Mayolives

Unfortunately, there were problems with the original 383 sbc. After, much thought, it was determined that another engine needed to be built, including using another 350 block. Here are some recent pictures of the new build. (February 2010) A pair of AFR heads will help this thing breate.

I know that I'm a dumb a##, but how do I access the user control panel?

Mike, I assume that it has a removable hard top. If so, will it fit back on or do you plan to run it with the open top? By the way, nice job!

I used Blouch turbo. They are a Garrett dealer and I think they are located in PA. They were easy to work with and the turn around time was good. http://www.blouchturbo.com

Winter weather and other issues have prevented me from testing the new setup. My most recent opportunity to run the car at Virginia International (VIR), was canceled due to snow in Southern Virginia. Also, we discovered that I had virtually no droop of the rear suspension when the car was jacked up so the shocks weren't able to do there job. I reworked the strut tubes and now should have the shock centered at static ride height, allowing them to rebound and compress as intended. I plan to test the car at Carolina Motorsports Park (CMP) in a few weeks and will post my results

My buddy, here in sc, just had the company who owned his 250 lb tank, remove it from his house. It was not buried. He purchased a 125 lb tank and now hauls it to be refilled and is paying about 50% compared to the original cost. But now he needs to deal with it himself. He only uses the gas for his fireplace and will go through about three of the new tanks per season. I'm not sure that the hassle is worth the savings.

Very cool. I want one. There goes the good gas mileage on my jeep.

I agree with all the comments from other member listed above and the judging the car from the pictures, it looks nice and the present price is in the ball park. With that said, you really do need to inspect it in person. If you are buying it as a driver and are ok with the auto transmission, then it's even better. If your plan is to do a bunch of modifications and change to a manual gear box, then the car becomes less desirable. Early cars with good bodies are hard to find and can certainly fetch a higher price. Repairing the body can became very expensive but this one appears to be solid. Apparently you both live in the great state of TX so hit the road, take a close look at it and let us know what you find.

From time to time most of us complain about something that hasn't gone according to out expectations when dealing with a Z car parts supplier. I'm not referring to a normal parts supplier like Advance Auto, O'Reilly, Auto Zone and the like. I'm referring to the very few suppliers that are still developing and selling parts specifically for our Z cars. The few that come to mind are Arizona Z Car, Modern Motorsports, Techno-Toy, Beta Motorsports and the others out there who still can provide us with quality parts and advice when needed. I'll emphasize "few" because there are not many left. I'll assure you that these suppliers are not getting rich manufacturing and selling limited quantities of parts for our 30 year old cars. Most could do much better by concentrating on the market for Honda, BMW, Mazda and so forth. These suppliers do what they do because they also have an interest in our old cars. We as a group of enthusiast, would be in a world of do-do without their support and need to support THEM and purchase what we can from them, even if that part we need could be bought on Ebay for three bucks less. And when they don't respond to our emails quite as fast as we want, remember that most of these guys need to support their lives by working another job. One of the reasons for this post was an email I received from Dave at AZC and this link to some new parts he is working on. http://www.arizonazcar.com/newparts.html Where else can we pick up the phone and order the correct stub axle we need, or the light weight rear hatch and hood, or the correct Koni shock complete with installation instructions, the hot big brake kit or the new emergency brake setup that Dave refers to in his email? Where would we be without their support and input? So I'll stop rambling and continue to do my little part to support these few remaining suppliers and hope that they stay in our corner.

Yes, I'm guilty as charged about the spoon feeding thing. Sometimes I'm just a nice guy that remembers all the dumb ass questions and comments that I have posted over the years and some nice guy spoon feed me. I'll try to toughen up!

Opps.......Here is the 280zx differential information. 280zx 79 S130 4 Speed Manual R180 Long 3.364 280zx 79 S130 5 Speed Manual R180 Long 3.364 280zx 79 S130 4 Speed Manual R200 Long 3.364 2+2 280zx 79 S130 5 Speed Manual R200 Long 3.700 2+2 and GL 280zx 79 S130 Automatic R180 Long 3.545 2+2 and Coupe 280zx 80 S130 5 Speed Manual R180 Long 3.545 280zx 80 S130 5 Speed Manual R200 Long 3.900 2+2 and GL 280zx 80 S130 Automatic R180 Long 3.545 2+2 and Coupe 280zx 81-83 S130 5 Speed Manual R200 Long 3.545 All Turbo 280zx 81-83 S130 5 Speed Manual R200 Long 3.900 All Naturally Aspirated 280zx 81-83 S130 Automatic R180 Long 3.545 All Naturally Aspirated

I know that our comments should be constructive in nature and that "to each his own" is a good motto to follow, but I am left speechless. That car is a thing of beauty and fills me with inspiration to press on with my aero modification ideas.

280z 75-76 S30 4 Speed Manual R200 Long 3.545 280z 77-78 S30 5 Speed Manual R200 Long 3.545 280z 75-78 S30 Automatic R180 Long 3.364

Out first ride together was in a 240 and after adding about thirty more years to the equation, z cars are part of our life together. I'll probably have one around when they carry me out.

QUOTE:"Heading down a slippery slope because we are never going to get concensus on this." Scottie After a supplier has been picked, let's do a poll with a finite ending date for the voting, then pull the trigger. I think it's a good idea for the website to profit from this endeavor. There is a lot of time, effort and dollars required to keep HBZ up and running and this could help that cause a little.

I don't know Tony. That thing sounds like your everyday, ho hum, run of the mill z car that we see day in and day out. But maybe the powers that be could squeeze it in somewhere. TeeHeeHee!

QUOTE: "I got the clutch, clutch slave, clutch hose, new starter, new fluid, new shift knob, resurfaced flywheel and alot of time... Now would be a good time to replace the T/O bearing and the pilot shaft bushing.

[quote "thanks for the compassion." Many of us are running coil overs and the installation process is somewhat involved but it's not rocket science. Spend some time and read about what others are doing and using. The strut housing normally will need some modification and you will need to decide what you are going to do with the mounting plate on top and so on. Narrow down your choices and then we can give you detailed help. IMHO, and unless you are experienced, it's always better to source the parts you will need from someone who has specific experience with our Datsun z cars and is willing to be there when you need a question answered or a problem dealt with oin a timely manner.

I'll try to help you before someone other member who isn't as nice as I am, jumps on you. FIRST, use the search feature and do some reading on the subject. There are numerous ways to go and a number of good products available for you to use. Also, I would strongly suggest that you deal with one of the venders who regularly visit this web site who can offer you a good price on what you need and more importantly, give you installation advice when needed. A good place to start after you do your research, would be with Betamotorsports.com.

Considering the success of diesel powered open wheel race cars, I suspect we will see more diesel conversions in the near future. Especially after more donor cars find their way to salvage yards here in the States. I would love to build a diesel powered road course car. It would be a real conversation piece.

QUOTE:"When this happens(engine losses power) if I let go of the throtle and push it back down then the car goes fine." It is possible that your problem is being caused by fuel starvation. i.e.; dirty filter, pump problem, junk in tank, etc.

A leak down test would have been helpful but it's too late for that now. You really need to look very, very closely at the head gasket for signs of where it could have been leaking.

Tony...........This was a true test for helicoil. We already knew how stupid humans can be.

Have you checked out Aeromotive's web site? When I last visited them, there was a lot of good information and recommendations.