Cruez

If you are good with a dremel, you could make a slight impression in the caliper and fill the void with whatever paint you want

Holy mother pussbucket......thats a freakin monster..

Anyone???.. How about if I just got another distributor with an optical pickup??... Which car can I pull the distributor off of ??

Backfiring through the carbs?....make sure the ignition timing is correct...

Looks like I'm closer than you think...I work in Newton...

11:6?..What head/block are you using?.. I think I'm running 10.75:1 in mine...she very picky about ignition timing..Also left the stock clutch in it....slips real good hitting hard 1-2 shifts...I think the 2+2 flwheel/clutch should do the trick...best 0-60 in it was 6.27 not long after rebuild...after tweaking the airflow meter...now all the stock FI electronics are gone and replaced with Haltech...waiting to put in a MSD part to get her back on the road...I cant wait

hmmm....I still am seeing a bunch of x's

Still got nuttin...

Hey Drew... Is that your Gold Z in your pics??? Never cared much for gold but that car is sweet..!

Hey Phil, I like your taillight mod. Looks great. I was looking at maybe putting in a 240SX rear light setup...What setup is that in yours???

Hey 2Adz...the photos aren't showing up for me there..

Theoretically, In my head I dont see why you couldn't put a 265 or 283 crank in a sb 400 block. I dont have a whole lot of experience building Chevy engines...all of them have been mainly Datsun L series, Would this combo work...would seem to have a high revving engine with a little more displacement than the 302..

Ok here goes...I need some opinions... I have decided to give my new Z (75-78) a chebby transplant... I want it to be fuel injected....at some point, either in the beginning or possibly later.. I originally wanted to build a chevy 302 and put in it for the rpm range. Then I thought well, how about a 327 instead of finding all the parts to put together the 302. I also want the T56 behind it. So, what would be the better route: 1. LT1 and T56 pullout? 2. LS1 and T56 pullout? 3. carburated SBC and T56, and later add EFI? Seems that adding a Vortech or something similar would be easier on the LS1 and LT1 if I did that later on. But I could build the SBC and get parts cheaper and have more selections of parts. Decisions, decisions...

Hey guys....the SHO engine is not as hard to work on as may seem. I just changed my Timing belt, Water pump and crank sensor about 2 weeks ago on my '91 SHO. It is just a little time consuming..The first try it took me about 8 hrs for the timing belt and water pump....then I had to take it all apart again to replace the CPS I forgot, then it only took me about 3 hrs total. Being a front wheel drive car...that is the pain. If it were a RWD it would have been a piece of cake. The SHO's got slower practically every year they ere produced..The '89-91 models being the fastest of them all..the next gen 6 cly SHO's were a bit slower due to weight. The V8 models were the slowest.

Not sure but close to .030 What about alternatives?

Jamb a piece of angled wood between the chain and shove it hard....it will keep the chain from moving. Then unbolt it....

Hey guys....new to the board... I've been messing with Z's since I turned 16...And have always had at least one... Anyway, I have installed a Haltech in my '78 after doing mods to the engine that the stock FI couldn't keep up with. I am at my last stage but I cannot get the magnetic pickup to work correctly, I put a MSD 8509 signal converter but it doesnt create enough signal at startup. I took out the distributor and if I turn it fairly fast, the signal is fine.... What other alternative can I do that it fairly cheap?...I am on a tight budget...

Not sure about the ZX....The digital speedo I had only said 85... But my N/A '78 Z hit 132 at the top of 4th gear..with its 4 spd. I still have to put the T5 in it though. Then it could go a little higher...