FricFrac

Welcome to the club Grab the FSM - if you read it and follow it step by step it will help you resolve or repair any system on your 280ZX http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php Keep us posted - it's a great motivator

The problem with the Z31/S130 turbo stock harness is the ECU plugs are not available. I tried to find pins to replace the original stock ones and reuse the body of the connector but have yet to find any. For the money you would probably be better off to sell the JWT setup and upgrade to a modern stand alone. If you were running a Z32/R32 or newer ECU I would consider upgrading to NisTune

You could just ask Bruce...

Read up on the S13 swap. You just need the S13 coilovers and the rest of the parts already have in your car. Fabrication is required but if you are doing a v8 swap then that should not be an issue

Thought about an S13 tranny swap?

You will likely need to re colour any of the red panels you find unless you can find some new in the package (same isle as the used Unicorns). SEM Color Guard is the best one I've used. Firethorn Red is the closest to stock. You might want to mute it down - the red interior is pretty uh red. Black carpets helps ALOT

Figure out the rough idle - that's likely the root of your problem. Did you go through the FSM? Have you metered out the AFM and CHTS through the harness at the ECU? Rebuilt the AFM?

Fixes- thanks

Wrong car...

As long as you can fabricate that's a great idea. One of the most over looked bang for the buck engines out there.

Yeah that is critical to the structure of the car.... you have your work cut out for you. Personally I'd look for another shell - lots of solid cars in your area.

The gauge doesn't care about the two extra seats The 120MPH gauge set is from a 1979 280ZX before the 85MPH law came into effect in September 1980 so it is possible some 1980 model years also has the 120MPH gauges in the USA. Alternately the rest of the world wasn't subject to this silly law so all Canadian speedos have the full range. You just need the analog pigtail located behind the dash to do the swap. The pigtail plugs into the main body harness in the passenger footwell.

I'd still be suspect of the AFM - possibly the connector? Did you check it the harness at the ECU with the FSM procedure?

The ZX usually squats pretty hard when you launch. When it squats it's going to toe in. I'd start with checking all your bushings. Never had wheel hop in a 280ZX...

Pictures of the pieces you want would help

1 - Ebay, forum For Sale sections or Facebook pages like Datsun Parts and Needs 2-Dropping a V8 in a 280ZX requires a skilled fabricator. Have you considered running an L28ET which came stock? You can make a reliable 300rwhp on the stock bottom end which is more HP than most people can use. That is the best bang for your buck and it bolts in. A 280ZX sports car is never going to be a sleeper. Get Plymouth Voyager if you want a sleeper...

You can run the stock compression on your NA. You will want to run a stand alone EFI system if you are running anything beyond a stock turbo setup. You can run EDIS as your ignition system but its an old outdated system and since you will want to run a stand alone EFI you will already have complete control over the spark from a stand alone system so there is no need for EDIS. I would also recommend running methanol with the L series especially with a higher compression turbo build. It will allow you to run significantly advanced from a non methanol injected system which will allow you to get more power out of your build. The L series is prone to detonation an bringing the charge temperature down is an excellent way to combat this. Methanol isn't going to eat your head if you mix it with water and don't let it sit in the combustion chamber. If you are storing the engine run some fogging oil through it before storage. Its a bit of a toss up between sourcing an RPM sensor (optical dizzy and matching oil pump spindle), turbo manifold and turbo vs getting a turbo engine to swap. If you are going for performance you will want to upgrade the turbo, injectors, intercooler, exhaust and ECU so the advantages of getting a turbo swap engine with all the bits and pieces starts to diminish. The P90 head is a nice head to run but if you are looking for cheap (relative term) HP I'd just build what you already have and get the optimal supporting pieces for your engine to increase the efficiency of your build and thus the power and reliability.

Nice.... but does it run....

So Derek can the rest of the Datsun community expect to see a four cylinder version of this head in the future? Seems the vast majority of the work is done on the six cylinder version for what would be needed to make a four cylinder version.

Sounds like he's right - to draw over 300 to blow the fuse is likely a short. Get the car running and wiggle the wires to see if you can get the fault to happen. Possibly a wire rubbed through its insulation on a sharp object

Updates David?

Nope it's ALIVE! http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=28686&p=251371&hilit=280zx#p251371

Ah when I asked Matt about the differences he didn't mention those - thanks for the info. Personally those aren't options that hold much value to me with the possible exception of the knock module since I already have a copy of Tuner Studio and for the majority of people the unregistered version of TS does 99% of what you would need. With a proper tune and good gas there is no need for a knock sensor.

Perhaps "essentially the same" would be better wording Yes - do your homework was the emphasis here. I see little value for the extra $390 performance and feature wise of the MS Pro vs the MS3X

I buy mine through diyautotune.com It probably started out as open source as you said but I guess now it's licenced. They also have a "Pro" version which is $390 more than the MS3X with the exact same capability with the exception of a weather proof case with weather proof connectors.