Cruez

Check the sensor on the pass side of the block... I have seen it cause the same symptoms..

I am considering this for a swap...... I have a '91 SHO and its been great. That engine pulls hard up to about 6800 in stock form.... The only part I am reluctant about is fitting a 5 speed to it... If I can't have the manual tranny, I'm not doing it... Looks like there is a way...but how much expense and aggrevation is added??.... Just not sure yet.....

NGK for sure... After building my engine it ate a set of Bosch Platinum and a set of Bosch supers... both within 15 minutes... Put in a set of cold range NGK's and put 1000s of miles on them....

Looky here.... another one....in a tree.. hmmm something strange is happening I wonder if Santa Claus is sacrificing them...

Nice..... all of it What are your seats out of???..

All these wheel deals and I'm in a cash crisis!

Thanks for the smart ass reply...j/k I'll have to fool around with it.. Oh...I have a plate....on a few other engines I have lying around...Just didn't put it on when I built the engine...

LOL! That was hillarious....especially going aroung the curves..

Have a quick question.. The plate that has the timing mark on the block....Will it only go on in one specific place.. The block thats in mine was void of the timing plate and I need to get the EXACT TDC . Is it just a matter of putting another one on, or is there going to be more involved.....( this is on an L28 block)

What a moron...

Tried it last night... So far, the demo is pretty good... If they get the damage and exhaust notes right for the full release...It will be great

I'm glad there are a few of us running them on Z cars... That way I can spead along my headaches for you all to enjoy

I can't remember off the top of my head but I think my brother is running an F3 on his turbo 240Z.. I'll have to check and see....if so. It seems to be ok, just not as precise to tune as newer models.... but if it works, thats pretty cheap...

Cool.. I got my E6 hooked up the other day also...got spark but no injectors are firing.. I may have not loaded the fuel map right though

Well, I'll probably get hammered for saying this...but I didn't replace mine when I put a new cam in... I did inspect them very carefully and ended up using them. They have been on there around 15000 miles or so...so far with no noticeable wear on the cam.

hmmm.. Put a test light on the wires downstream of the battery connection to confirm that its getting power. You can't tell if its getting a good connection unless you test it... Also check your fuse links also....that may be a culprit also..

YES thats it... you got it... the blue wire may be something somebody added for a stereo or fog lights etc... but the rest of it you got right...

Great story... I am not alone My wife doesn't understand it either....come to think of it...none of my friends would understand.. It has been in my yard unstarted for 3 years now since I completed the first phase of construction and after driving it for a year or so.. I had a guy wanted to trade me a 325i BMW for it..I said "No way".. even though it was worth more...in $$$$ anyway.. If given the chance to have any new car for $30,000 or cash to do whatever to mine...I would take the cash. I spent many 3:00am nights working on that car and have become attached.. you can't put a price tag on that... Unless you are filthly rich , then I might be persuaded..

I think I'll try relocating the ground somewhere else...and check for the strap. Whats the best thing to put on the cable ends to prevent rust?? lithium grease?...wd40....oil?...

I'd take it off the day I bought it.... Plus its a rust trap also....

If I remember correctly, one of those leads off the battery terminal is for the computer itself. One way I used to check my pump when it was turned on was to push on the flap in the AFM.. I think the lead was red or white ...or both (they are not on mine anymore)

Comp ratio is about 10.5:1. The cable had preterminated ends so that would eliminate that factor.... Now that the ground strap was mentioned... I can't recall if I have one or not... I'll have to take a look.

Ok, I have a high compression L28 that has giving me fits about the battery cables... It seems that the engine puts alot of strain on the starter and battery cables... I switched to 00 gauge cables and it seemed to help a bit, but the ends of the cables get very hot when starting....not to mention it the starter turns slowly.. is there a better ground I can use than the bolt on the tranny.... and does this sound like a bad connection....?? A normal battery will barely turn the engine....

Well I am in the process of installing a Haltech E6, but haven't got the injectors firing yet.. (it will retard the timing when I have it programmed) When I turned it over it was turning pretty slow... and with no fuel its not fighting the charge.. I have a stock starter on it at the moment....