HB280ZT

So Mike which ward are you in now a days? HB280ZT

Well I changed out the intercooler for a straight piece of pipe and the flutters went away, so that being said I think my intercooler was causing a restriction of some type. HB280ZT

Well all I have been working on my flutter problem some more and here is what I have figured out. I went back to my 8 lbs actuator and was pulling 18 lbs of boost. So to put it mildly I was getting just a bit of boost creep! I fixed the boost creep by having my turbo guy enlarged the internal waste gate hole to match the waste gate puck and now no more creep. This also got rid of my flutter when under low boost, 8 lbs or less. Now when I install my 15 lbs actuator I get flutter again but not as bad. So my thinking is that my intercooler is causing a restriction under low boost/volume. However under high boost/volume it foces the air through the intercooler. So I need to replace my intercooler and I am looking at this one: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/products/index.php?products_id=101&category_id=9 Anyone use one of these? I can get it from Summit Racing for about $425. HB280ZT

Hey Guys, Just so you know Turbonetics has put a turbo on an H3 with the I5 in it. Here are the instructions: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/downloads/instructions/systems/60161_H3.pdf Might help someone if they plan on using this engine! I had a 2004 Canyon and it ran great with the I5 in it! HB280ZT

How much boost are you running? What did you set your spark plug gap to? I had to reduce my gap to .028 when I was running 12 psi of boost. HB280ZT

Hi All, Well I am working with a MS V3 running extra code 29y4. Here are my symptoms: Car will not start, it will turn over and it has fuel, pressure at 38 psi during crank, wet plugs, checked the injectors and they are firing spark, checked at the coil and with plug on engine, replaced coil and checked all plug wires, no problem the timing is 20 deg during cranking as viewed with a timing light This all happened after I did a high boost 18psi/speed run and a vacuum line come off and the car started to run like S**t. It ran extremely rich (10.00 on my wide band). I found the problem and reconnected the vacuum line and replaced the plugs, fouled really bad. The car started and ran until I went to adjust the fuel pressure and the car died and has not started again! I also removed the MS unit and checked it with my old MS tester and it seemed to work fine, but I can not adjust the injector PW. I did not see any burnt or bad parts on the MS motherboard. So what to try now? Thanks for the help! HB280ZT

I do not think compression is your problem. Do you have spark, fuel and check timing? That is where I would start first. HB280ZT

Not bad for an NA motor, how many miles on the motor? I average 130 on a turbo motor freshly rebuilt with new rings and other parts. HB280ZT

tpnorth, E-mail sent! HB280ZT

I also know where there are a few cars and motors in the tampa area! HB280ZT

When I flew in P-3C's in and out of Iceland they basically dropped the plane on the runway to make sure it would stick. I say many, many commercial and military airplanes land in Iceland by slamming (or dropped) to make sure that they would stick to the icy runways. So dropping it on a moving carrier flight deck would not be a problem. As for the P-3C aircraft you needed to have weight on wheels before you could reverse engines, I do remember that much. Now could you disable that while in-flight I am not sure it has been almost 15 years since I flew. When I did I was not a Flight Engineer I was an in-flight technician. Also remember a lot of the engine parts on a P-3 and a C-130 are interchangeable but the C-130 has its engine mounted up side down. HB280ZT

I read someplace that they had to modifiy the landing system so that they could go to reverse on the outboard engines just before landing then basically drop the plane on the deck. As for take off they used the rocket assist to take off, like Fat Albert does in the Blue Angles shows. HB280ZT Retired NAVY

Well cygnusx1 I did somewhat the same thing you did and no surge now. However I do get just a bit of movement on the boost gauges but nothing like I uses to get, it would buck like a bronco!! Now what I did was go to the local hardware store and get a spring like the factor tial spring and make it work. I had to do a bit of cutting and fitting but it works using my 8 psi wastegate actuator. The only issue there was that I was hitting 14 psi on my datalog! Not sure about that one. However I will change out the wastegate actuator for the 15 psi unit to see if it still does not surge. On another issue now I see that at idle and at part throttle (in the garage) the BOV is open or opening and closing. Is this normal?? HB280ZT

cygnusx1, that is great but my BOV is not adjustable without changing springs. So does anyone have any Tial springs they are interested in parting with? I have the -11 psi spring which one should I try next! Engine Vacuum Reading / Color Use Spring Between: - 22 and -23 in/Hg Pink -12 Psi (-24 in/Hg ) - 18 and -21 in/Hg Un-painted -11 Psi (-22 in/Hg ) - 14 and -17 in/Hg White -9 Psi (-18 in/Hg ) - 10 and -13 in/Hg Black -7 Psi (-14 in/Hg ) HB280ZT

Ok where to start. I am using a Tial 50 mm BOV with the 19-21 inhg of vacuum spring in it. As for when it goes off under boost I have not gotten to that yet, that I know of. But when I pressurized my system listening for leaks it would start leaking at about 24 lbs of pressure. Also when I get off of the throttle I can here it release. So if this is not right what to do about it?? As for boost reference point I was using a point right after the turbo and have changed to the manifold to see what it does. Well it moved the flutter up in rpms to between 4000-5000 now. One item I am not really sure of yet is whether or not it is my waste gate opening early because of boost pressure and just bouncing or is it really surge! I really need to drive my car with someone else to watch the gauges and recording what happens because I only see bits of what really is happening as I drive. Will keep you all posted and keep the good information coming. Hopefully someday I get this fixed as it is driving me nuts! HB280ZT

I had it cleaned out awhile back but not lately. When I inspect it I see nothing that looks like it would cause this problem. Hopefully this morning I will get a chance to take the car for a run and try to log some of the numbers. I wish I had a way to flow test the intercooler here locally!! Will keep you all posted on what I find! HB280ZT

Hi All, Well after much investigation I come to find out I may have a problem with my intercooler, refer to old thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129000 Let me back track a bit here. The original problem was fluttering at between 3000 and 4000 rpms with partial throttle. I changed many things but could never get it to go away until I swapped out my intercooler for a straight tube and guess what no more flutter. So the next thing I did was to plumb in a second boost gauge and see what is happening. One is directly after the turbo and the other is in the manifold. Well did I get a surprise at the difference I am seeing as I drive around. At one point when it started to surge the turbo gauge was reading 20 psi and the manifold was at about 10 psi. Other times I saw TG 5 psi and MG of -10. So what to do? The intercooler is a R.S. Akimoto, core measurements are 20" X 8" X 3.5" with 2.75 inlets and outlets. It is a bar and plate design. So as soon as I can get someone to ride with me and write down numbers I will post some more information. HB280ZT

Nigel, Mine sounds just like your car. But mine does it when I am at between 3000 and 4000 rpms and not in boost. This is a part throttle problem that goes away when I really get on it. So the million dollar question is how to fix this so that I can stop messing up the turbo and start having fun?? HB280ZT

Ok guys I finally got around to working on this flutter issue again. I was in the process of putting in a smaller turbo when I decided to try one more thing before I have to rebuild part of my system to make the other turbo work. What I did was to take the intercooler out of the loop by replacing it with a straight peice of pipe. And guess what no more flutter!! So who can help me figure this one out now?? I am sorta at a loose other then at low boost/ high volume the system just can not push the air through the intercooler. And when I am really on it the pressure overcomes the restriction of the intercooler. I wish I had away to read the pressure drop across the intercooler but at this time I do not so? Lets see what you all come up with on this issue now. Thanks HB280ZT

I feel your pain when it comes to transmission work. I have replaced or worked on my tranny a few times. Well I decided to work smarter and found this on sale one day: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39178 It is worth its weigh in gold when it comes to tranny work or even the occasional rear-end replacement and every now and again they are on sale for like $45 or so. Enjoy! HB280ZT

When I installed my Tokico, illuminas I did not install the boots. Instead I put a zip tie on the strut shaft (pushed it all the way to the bottom and lowered the car) to show how much movement of the strut I see on a given road course/autocross event. Can show if you are running on the bump stops. Just my .02! HB280ZT

Try doing a search in the MegaSquirt thread on heat soak. I have been running the MS1 V3 for about 3 years now and when I restart the car after it has been running for awhile it starts and runs really bad until the fuel cools the fuel rail down again. This is caused by heat soak of the fuel rail and causes the car to run really lean for a few minutes, 19:1 or so. Hope this helps some. HB280ZT

I like the idea of using a wheel on the cam gear and mounting the sensor in the valve cover, I just need to see it to believe it can be done. Also I just found out the BHJ has a 2 groove dampener that they make for Rebello $378 new and they can mount a 60-2 wheel to the rear for clearance, $78. Now this sounds pretty good. I talked to Rebello today and they were going to send me a few pictures of this pulley on an L28 motor. will see about posting them when I get them. HB280ZT

I have been using Royal Purple motor oil for awhile now in my turbo Z now with out any problems so I decided to call them and ask about this subject and here is what they told me. API oil classification for zinc changed when they moved from SL to SM and the SM lost most of its zinc and other anti wear additives, something to do with zinc poisoning the system. So if you are using oil that has a SL or earlier classification you are not missing zinc in your oil. http://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil.html That being said he also informed me that all Royal Purple oils are SL rated and they even have an engine break in oil that has a higher level of anti wear additives, zinc included. http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html Just wanted to add this to the debate. HB280ZT

Ok guys and/or girls this is some great information. However does anyone have any new pictures and or insight into how to make splitters/belly pans for our Z cars? Inquiring minds want to know! HB280ZT