v80z

coils and plug wires will exhibit these symptoms. At first statup and for the first 15 minutes, or until car gets warm, everything is fine. Then idle and cruis is fine but try to accelerate and stumble pop. Wires are the least expensive then the coil. Replace.

Guess I missed something. I thought P90 and for that matter all L motor heads are OHC. No Lifters. The rocker arms are made of solid metal. Not sure what you guys are talking about. Educate me.

Daimond Racing 16x10 255 50 16 Kuhmo. I would have to check my order for the offset. They also make a 16x12 that will fit the rears. $125.00/wheel new steel wheel.

Sounds like the intake charge has a lot of volume to it. Very cool Big SHSHSHSHSHHSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSH

Put $500.00 in your pocket and offer him $400.00. Either price is a good buy. 74 260 is my favorite model.

YEah That is right. They will match with marks on each gear.. Dizzy This was always fun. Can be done by one person but goes alot faster with 2, one person watching the oil pumpinstall from the top. #1 tdc #1 cam lobes 10 and 2 1.Pour a little oil in the oil pump so that it will be primed 2.install the oil pump so that the oil pump shaft tang, as viewed from the top,is positioned at the 10:25 position. The smaller part of the offset of the tang should face the front of the motor. 3. This is detailed on page 93 of the How to Modify Datsun L Motors Nice to see someone is enjoying Summer this time of year.

Dont worry about getting your cam crank timing out of whack # 1 at TDC #1 cam lobes at 10 and 2 The two brite links will align on the right hand side as you face the motor One link on top at about the 2 oclock The bottom link I think around 4 oclock. Check and replace your chain guides. Make sure not to over torque, like me, those little m8 bolts Getting the crank gear off can be difficult the first time. Lubrication heat and force are your friends. Be very careful with a puller to protect the nose of your crank. Once you get it off take the dizzy gear off also. Take some fine emory cloth and dress the crank snout like you would polish a shoe. Use along strip with one end in each hand. Also dress the keys and the inside of each gear until they slip easily in place. I dropped the chain once. Then I bought a piece from MSA or some other z house thatbolted onto the tension and kept it in place even if there was not chain tension and would keep the lower part of the chain on the crank gear. Think it was ~$70.00 us but very handy. In reassembly I dropped several crankshaft keys into the oil pan. Just get a magnet and fish them out. I would take a dollop of bule silicon rtv and set the keys the night before into their respective recesses. Then the next day slip the gears on. It was always very difficult to get the keys in perfectly so that there was no drag when installing the gear. It will bind up on you so if it is not budging pull it off polish everything with the emory cloth and try again. We will get to the dizzy timing if you need it.

Excellent Love that sound. NEw exhaust? First Time run? Had it a while? Joe

pm me I will give you ftp access credentials

I will post when it is done. If it turns out I will donate the template if anyone wants it.

So I do not profess to be a master fabricator not even a decent one. Hopefully this will hold the gauges and not vibrate to much. HAHAHAHHAHAH so close http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=9446

Mike 2003z Yep that was exactly it. Switched the calipers last night and everything is tight. bleeds above brake lines. Thanks

Mike I dont have a wiper answer. I am working throught the wiring now. I am at the stage of hooking up the battery charger to different lights and ringing them out. I am creating my own harness starting from scratch. AH whereto fuse? what gauge wire etc. PM me I will look at wiring circuit soon. Looks like there is 2 wires going to the motor. I wonder if there if fast speed is 12v and slow is a lower voltage dropped by a resistor? Any way I understand what you are going through. I have a dash template made. No holes for the gauges yet. I will post some pictures if you want. To the thread Good luck on the build. This has been my first SBC and just got it running. There is so mnay options just pick a direction and go. What has amazed me is the HP/$ ratio is very high as compared to building Racing L motors.

Dude You were spot on. I havent switched them yet but when I looked at them, the front toyota calipers, the bleed screw is below the line. I will switch them soon. Thanks

Dayum That is very nice. Enterring from the pond side seemed awkward. Will you build it up and put a drive in? Did you consider metal building before going to block? What are the pros and cons of metal vs block. Thanks

Well the rear disc is done and I was bleeding the brakes tonight. I have a tilton bias knob on this system. The rear brakes grab fine. The fronts are not clamping very much. Pedal is spongy indicate air in the line. 1. How much fluid do I need to go through before I can consider the lines and pistons full? 2. On a bias knob all the way in is what? full rear or full front? 3. After bleeding with alot of air bubbles coming out and then full fluid streams on all four corners the pedal still feels spongy and goes to the floor. Any ideas? Thanks !!!

I have to weigh in with Randy 77zt. In club racing I only ran toyota 4x4 caliper up front on stock rotors and drums on the rear. I ran whatever heavy duty brake fluid I could buy. I also ran friction material from Carbotech the XP9 as they have the pads for the toyota 4x4 caliper. And I carried spares. Bleeding the fluid at the end of a really hot session is a good idea and definately at the end of each day. Those pads were great. After every session there would be a good thick film of brake dust everywhere on the front wheels. Just my theory but a pad that will wear off is doing its job. There was no need for super brakes and in my limited experience club racing. It was what I would call sprint racing. There are only 2 maybe 3 place on a track that require threshold braking. Only one of the corners would be a braking event from top speed. Each lap was in the 1.25 -6-7 at summit to 2.18 - 2.27 range at vir. Time to cool. You are running 30 minute sessions one to two in the morning and one in the afternoon. Total 3 race sessions a day. The Z I had would top at 140 mph down the main straight. I never noticed any brake issues. My failures were alway engine internals. Z engines dont last too many 8000rpm sessions. But they are not designed too. We just run them that way to win then we go home and rebuild for the next dance. If anyone has any stories about z cars and brake failures on a closed circuit I would like to hear all the particulars. Everything has to be put in perspective based on your application. If you have to haul a 3400lbs tube chassis Monte carlo from 175mph to go around turn one you must buy a certain brake. If you need to slow a 2200 lb z car doing 140mph you can use a different brake. If you have a relatively unlimited budget, something I have never enjoyed, Buy all the brakes you want. The proof is in the lap time...............................................................

Hey Man While you got that thing disassembled do you have any more material on the head to get it decked? May check the plane on the block as well. At least 3m that block. Looks like 1256 are pig rich. and 34 were pig rich as well until some event. I always found the inner cylinders carried more heat that the outer 4. But plenty of black deposit on all until some event triggerred 3 4 was soon to follow. Definate High cylinder pressure. How much cam advance and ignition advance. Only speaking from experience. Had mine advanced so that the combustion was actually impeding the piston travel. Trying to get to the naked edge and beyond.

I can tell you that form my experience in amateur road racing that the majority of people out there are "Sunday Driving". Oh yeah they floor it down the straight sure. But most are running there cars at street rpm and very few are "throwing into the corners" When I first went to SCCA race school in Buccaneer division at Roebling Road I had ZERO experience and sufferred terribly the first day. We wnet to dinner that night at the local applebees and met and old racer there. My crew chief was making fun of my driving 1:32s at best on a 2 mile course, The old man looked at me and asked" What is your car like?" the chief explained that is was a fully prepped z to at least CP level if not GT2. The old man replied "G^D D!@@#T what do you want to do ? Live forever? AT that point I realized that driving on a closed course in a prepped car with all the safety and EMS around with all the traffic going in one direction is often much safer than driving a passenger car. The next day I got in the car and strapped in. I started cursing at the top of my loungs and banging the wheel. I must have looked like a spaz but I am sure the instructors at the school have seen many such rituals from new racers trying to overcome the sinking dying anxiety before a reace session. IT is all about overcoming your fear of death by impact or fire. Once that is resolved you are free to float your car at any attitude. The last 2 sessions I was running 1:16s and 1:15s it was amazing. ONce you feel the muscle strain in your neck and the point and squirt effect, Once the corners come at you faster than you can react, Once the front straight is the only place you have time not to think, then you are starting to approach a real racing tempo. Closed course racing is a language very few can speak. I only know a few words. But when spoken well IT is as if you are walking 10ft above the ground. It is like Steve McQueen. "For a driver life is racing and the rest is waiting for the next chance" or something like that. There is no other substance device person or experience that I have encounterred that has made me feel the feeling like coming of a track after a race session. Can ya tell I love it? Even with the experience I have I still suck at driving a race car. But when I get the new ride finished I will be able to practice more. This ride will be able to be driven on the street and the at HPDEs. The last one I only got to drive at race events and did not get enough seat time to get comfortable. I jumped in the deep end too early. This time will be different

I never used any copper or any sealant with my HKS head Gasket

HEy I have a Corvette slave cylinder with the JTR recommended Tilton MAster. The Datsun line fit directly into the corvette slave with a thread pitch of 1.75. The tilton has a thread pitch of 1.00. JTR's only recommendation was a -3 an braided line. So I need a compression/-an fitting with a 1.75 for the slave and one with a 1.0 for the master and a 3 ft -3 an aeroquip style braided hose. The hose should be no problem. Any ideas on where to find the other pieces. I was wondering if anyone else has faced this dilemma. Joe

How about some street rod tires Biggest 15's I've seen https://www.hoosiertire.com/strttire.htm