding it all down and cutting and welding I will just not spend too much time on this car's bodywork and transfer everything to a better body later. I just wish I hadn't invested as much money as I did before i realized the deplorable body condition. Oh well live and learn...

If you used the stock 280z fi intake and put carbs on top of that, you'd end up with carbs sticking out of your hood! If you realy want to go carbs, why not go for the tripple setups available? Those probably have the most even fuel delivery to each cylinder (without starving any of them). Of course I still think that carbs are inferior to fuel injection, especialy when fuel injection can be hooked up to aftermarket ecu's and be tuned out... My opinion.

On my 77 280z the fuel guage fuse (5a) went out and rendered the tach useless until I replaced the fuse. Just check the basics (wiring, grounds) before you start any major tach rebuilding or swap projects... N/M I just read your last post... You should probably take your tach apart and figure out what's wrong...

those wheels aren't rice at all... If you cant picture them on a civic then its not rice. Please don't put those wheels on a z!!

How can anyone that owns a honda s2k be that dumb about nitrous? Even I knew that nitrous went in the intake before I actualy knew what it actualy did or was...

do you have any pics of the wheels?

I don't know why you're burning out your headlights but if you want to do a quick fix solution just chop off the harnesses to the headlights and wire them up directly to the battery using relays and switches. I did this after having a problem where all the other lights would work well except the headlights which were too dim. Just an idea...

Check out this website: super bright leds They have all kinds of leds and you can cross-refference using their link to the sylvania website.

I'm having trouble trying to figure out where this wire (yellow w/ black stripe) connects to the alternator. I forgot to mark it before I took the engine out so I'm not sure if it even goes to the alternator. My battery isn't getting charged so I'm guessing I don't have the voltage regulator connected properly. Thanks

I encountered the exact same problem you are having with the exact same bolts. I did what my father knew to do and tried the easy outs and we ended up breaking 3 off in the screws before we decided to try something different. What I finally did was drill out the studs with drill sizes going up in small increments and re-taping the hole. So far this has appeared to hold up and was much less frustrating than breaking off ez outs. Save yourself time and headaches: drill the studs out and re-tap.