HB280ZT

I have an adjustable T/C rod and have pushed it forward so that the tire looks forward in the wheel well and is getting very close to rubbing on the fender. With it setup this way I am only at +3.8 deg of castor. So to get 6 to 7 I would have to push it into the fender? However I also have camber biscuits that I can change the camber and castor some but still not enough to get even close to what is recommended by the racing people. Thanks for the information hope this also helps someone else! HB280ZT

Great information guys. Now the question is how do the race guys get as much as 7 deg of caster in there cars and keeping the LCA perpendicular to the chassis centerline? HB280ZT

Hi All, I have a geometry question concerning the LCA to body mounting point. You are looking at the adjustable LCA and T/C rod, complements of Mikelly. Well the question is what will happen to the caster if I change the bushings around so that the large one is in front and small in back on the heim joint? Thanks for your help. HB280ZT

I also like these wheels but the million dollar question is how well will they fit my car, 77 280Z. dropped suspension and coilovers. I sorta know that they will fit but how well? I currently have a set of 002's with 0 offset but they stick out to much to my liking so I am interested in anyone who is running a wheel with a 16" wheel with about a +15 offset to find out how well they fit. One other issue is that I can not do anything to the fenders at this time, lets just say piss poor body work! Thanks for your help. HB280ZT

Hi All, Well I have a rebuilt 82 5-speed (not T-5, Z shop rebuilt it the first time) that has had the front cover seal replaced twice now and it still leaks fluid out the weep hole on the front cover. Anyone have any ideas how to fix this problem as it is getting to be a PITA! Could it have anything to do with the countershaft shim? I am using Nissan seals for a non T-5 (turbo) unit with matching gasket. Thanks for the help. HB280ZT

Hi All, Here is a question for you concerning this setup. Have you looked at addressing the issue of drive angles. What I mean is that in the very early 240Z the rear housing was forward a bit, as talked about in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124522 Called Non-Conventional Differential Options started by Mikelly, addressed by johnc in post #22. To me if this was an issue then you could solve it pretty easily as part of your setup. Just a thought! HB280ZT

The tire and rim combo look great but I have a few questions: 1 - What was the price for the rims? 2 - Where did you get them? 3 - Will they clear Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 12.2" rotors, without a spacer? I see you are upgrading from snowflake rims to these, I am currently running snowflakes and they require a 1/2" spacer to clear the calipers. Thanks HB280ZT

Guys, I was looking for my 3 Z manuals but can not find any of them, so here is a thought. If you pull water from the back of the head from the boss for the water to the heater core could this help out some?? Also on the P90 head you have a coolant sensor boss behind the #5 cylinder, maybe you can make this bigger and pull coolant from there? Not sure how you would pull coolant from these, maybe a small pump of some type??? HB280ZT

Hi All, Well as the title says I will be Tampa Bound in a few weeks. I am currently in Virginia but I just accepted a job in Tampa working for the government. So that being said what is there to do for us Z people in the Tampa area? Do you all have a club or some type of group going down there? Any other help would be great as I will be needing to put together a new motor for my 77 280Z turbo later this year, one cylinder is low and I am loosing power. Also I am into HPDE's and have run up here at the following tracks: Roebling Roads Summit Point Main course VIR Full course and North course I am also a NASA member so I will see what they have going on. Thanks for the help and hope to see and talk with some of you all in the future. If you want you can PM or e-mail me. Harry aka HB280ZT

Spend some of the rusty Coast G. money?? What Coast Guard money I was in the Navy!! Yea I was thinking the motor was on it way out but I had lots of fun with it at the track anyways. So now I will need to work on building a new motor. So what do I really need????? Will have to see how money is after a move and starting a new job. So for the people in the Tampa area is there someone down there that knows how to work on Z motors?? HB280ZT

Hi All, Well I am bringing back this thread because I just did another compression test of my tired motor. Not to mention that I replaced the P90 head with a N42 head last year and blew a head gasket 2 months ago. Because I changed the engines compression ratio from 7.2 - 1 to 8.3 - 1 the compression test should have read higher with this setup over the original setup. What prompted me to do this was oil being sucked into the intake runner even though I have a catch can in place. Here are the results: 1 - 125/122 2 - 120/122 3 - 110/110 4 - 115/113 5 - 100/97 wet 135 6 - 110/110 wet 165 Now I have been having fun with the car at VIR over the last few months and I know the power is done some from when I did a dyno test 8 months ago, i.e. 250 now vice 300 then. I know some dynos will show different but 50 rwhp is a lot of change. So what do you all think? Do I need a new motor or what? HB280ZT

I am using NGK BKR7E-11 V-groove plugs at 15psi of boost, gapped to .028. Has anyone tried these: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/racing.asp?mode=nml# They look pretty interesting but the price is a bit steep at $9.50 each. I will have to look into the BKR7E plugs without the -11! Maybe I will not have to bend the electrode over to get the correct gap. HB280ZT

Well I put the mount in my 77 280Z last night and it looks good. The only thing that I needed to do was to slot the bolt holes a bit so it would fit. Here is what I did to put it in: 1 - put car on jacks 2 - removed the exhaust 3 - loosen the tranverse link inner bolts 4 - removed the rearend crossmember 5 - dropped the front part of the sway bar 6 - removed the 4 strap bolts and strap assembly 7 - remove 30 years of built up crud!! 8 - lowered the front of the diff so that the mount could be put in place 9 - installed the 4 old strap bolts into the 4 elongated mounting holes 10 - installed the crossmember 11 - tightened the transverse link inner bolts 12 - installed the sway bar 13 - installed the exhaust system 14 - tightened everything to specs 15 - take car off of jacks Now it is time to take the car out and drive the #$%^ out of it! Enjoy! HB280ZT

BJ nice arms. The only issue that I have with the stock arms is that one side fits all!! I really wish Nissan built 2 different arms one for each side. The reason that I say it is because I would love to be able to change the sway bar point on the rear, but with the current rear arm you have the little pocket to work with. Oh well will have to continue to watch this post and see what happens. Keep up the good work and keep sharing it with the rest of us! HB280ZT

I also had a bucking problem with my turbo car at boost. It turned out I had my plugs gapped to .040 and at about 12psi I was blowing out the spark. I changed the gap to .030 and the bucking went away. Just thought you all should know what solved my bucking problem. MS1 V3 running extra code. HB280ZT

Got my mount in the mail the other day and it looks great. Have the poly mount trimmed to fit and now I just need to do the install. So has anyone with a 280Z installed this yet? If so any advice or tricks that I need to know about? HB280ZT

That rear setup looks great. I like the extra support from the diff rear mount to the link bracing. Not really sure what it does but it looks good. Also the drop bracket on the LCA is interesting, what does it really do? Now the million dollar question is where did you get the rear sway bar? Also can you cut and weld metal to a sway bar without damaging it?? Because there are bars out there that could work but the ends are not right for what I need to do. I like the ends that are flat and have holes in them so that a heim joint can be used. Did you use larger bolts on the lower sway bar mount? I know the stock piece uses 6mm X 1.00mm bolts and I am sure they will not support the weight or stress put on that part. So the arms need to be parallel to the gound to work correctly? Thanks. Keep the good information coming. HB280ZT

zlalomz, Thanks for the new pictures they help alot. I also like the way they used the front part of the fuel cell mount to brace the sway bar. However for us that do not have a fuel cell we would have to do something different. So now I just need to figure out which bar to get, 1" or 1 1/4", solid or hollow? Then which steel arm to get and bend it to the correct shape. Also will have to figure out a better way to mount the sway bar link to the lower control arm. Do you have to have the sway bar arm parallel to the gound or can you change it so that the arm is pointing up at say 30 degrees? That way I could use a longer end link. Questions and more questions. It is like opening Pandora's box, where will it stop! Thanks again. HB280ZT

Great pictures!! Does any of the 240Z people have any specs and/or a list of parts need to do a swaybar mod like this. I know I can not do the through frame swaybar but anything is better then the setup I currently have. I am looking at doing the front and rear with the rear moving to behind the diff. Thanks for your help. HB280ZT

Hi All, I am running into front sway bar bind problem. Information first: custom adjustable lower control arms. custom adjustable T/C rod. coil overs and DP camber biscuits currently have a 28mm front sway bar My current setup causes the end link to bind out and forward because of camber (.7 neg) and caster (3.5 degrees) adjustments. So I was thinking about a front sway bar like the stock cars use: http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp21.htm Along with the sway bar arms. http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp22.htm Would have to have the arms bent out to clear the tires but this would also make it so that I could adjsut where the arm positions over the lower control arm hole. So am I looking at this wrong or should I try something else? Any .02 is appreciated! Also for the record I did a search and spent about 2 hours reading through many, many posts. HB280ZT

The people around here that run dynos want to see 11.0 to 10.5 at wot. However I think that is to rich for my setup, about 11.5 to 12 sounds better. So I will be upping the timing to see what happens, but I want to do it right so I am looking at the following: http://www.viatrack.ca/ Once I have this up and working then I will really see what I can do with timing and fuel to get the best performance out of my setup. HB280ZT

Anyone have any AFR's to go along with the timing numbers? That would be very useful. HB280ZT

No I do not have the timing light on the #4 plug. Go to TDC and check everything. Now pull you dist cap, rotor and the metal cover that hides the CAS. Now look at the CAS and mark it at TDC. You should be able to see all 6 windows that active the optical sensor. You will see that the #1 window runs through the sensor about 30 deg before the plug fires. Also you will see if you look into it some that the rotor gives you a full sweep through the pickup on the cap by like 30 degs. This is how Nissan gave the timing more adjustablity. Now rotated the motor back 60 deg on the crank. I actually used tape on the crank and marked the numbers back using the 30 deg marks on the crank. So try and rotate the distributor so that it window contacts the sensor and gives you a light. I could not rotate my dist enough so I moved the distributor to accomplish this or you could just continue to rotate and mark the crank until the light lites and that will give you the reference that you need. I hope that helps. HB280ZT

With that setup I have no earthly idea what to tell you! How about getting a LM1 or LC1 and go from there? Good luck! HB280ZT

We need more information to help with this one. Are you running a stand alone computer system? How about intercooler and exhaust? Stock turbo or not? I am running 15 psi but I am using a MS&S-extra and am running 16 deg at idle and up to 39 at some points. But under full throttle and full boost 15 psi at 5800 rpms I am at 15 deg. HB280ZT