HB280ZT

Well changing the gears and staying out of the throttle below 3000 rpms did not really help at all. Now I am really pulling out my hair because now I can get the car to flutter in all gears, that is also above 3000 rpms. I am even now getting it upwards of 4000 rpms when I am at part throttle. However, full throttle runs are fine, up to 17psi without any fuel issues. So what to do!! I checked all of the system and cannot find any problems, I/C plumbing has no restrictions in it. Here is my I/C specs: I/C tubing 2 1/4 I/C is bar and plate with a fin area measures 3" wide X 8" tall X 20" long. Came off of a Supra that was putting out 550 rwhp, so it should work on my car. Tial BOV is mounted 12" before the TB. Spark plugs NGK BKR7E gapped to .025 Not sure what else to try so any .02 is well worth it right now!! HB280ZT

I also think a BMW motor in a Z would be great. However I am not sure if I would go with something like the motor from the twin turbo 3.0L US 335I or even better the twin turbo 3.0L diesel motor coming out in the 335D or the 535D, great fuel mileage (+35 or so) and lots of power and torque! HB280ZT

How about a Northstar V8!! They came in a 4.0L and 4.6L dual overhead cams. Just a thought because I have seen many in the old J-yard! HB280ZT

Anyone have a 1600 or a 2000 collecting dust in the barn or garage?? That would make for an interesting ride! HB280ZT

Yes I understand that it was compressor surge and in away the BOV did have something to do with it. My old units leaked so badly that they masked the problem and I did not realize I was getting compressor surge as much as I do now. You see I replaced the cheap BOV's with a good Tial 50mm BOV that seals and now I have compressor surge all the time. So to remedy that I swapped my rear gears from a 3.90 to a 3.54 and now it is hard for me to hit compressor surge without really trying to do it, you know 5th gear pulls form say 1800 rpms! I will have to wait and see how it affects the car at the track. Hopefully I will get a chance to run it at Sebring in April or so. Will keep you all posted. HB280ZT

Well I did a bunch of research and I think I may give something a try. You see the fluttering issue really drove me crazy last year while at VIR running the north course. When I was coming out of turn 7 ( a sever up hill right hand turn) it fluttered almost everytime I went through the turn. Now I did this turn in 3rd gear because I did not have the rpm to use 2nd (3.90 rear gear). So if I put in the 3.54 rear gear plus I now have more rpm's out of the motor, an intake restriction issue, gone now. I could have pulled more rpm's and powered through the corner using 2nd gear. So I think I will swap out my rearend and see how it works. HB280ZT

I have been watching this post with interest. I have been trying to figure out how to make my setup work better: 4 piston Wilwoods up front and 280ZX in the rear. I also use the factory distrubution block with a Wilwood Adjustable Proportioning Valve plumbed into the rear line. Even with the p-valve adjusted all the way it still does not do much for the rear compared to the front brakes. So I started thinking if there was a better way to do this and I came across this product: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/products/detail/5505/?make=Street%20Rod%20Accessories&model=Prop+Block%3A+Adjustable+Proportioning+Valve+and+Distribution+Block+All-In-One&year= With this I believe we can change the brake bias more then with the above setup I mentioned. I am going to give SSBC a call and see what I can find out about there unit. I just wish I would have come up with this earlier because I had the motor out of my car and putting this in would have been much easier, oh well! HB280ZT

Well I found this great thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123560&highlight=surge now I just need to figure out what to do to solve the problem. I understand that it could be a driver problem but I also believe that I am missing something in the setup! I guess with all of the leakage that my old BOV's had it was masking the surge issue. Here is my turbo information that I got from James at Speed Shop Thagard! T3/TO4 Turbine wheel is a stage III. A/R .70 Compressor wheel is a T04B hi-fi A/R .63 and it flows 55lbs/min It is not a crazy turbo so I really do not see how it is causing turbo surge? I guess I need to do some more research on this problem and maybe I can find a solution that I can make work. HB280ZT

Well I have used several different BOV's and they all did it. 1 - was a 1st G BOV and it drove me crazy, up to 15 psi of boost, ti would leak at lower boost 2 - was a 1st G knock off BOV and it did the same, it was adjustable but it did not matter, it would also leak at lower boost 3 - latest I went with a new Tial 50mm BOV, it is non-adjustable but it is running a -18 and -21 in/Hg Un-painted spring, I no longer have the leaks and when I am really in boost it holds great. So I guess I will do some searching for surge and see what is up. If anyone has a solution that would be great as I really need to get rid of this if I every plan on having any fun on track days at Sebring!! HB280ZT

OK I know that does not sound right but that is what my car is doing! Here is what I have: MS 1 V3 with 29v Extra code 82 ZX turbo motor with N42 head using turbo cam T3/TO4 turbo intercooler Tial BOV running 12 psi boost manual DIY boost controller 60mm TB Here is what the car is doing. When I am just getting into boost the car sometimes flutters, no better way to explain it. However when I get into it hard it does not flutter. So what could be causing it? If you look in the datalog around record 3185 (415.414s) you will see what I am talking about. So if anyone has any ideas please let me know as this is driving me nuts! HB280ZT datalog200801111738.zip

Mark, What table are you talking about? "Are you sure you guys have hot start enrichment on?" I am not sure but i think you are talking about the More Settings, Idle control table. Is this correct if not can you point me in the right direction? HB280ZT

Hi All, I was just looking through the Wilwood catalog and I came across these: http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Pages/12/index.asp and I was wondering if anyone has tried to see if one of these could be modified to work on our cars? If I had a rear strut housing laying around I could pull off the measurements I would however I do not and do not want to take my car apart at this time, have to drive it to work tomorrow morning. So if anyone has a rear strut assembly laying around could you please provide some measurements to get the ball rolling? 1 - distance from wheel mounting surface to where the backing plate mounts to the strut, without drum installed 2 - distance between mounting holes on the strut assembly, where the backing plate mounts 3 - diameter of the tube housing where the outside bearing is installed I think that should do it. What I am really looking for is a better brake setup for the rear that has parking brakes that do not use the regular brake pads. Also this would give us 12.2" rotors and 4 piston calipers if we can make it work. Also I see that they can provide us with blank rotors. That way we can set it up for our cars, that is if we can find an offset that will work. So what do you all think, is this doable? Thanks for the help. HB280ZT

Well I will have to eat crow on this one. I checked the AFR on my car after a long run and restart and I came up with a different issue. Before I was getting a rich condition upon restart but it seems that my LC-1 had not timed out when I was doing the readings. So this time I let my LC-1 time out first then started the car and was getting a really lean condition like the rest of you all, how does 19 or 18 to 1 AFR sound! So why are we running this lean? I really need to data log one of these to get a better reading of what is going on, but I always seem to forget to do it. HB280ZT

I had my 83 280ZX turbo balancer rebuilt by Dale Manufacturing: http://www.dalemfg.com/harmonicbalancer_002.htm It came out really good and I am using it now on my car. Not a bad price either as a new one is about 3 times as expensive. Hope this helps. HB280ZT

I am thinking about installing a tube bumper behind the Type III air dam in the area that looks like a bumper. I will attach it to the standard 77 bumper mounting locations. I am planning on using 3/16 plate as the mount plate with .060 DOM tubing as the out supports and the bumper. Hopefully I will attach it to the standard bumper mounting points on the sides and straight out from the support plates in the front. Will take pictures of it as I do it, hopefully in Jan 08. I first have to get with a friend who has a bender and the tubing and find a few hours of down time to do it. I am also looking at putting in a splitter on the bottom out of aluminum to help support the bottom of the air dam and to hopefully give the front end something to slide over items with. I hope to attach it all the way back to the engine cross member. HB280ZT

If you do a search for Nissan Quest front studs they are longer and will work with the toyota calipers and the Snowflake rims, using the stock snowflake lug nuts. I know because I had that setup before I went to Wilwood brakes. I also had to use a 1/2 spacer to make the rims work. HB280ZT

I had a similar problem like that under boost with my V3 board and it was a problem with the spark plugs. What I mean is that I had to drop the gap from 40 to 28 to completely remove the stumble. Just a thought! HB280ZT

I am having this same problem with my V3 running Extra code. I just hooked up a Palm XIII to my unit and can now monitor parameters as I run real time and I did notice one item when I was having this problem. The AFR is like 10 to 1 when it is running really rough after a hot start up. However after I rev the engine or drive it a bit the AFR's are back to a normal 13 to 14 to 1 range. So what is causing this increased running rich after a hot restart?? HB280ZT

I have a Hobart 175 and it has worked great for me. Now I am by no way an expert at welding so take this as you may. However I have run 5 bolttles of C25 through it in the last 5 years. The unit has done everything I have asked of it from 26 gauge sheet metal work to 3/16 steel plate. The only part on it that says Hobart that I have found is the sticker on the side of the unit. Hope this helps some. HB280ZT

John, Thanks for the information. I understand that everything in front of the radiator only adds to the heat problem. Also I did not think about putting holes in the lower support to vent air through, will have to look into that one. As for ducting I am looking at venting all air from top and bottom grill openings through the radiator opening, how TBD!! Now comes the fun part trying to figure all of this out!! Hopefully someone posts more pictures showing radiator ducting. Thanks HB280ZT

I understand about most of the items mentioned about venting hot air out of the engine compartment, but to vent the hot air from the oil cooler (180 deg +) through the radiator is not what I really want to do so do I have other options? I either vent it through the radiator or under the car, those are the ones that I can think of ?? As for a cooling fan on the oil cooler it would not work as the cooler is 4" tall and 21" long. Not much of a place to mount one. I also just recieved my MSA Type 3 air dam and it has a nice place to mount a splitter to the bottom edge. For the people that have a type 3 how well does it line up with the bottom of the car or does it hang down a bit? I am looking at boxing in the frontal area of the grill to the radiator support closing off any opening not putting air through the rad. I may even make a blank off plate to put in front of the upper grill for when I am at the track to try and help with down force on the front end. Thanks for the help. Harry

So is anyone using the Tial knockoff BOV on there car? I need a new BOV because my 1st gen is leaking and causing some problems so I was following this thread. HB280ZT

Ok people here is my problem but here is some background information. 1977 Datsun 280Z 1982 turbo motor with intercooler RX7 oil cooler 2 core aluminum radiator here are a few pictures to show you what I am dealing with: The issue is how to duct the hot air away from the oil cooler and not into the radiator. I have been following several other threads talking about ducting into the radiator but I am not sure what to do about the oil cooler like I already mentioned. I was thinking about putting a smaller vent that routes air through the new type 3 front spoiler and out the bottom of the car away from the radiator. I was thinking about routing this between the front radiator support and the splitter that I would like to build for the front-end. I would also have to change the orientation of the oil cooler moving it forward a bit and move the lower section out further then the top this way venting the air down and away from the radiator. So what do you all think? HB280ZT

Dan, I have the PDK strut tower braces on the front and rear of my 1977 280Z turbo. The measurement that you need is 17" from the top of the frame rails to the bottom strut tower brace at the bend. Here is an old picture of mine installed: Hope this helps. HB280ZT

Hi All, I just had a custom drive shaft made for my 77 280Z turbo with 1982 Nissan 5-speed and here are the spicer part number that were used to put it together: Front yoke C2-3-2189-5 (3103-24) rear flange C-22459 (3102-39) The numbers in () are from my sales receipt and the others are off of the parts themselves. Hope this helps someone else down the road. The picture shows the old and new shafts. Now my only issue is getting bolts to fit the new rearend flange, anyone have any ideas?? HB280ZT