olie05

more sheetmetal!!!

This morning I was opening my car, and I almost broke the key off in the lock, because of all the force I had to apply for it to open. How do I fix this? Do I take it apart? Is there a way for me to fix this without taking out the lock from the door? (maybe greasing up the key and just turning?) I can't keep this up, cus I know one day this key is going to break off in there and I'm going to be screwd!!! -Oliver

I realy like the look of the sheetmetal and bent tubing!! It's kinda like a hardcore version of the new mini's interior accents. -Oliver

That is amazing!

This is a picture of dan juday's car, while it was being worked on... http://www.zparts.com/showcase/djudayv8proj/shoot2/pages/14DJ_R2_.htm For the ZG's I would suggest cutting only the top part, because the flare is not that big anyway. This way you get the tire clearance that you want on a lowered car. Seems like you would only have to cut out the sides if you were going with some HUGE tires. -Oliver

take a long screw driver, put your ear up to the big end and touch the engine (in various places) with the other end and listen around the engine until you pinpoint where the noise is comming from. If it is coming from the block, I would suggest not driving the car until you retorque everything in the bottom end, rods primarily. Hopefuly it will just turn out to be the valves, or something simple like that. -Oliver

hashi, ITB's are generaly an N/A thing. If you buy a turbo motor, you will have a low compression ratio, somewhere in the 7:1 range iirc. If you are planning to run it with the ITB's in N/A form it will be slow because of the CR... The turbo block is a good building point regardless, so If you throw some flat tops in there, or flat tops and an N42 head, then your cr will be up and N/A will actualy be fun. Otherwise get the turbo motor, leave the turbo on it, and run it till it dies! -Oliver

If it was me I'd start with another head from the J/Y to not have to worry about having stuff torqued insufficiently... But you may not want to do that since you already have so much work into this head already. -Oliver

my left rear shock absorber is siezed... I bet its the same as riding on a 500lb/in spring. not fun.

It's good to hear from people that know what they're talking about! Thanks for the replies... and if anyone has anymore suggestions go ahead. I'm going to save the money and buy a kit with all the things mangum mentioned... so probably no nitrous for a while (or at least until I get a job ) -Oliver

oh yeah... but watch out cus next time I may be sprayin...

Good info magnum, but for now, before the nitrous bug bites me completely, I can just use a wet single shot 75 safely? What the worst that could possibly happen with this kind of setup? -Oliver

14.849 @ 90.76!! I honestly didn't think I would get into the 14's. I had alot of fun! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98238

I went drag racing and did a 14.849@ 90.76... I'm thinking about nitrous just for when I go drag racing cus I kinda wanna be somwhere in the 13's... so I can beat my friends 350z and stand a chance against my turbo z buddies. So, I found this website that shows you how to build a nitrous kit using a fire extinguisher bottle and running all the lines, and you just plumb it all up to a selenoid and an actual NOS jet. I want to run a wet system, ~75 shot. Keep in mind I have 10.03:1 cr with stock FI... Will nitrous be safe on this motor? I've heard alot of people say spray it, but I want to know what I'd be getting into (I don't want to blow up my engine!!!) -Oliver

So I finally went drag racing last night.... These times are with my "throttle body mod" and 3.9 diff, and I didn't get around to installing the electric fan, which may have cut down another tenth... Let me know what you think! Sorry I don't have a scanner so I will just write in all the info. R/T 1.122 60' 2.565 330 6.645 1/8 10.026 mph 73.12 1000 12.978 1/4 15.488 mph 89.57 R/T 1.012 60' 2.414 330 N/A 1/8 9.827 mph 73.21 1000 12.795 1/4 15.318 mph 89.19 R/T .580 60' 2.187 330 N/A 1/8 9.558 mph 73.14 1000 12.508 1/4 15.007 mph 90.02 R/T 1.084 60' 2.139 330 N/A 1/8 9.512 mph 73.31 1000 12.456 1/4 14.961 mph 89.74 R/T .954 60' [highlight]2.095[/highlight] 330 N/A 1/8 9.468 mph 73.23 1000 12.425 1/4 14.939 mph 89.45 R/T .845 60' 2.117 330 N/A 1/8 9.452 mph 73.98 1000 12.372 1/4 [highlight]14.849[/highlight] mph [highlight]90.76[/highlight] -Oliver

Went to work on the fan install today. I didn't get it in, due to not having planned for anything to hold it to the radiator, but I got it in as long as I held it up. I had to mount the fan offset to the exhaust/intake side of the engine, and I had to cut all the fan shroud supports on the passengers side of the fan, so now the fan motor is only bieng held to the shroud by three of the supports on the driver's side. With all this cut away, the fan easily clears the water pump pulley, but the problem seems to be in the crank pulley, where the fan motor support rubs even with extensive clearancing. I will probably end up just throwing it on in front of the radiator to be on the safe side... ( I don't like the possibility of it hitting the crank pulley ) Hope that helps someone in the future! -Oliver

Awesome!!! I just bought a 2 speed taurus electric fan for my L28 haha. Ok so heres a question for materchan, What position did you mount it in and how much is "extensive" cutting? -Oliver

Thats not the look I want... I actualy want the front opening of the l88 hoodscoop to line up with the front edge of the bulge on the original z hood, and the back opening of the l88 hoodscoop as pictured above in the link, to function as a cowl induction opening.

Good idea with the sectioning! So far I have only ground down the area to as little as i thought possible while still keeping both sides of the shaft intact. Tonight I will remove the rest of it! I'm realy interested in what this would translate as horespower numbers. 1-2hp, probably less?

I did some more research and found an excellent velocity stack website : its like velocity-of-sound.com or something like that. Anyways, the stacks Im looking at would likely be made out of aluminum, and the box would probably be out of aluminum or sheetmetal... Seeing as how I have very little welding experience and this is aluminum, could I get away with getting everything to close tolerences and JB welding it up? (Mosly for sealing) -Oliver

I was in the garage looking into my spare intake manifold. I opened the throttle to WOT and I realized for the first time how much area the throttle pivot point(?) takes up in relation to the opening of the throttle body. (Stock throttle body) Since this is a spare.... I decided to file down the excess material that is not needed and is only blocking the flow of air... I am essentialy making the air flow easier over the throttle plate at WOT. Am I crazy or will this actualy work a little? -Oliver

Does the L88 hood scoop from MSA extend all the way to the end of the hood? I ask because I saw this pic of it installed on a z and don't like it anymore... http://drag.race-cars.com/carsales/other/1078343110/1078343110lf.htm What I want is something that takes the z's hood bulge and extends that angle down into the hood and a hole in front of that and in front of the hole, a little lip...I don't want something that looks like an add on. -Oliver

i'm with ed on this one... lol Save your cash for next time you race a corvette and spike the boost!!!... How bout an LSD? The only other thing on there i can think of that would actualy benefit your car the most would be the springs.