The screws on the very back of your carbs are the idle mixture screws. These are what set your idle and use only these. Start buy turning them all the way in gently that leans the mixture all teh way out. Then turn them out .5 turns to start. You are looking for the best smoothest lean idle on these. If you have to turn them out more than 1.5 your idle jets are to small. If you have to keep them less than .5 they are to big.
Now the screw on the throttle stops are for throttle blade syncro. Dont let anyone tell you this is how you set your idle speed as they are dead wrong. Turn them all in till they just barely touch the throttle stop. Take a piece of hose and listen to each carb and make sure they are all open the same amount. unisyn is junk get a syncro meter or a hose. Hose is better than unisyn.
There is a big fat flat head screw right in front of the mixture screws its pretty big. Take that out at with the engine off. These are your progression ports. There should be 3 holes staggered in there. You want the throttle blade no farther out than the hole closest to the intake mani. Your idle will change when you adjust the syncro because you let in a little air. Re adjust mixture screws to suit. When you think you have it go to the other side and pull a plug wire. The mixture is correct when the rpm drop is the same for every cyl or close.
Test drive time. Also when you are doing the initial setup the throttle arms must be disconnected from the carbs so pop your arms off before you start. DONT LET ANYONE TELL YOU TO ADJUST THE THROTTLE STOPS TO SET IDLE. Thats not how it works and you are cheating the system and will get a lean stumble off the line because you are drawing fuel out of the well for idle and its NOT RIGHT.
If you have a issue zach call me.
Will get some. Tach issue was because i was jumping my fuel pump off the + side of coil. It also woke the car up once i moved the pump on it own circuit and gave it full power. need a smaller air corrector i think as well.
What are you pulling for vacuum on that carb. Is it just one barrel or both on that carb? I echo a valve issue if its just one barrel. Chances of a carb being fubar after 1.5 is slim unless you dont run filters.
BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOST. Had a few leaks at first causing some major issues but i am now boosted. Think i still might have another leak. Timing is at 18 and feels like there could be lots more power there. Will play with timing in the morning.
Thanks to TonyD for putting up with my insatiable thirst for knowledge.
side not tach stops at 3 grand... ideas?
Using the same bearing and collar that was driving the centerforce plate. All i did was change the plate and disc and re install. Plate and disc are for a 81zx.
Also i should ad that there was a centerforce plate in the trans i put the stock plate back in but kept the bearing/collar that was driving the centerforce.
Also when i had someone step on the pedal i noticed there is about .5 inches between the back of the fork and teh trans like there is more room for it to go.
SO i dunno if the centerforce plate had taller fingers than the stocker or what. Will try a longer push rod in the morning and see if that rectifies it.
Master slave are new as well. Its just very strange seeing as how the slave rod comes out and moves the fork 1 1.5 inches it looks like. No howling or crazy noise.
Went to take car out after turbo build. Car wont shift into gear. Bleed the whole system nothing. Slave rod pushes out 1.5 inches or so but no go. When the drive shaft was not hooked up the trans shifted fine. Kinda stumped here. New clutch kit when in without a issue as well.
Ideas?