greenmonster80

Corzette, I have moved a Chevy to Japan and then my Hakosuka back to here. Both times the vehicle had to move under its own power and have no more than a 1/4 tank of gas. Justification was incase it needed to be moved around on the dock. Thought this was weird as both times the shipping companies asked me to load the vehicles in the containers after they completed their visual inspection on the outside condition of the car. I know how it feels to see great deals on quality cars from afar. Strangely enough I cannot wait to feel that pain again as long as I am back in Japan. But I have not moved a car overseas in a couple years so you might be able to find something that works out. Thought I would throw out what I knew from experience.

If a budget 3.0 motor is in your sights I would use a shaved P90 head. With a quality cam. 3.0 street car should be just fine with a set of 44 or 45 carbs. Standard 1.2 metal headgasket and a quality balancing job. I have a friend if Florida with a H/C L30 and nitros. Has to use only race gas and while his engine is cool I would hate to keep worrying where I could drive my car and if there is gas there. Just a thought.

I spent just under 10K putting my L31 together. Granted I could have cut costs. KEW timing and ITB'S were not necessary. Stock timing set and triple carbs would have knocked off little more than half. I agree that being in AUS a Rb30 would be the reccommended way to go but I do love my L6.

Nice pice Brian. Pretty reasonable price as well. GL on high bidding..

Noodle, Thanks for putting up pics. I am currently in Alaska but the wife is good about opening packages and verifying what comes in.

Well I got my turnbuckle keeper gizmo and it specifically says in the instructions that the turnbuckle is to be tightened by hand only. So it is not a keeper but a little cool add on piece. I will still keep it and use it. Doesn't look bad at all.

TimZ I have not heard of any issues with KEW timing set. I figured $100 is cheap insurance and looks cool.

There is no sending off for ordering this part. Simply buy it from the auction and wait for the mailman to arrive. Granted if you do not have a Japanese bank account, yahoo.jp account or someone who has a full understanding of the japanese language it can be much more difficult. Wife got me mine for fathers day.

bryan01, Prepare to do a lot of cutting. Took me 1 whole day to get the dash in place. For the center console widening the trans tunnel area and custom door panels. Alot of work so I decided to take a break from it and replace an inner fender instead. So much easier. But agreed a sharp looking interior.

Sharp looking car. How much?

It is a tension lock keeper. Only usefull with the Kameari Engine Works (KEW) timing chain setup. For the parnoid with little faith in the locking ability of the 4 lock washers in the standard setup....I already ordered mine...

Are your flairs fiberglass? Could you cut them down the line and re-glass them wider. This way would maintain the same fitment to the body and the same outside curve as those areas wouldn't be modified.

spacecase, cam has already been selected and loosely installed. Specs are listed in #51.

I thought about modifing the steering arm similar to FJ280z's application to allow for his FJ to work out. But I would like to keep everything as "bolt on" easy as possible. The car will eventually be my brother-in-law's once I get back to Japan.

Well my HKS cast manifold and To4e do not clear the steering arm and time has come to look for something differnt. I remember seeing an adapter that would allow for the bolt on application of rb26dett manifolds. An offset bolt pattern kind of deal. Heavy plate that would bolt into the stock Rb20/25 exaust side of the head and had a series of studs installed so that the Rb26dett manifolds could be bolted on. I do not remember if they were sold on ebay or Yahoo.jp. Either way I search both and came up empty. Does anybody have one that could be copied? Or know of where I can find one. Much thanks

Well I was suppose to unveil the car at the NOPI show in L.A the weekend of June 30th. That plan now is kaput. I have to go to Alaska for 2 weeks now. Anchorage to be exact. Well guess I can try to meet Stony and talk crazy Rb Zeto's and Okinawa. Really hate it when a well thought out and timed plan fails due to uncle sam's needs...

Man, I haven't been on the site for just a little while and feel like I missed out on a lot already. I drove both the 240z fairlady and the KGC10 before I decided which to get. Being tall (74") I fit both cars ok. However the KGC10 was easier to drive. Being here stateside makes my rebuild a little more problematic but oh well, I deal with it. Hands down I love my HAKOSUKA and can show the receipts to prove it. Worth every penny. However I am also working on a RB240Z series 1. Simply because I found a good deal and thought why not. Upgrades on either car are simple enough. Stateside you have an option to get one I would. Body panels on the 2drs are easy enough to get and any competant body shop can fix rust / replace panels. Not having one when you could of had one will haunt you. But I am biased so take it for what it is worth. I have both but love only one.......

Build is still on going. Motor is in place. My HKS manifold with the To4E does not fit so I will have to go down in size to clear the steering arm. I am waiting for my Rb25 bellhousing to show up so I can get going with the tranny. I have been focusing alot on the interior. Just about done with getting the 240sx dash install done. Also working on replacing the front inner fender on the passenger side. Thought about replacing the front frames with units from a 280z as they are thicker and possible stronger.

Thanks. Appreciate the sanity check.

I am going to be doing a 5 lug conversion next. I am thinking about buying a set of either GTS-T or GTR rims. Thought they would tie in nicely to the RB engine. Does anybody know if they fit, offset wise. I also plan on adding coilovers soon if that will make or break it.

The later style skyline lights as seen in corzette's car are pretty much a bolt in. Have to re-drill a couple holes if I remember but for the most part a bolt in. I also saved the picture of the Kenmary light option. Will be grabbing a set of those next time I am in Japan.

What prefecture, city are you going to. Kinda like saying, "Hey I am going to Texas and thinking of buying a truck." Have you been to Japan before? Is the language barrier going to be an issue?

When I installed my RB20 I bought a bunch of go fast goodies to make up for the lack of displacement. Found out my HKS cast exhaust manifold w/ a t04 doesn't clear. I am happy with the RB as I got it on a deal as well but be careful when spending money on parts to boost the RB. I will be taking my car back to Japan, so adding in the RB will make it easier on me parts wise when I get back. L series parts are more expensive there by far. Bottom line $300 bucks I would grab it.

Sweet car. Love the skyline tail lights, JDM bumpers and the early style front end. L20A motor will rev really well, but I ditched mine for the L28 as well. Nice find you definitely saved a keeper.

A technique we use in the Artillery community for a rusty or stuck component is to heat it up with a torch as BRAAP instructed, except we blast it with a fire extinguisher to really shock the crap out of it. Never had anything still stick after a couple blasts. Just make sure you do not use a halon fire extinguisher. But really, don't be skiddish, it is just a datsun. Hit it with a hammer, punch and easy out. Will work out fine as long as you are paying attention..