HB280ZT

Letitsnow, The extra board looks good, I never thought about using those bolts as mounting points for a new board. Also how is the clearance between the board and the top of the case? On another note what if you want to update your system to say an MS2 daughter board? When planning circuits my mind looks at changes in the future and how not to redo work if possible, you know, updates, expansion and/or adding circuits and extra wiring. Keep us posted on any additions to your system, keep the pictures coming they help alot. HB280ZT

As for the history of the GM 3800 series or the Buick 3.8 engine this is the best that I have found so far. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_3800_engine If you read to the end you will see that the 3.8 ohv engine has pretty much come to and end. HB280ZT

jc052685, I think you misunderstand what I am saying. To me a boost controller should not allow boost to get to the waste gate actuator until it hits it set value. Well my controller was doing just that. However the waste gate actuators spring was being overcome by the exhaust gas at 8 psi of boost, I was running 15 psi of boost at that time. When I upgraded to my 15 psi actuator it was also overcome by the exhaust gas pressure when I was running 20 psi of boost. So that being said how do you resolve the waste gate actuator spring issue when using an adjustable boost controller? HB280ZT

Well I guess that could be a problem however, I have used 2 different waste gate actuators (8 and 15 psi) with a manual boost controller and both let go at there set pressures and then went on to increase boost up to a set value determined by the manual boost controller. To me the boost controller is working just fine however the pressure in the system is over coming the waste gate actuator spring and allowing the waste to open some. So like I asked how do you stop this from happening with a boost controller? I am just going to remove the manual boost contoller for now and just run off of the waste gate actuator. HB280ZT

Well I analyzed the datalog and it appears that I get boost to the limit of the waste gate actuator, 8 for old one and 15 for new one. Then they allow boost to increase until the MBC engages. So the million dollar question is how do the people who use boost controllers get the waste gates to not open at a lower boost level?? Also the afr's are looking pretty good. I was seeing 21 psi of boost with afr's between 11.5 and 10.7. I know that is still a bit to low but there is still room for improvement. Hb280ZT

Well I just got back from another datalog run and it is running much better now. I replaced the waste gate accuator and apparently that fixed the problem of a slow boost to full boost. I will look at the datalog in a bit as I am off to an appointment. Will keep you all posted. HB280ZT

Well I just took the car out with a friend watching the boost guage and he is seeing the same thing my datalog is tell me. The car will boost to 6 psi when the petal is pushed to the floor then go up to 15 psi as the rpms increase. He has never seen anything like that before. So my next item to try is to replace the waste gate actuator and see if that changes anything. As for any pressure leaks I have them all fixed except for the injectors and the TPS. I will be replacing the intake, I hope in a few weeks then I will replace all of the injector seals. Where to get them? I am running 11mm 460 cc injectors and a palnet fuel rail. Thanks for the help. HB280ZT

Well I did another datalog and it is looking much better. I am now seeing afr's up to 10.7 with room for improvement. So I will do somemore work on the ve/spark tables and see what happens. HB280ZT

Ok, I worked on the intercooler pipe some and fixed a hairline crack. Then I pressure tested, to 24psi each piece of the system. I finally got it all back together and pressrized the system and found a leak in the TB at the TPS, not sure how to fix that one, very small leak. Also I am leaking at the number 1 and 6 injectors. Well fix those when I change my intake in the next several weeks, upgrading to an N42 intake! As for the FPR it is a Aeromotive with a boost reference?? I have been working the tuning and it is getting better and I hope to datalog another run here in the next few hours after I get it all back together again. Will keep you posted. HB280ZT

Ok, I checked the wastegate and it is not moving. As for the low apr's I am working on them and I am going to try and raise the advance up to 20 at the highest levels as another option. Hopefully someday I want to boost to my max boost of 18 psi but i am not there yet. I have pressurized the turbo system before and I had no leaks but I may have to do it again just to make sure. When I did it last I put a blank off plate behind the TB and put a plug with air pump pressure fitting into the intercooler pipe coming out of the turbo. If you have a better idea please let me know. I may even try putting my 15 psi wastegate accuator back in along with the MBC to see if that helps out some. Here is my last datalog if anyone is interested. Also give the man an award! The reason I was getting 10 deg is because I was hitting the soft rev limiter, fixed now! Thanks for the help. HB280ZT datalog200808251614.zip

Ok after several runs and much VE work here is what I see on my last datalog: 2635 rpms 1/10 throttle -7.5 boost 14.1 afr 39 deg adv time 215.406 2539 rpms full throttle -1.5 boost 14.4 afr 32 deg adv time 215.792 3122 rpms full throttle 3.5 boost 13.2 afr 30 deg adv time 215.928 3437 rpms full throttle 5.6 boost 12.6 afr 26 deg adv time 216.564 4255 rpms full throttle 6.5 boost 12.6 afr 23 deg adv time 217.078 4453 rpms full throttle 7.4 boost 11.8 afr 22 deg adv time 217.464 4864 rpms full throttle 8.7 boost 11.8 afr 22 deg adv time 218.236 5572 rpms full throttle 11.7 boost 10.8 afr 19 deg adv time 218.365 5925 rpms full throttle 12.6 boost 10.3 afr 19 deg adv time 219.009 6069 rpms full throttle 13.8 boost 10.0 afr 10 deg adv time 219.524 I did find one item that concerns me and that is that for some reason my spark angle goes to 10 degrees for no reason at very high rpms. My advance table goes from 42 to 16 degrees and does not have a bad cell anyplace that says 10 degrees. So what could cause this? I checked several full throttle runs and it shows the same thing all above 5800 rpms. So for now I am at a loss on this timing issue, what to look at or try now? HB280ZT

Well I checked all of the intercooler pipes and everything was nice and tight! So now I am working on a new VE table and getting ready to take the car for a spin. After the run we will see how my my new VE table makes the AFR's look. As for the boost reference which is best if that can be answered? Maybe I will just get the VE table fixed first then do some runs and change the boost reference to see which is best for my car. Thanks for the information and keep it coming! HB280ZT

Guys thanks for the information. As for the AFR's I just had to replace my O2 sensor and apparently the old one was off a bit. So I am now working on tuning the car again. While reading datalogs for tuning purposes is when I noticed the strange boost issues. As for the Wastegate actuator it is an 8 lbs unit and I am using a manual boost controller (ball spring type) to get it up to 14 lbs. I am getting the boost pressure signal for the boost controller from the outlet of the turbo. The boost pressure for the megasquirt/boost guage/RRFPR is coming from the intake manifold. Could this be an issue? I will see about checking all of the connects again tomorrow morning as it is to late right now to be working on the car, or that is what my wife would tell me!! Keep the suggestions coming and I will run the car some more tomorrow with new VE numbers and let you know how it turns out, after several runs of course. HB280ZT

Hi All, For starts I am running a T3/T04B turbo on an 82 turbo motor. The Turbine side has an AR of .63 with a stage 3 wheel and the compressor side is a hi-fi wheel (like a 60-1). I am running a 3" exhaust and an intercooler with 2.5" feed pipe and a Tial 55 mm BOV. Here is my question. I was doing some data logging today and noticed something that does not seem right. When I was doing full throttle second gear runs I was getting this type of boost information: 2748 rpms 1/4 throttle -2 lbs boost 2830 rpms 1/2 throttle 1 lbs boost 2993 rpms 2/3 throttle 3 lbs boost 3578 rpms full throttle 6 lbs boost 4075 rpms full throttle 6 lbs boost 4938 rpms full throttle 8.5 lbs boost 5374 rpms full throttle 10 lbs boost 5846 rpms full throttle 12.5 lbs boost 5940 rpms full throttle 13.6 lbs boost 6190 rpms full throttle 14.2 lbs boost AFRs are in the 11.0 - 10.0 range, a bit rich but I am working on cleaning this up. This is not right, right? I should be seeing full boost 14 lbs at about 4000 rpms not 6000? So what to do and what should I be checking because this is not right? Thanks for the help. HB280ZT

Hi All, I was just wondering what type of band saw blades you all are using for different materials in your fabrication efforts? For starts my band saw, a Sprunger cira. 1940-1950 uses a 93 1/2†blade and it still works pretty good. I am using a 4 tooth per inch wood blade for Aluminum. Not sure about ferrous metal though? You know for cutting tubing, exhaust, etc? Any thoughts, ideas, types, brands, etc? Thanks for the help. HB280ZT

Let it vent! That way when it goes south on you, you can hear it! How do I know this well, because I used one on my car and got tired of the hose routing and just vented it to atmosphere one day. That is when I noticed it was leaking, badly. Oh yea it was crushed so that I could run 15 psi. Before when it was a recirculation BOV I did not know that it leaked so bad. I ended up replacing it with a Tial 50 mm BOV. No more leady BOV anymore. Hope this helps. HB280ZT

Just some advice. Look at both frame rails very closely before you start work on one or the other. I started working on replacing my driver’s side with new floor pans and used the Bad Dog frame rail caps and the driver’s side came out very nicely. However when I started to work on the passenger side I ran into a small problem, what frame rail! The frame rail was pretty much gone all the way to the T/C bucket when I started to clean out the old rust. The reason it looked this bad is because of the work a body shop did on the car years before. They just covered up all of the rust with a tin cap and put in enough undercoating and filler to make it look like there was a frame rail there but after removing the undercoating and filler look what I found or did not find!! So in the end I had to ditch the bad dog frame rails and build custom 2X3 frame rails to replace both sides. So I had to redo work that I already did, not fun. But in the end it worked out for the better and the car stiffen up nicely! Hope my pain helps someone in the end! Check both sides before work on one!! HB280ZT

Well hopefully by now we have several people using the MS2 Extra code. If so please let us know what you think and how it is working out? HB280ZT

Not to bad of a deal. But remember you will need to add about $70+ for outer tie-rods to complete the package! HB280ZT

As far as clutch setup look at the bigger Turbo clutch setup 240 mm vice 225 mm. You will find that setup in an 81 or 82 280ZX turbo. Keep us posted on how your work goes and please post lots of pictures!! HB280ZT

And just so you know I happen to like GM as almost all of my cars over the years came from them. I just happen to inherent the Datsun I have so that is why I am working with it, not to mention it is fun!! What I was saying is that the Big 3 as you put it have never built a diesel motor that was worth anything other then a boat anchor! I have looked for the site I saw the HP/torque information on the race prepared TDI motor but I can not find it anymore. I still think it would be a neet motor to put in a 510 or 240Z for a daily driver! HB280ZT

Just a bit of information to ponder. Although the duramax engine is now being built by GM is was originally designed and built by the worlds leading diesel motor builder Isuzu in conjunction with Bosch. Now the Ford motors are built by International Harvester Company (IHC) and well Cummings builds the motors for Chrysler. So in truth none of the US automotive companies really design and build there own diesel motors, thank god for that!! Now I would still like to see a VW 1.9L TDI motor in a Z or a 510! If you look on the Suzuki Samurai web sites they are mating them to 5-speed with good luck. Also I remember reading that VW made a touring race car in Germany out of a Golf/Jetta that was putting down 385 rwhp and getting 35 mpg still using the 1.9L TDI motor. Not to mention look at Audi and there TDI race cars, remember that Audi is owned by VW! So there are some possibilities however it could require importing the engine and technology into the US. So how would you do it and could you get away with it?? Some of the people on this board from outside the US chime in on this as you all have first hand knowledge about the diesel motors that are available outside the US. Pictures would be great! HB280ZT

I understand the difference between a buick 3.8 and a chevy 3.8. What I was mostly talking about was the turbo and intercooler as they were setup for the 3.8 motor and made right at 245 factory rwhp on the buick motor. The buick was also running a 200R4 automatic transmission vice a 5-speed, so more power loss. So if you could get between 225-250rwhp out of the chevy 3.8 that would be great, remember the supercharged version is getting around 270 rwhp at very low boost. Now factor in that the motor is further back and down more in the car you should have a nicely balanced track car to start with. Now the question is how much weight difference is there between the 2.8 and the 3.8?? I also am wondering how you will route the exhaust from a front mounted turbo around the motor when it takes up most of the engine bay behind the engine/steering cross member? I would like to see pictures of this! HB280ZT

What you need to do it search the buick web sites about the GN turbo setup. I believe they came from the factory with about 6-8 psi of boost. I know there is lots of information out there about that setup. Not to mention lots of parts to include: turbos, intercoolers and such! HB280ZT

I have no problems getting my parts from Dave at Arizona Z, matter of fact I have 2 sets of his front rotor assemblies. You know 1 for the track and 1 for the street. However, I just like to have options in case something happens and we cannot get parts from him for whatever reason. So here is what I can figure out from measuring my setup: Wilwood part numbers: UL-32 Series Directional Vane Rotors RH 160-2894 10.5 lbs LH 160-2895 10.5 lbs ULHP-32 Series Directional Vane Rotors RH 160-5845 10.4 lbs LH 160-5846 10.4 lbs Now back to figuring out what I want/need for back brakes!! HB280ZT