greenmonster80

I used a heater hose to re-circulate the heater hose hardlines on the engine. Eventually I want a RHD heater core from a 180sx to hook up. Driveshaft I can double check tomorrow.

Looks like your car is a 240z or early 260. Mine is a 70 240z and the brake lines that run along the firewall right behind the engine head gave me a hell of a time when I did my swap. I gusseted the front crossmember to keep the pan from hitting it. Moved the engine forward ever so slightly and that helped a bit. Figured since the engine weight is off the crossmember now no harm. Might help in your case for future maintenance.

Doors are brand new. Never mounted. There are 2 prices in the auction. Auction winning price pays tax. The buy it now price has tax included. The seller sells these at his store and usually in stock. If stock is out 4-5 days for new ones. Seems like he sells these as a middle man. Doors look finished but need to cut-out / drill mounting areas for hinges, handles and window frame. I have never tried to move something this size 3rd party. However blackcat and DHL use each other as sub contractors when crossing between Japan and the West. Shipping would be relatively easy going that route but would be far more expensive than the US post office on a military base in Japan.

Found you a set. http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h56326254

Since we have a bunch of cars with Rb and Sr swaps, how about a panel that would allow Skyline or silvia lights to bolt in. Carry the theme of the motor thru to the rear of the car. There is alot of aftermarket lens available as well.

I have not been on yahoo auctions for a couple weeks but sets used to go on there new for $600.

Are you going to re-use the 240sx guage cluster or go full aftermarket metering? I make a CF piece that fills in the 240sx space for mounting of whatever you want. Allows for a clean slate. I am working on fitting my new gauges and turn / high beam indicators now. Hopefully in a couple days it will be ready to toss back in.

For the centr console you could use either a line lock as SR240z did or find a JDM silvia center. The JDM has the cut out for the handle switched. Someone here on the boards pointed it out to me so I had to go find one. I did have to move the mount for the handle a bit forward.

With the dash at such a vertical angle I wonder how the center console matches to its original points. I have a bit of a gap in mine but was a compromise to lessen the gap between the dash and lower windshield area.

In my gallery pic I had not yet attached the panel and the top yet. I have since fixed the two together with black rivets. I epoxied door clips to the back of the panel and put a strip of adhesive back rubber around the edges to take out any vibrations or rattle. Real happy with the panels. Pete does real good work. I eventually want a set done for my skyline.

Since the Vildini mount is more of a cradle that rests on the frame, it is more adjustable. I was able to keep the stock shift hole in my build. Had to sit the motor up darn up against the firewall and opened the rear of the shifter hole slightly. I will post a pic this evening in my gallery to show.

I understand that this method of straight braided lines are not authorized by racing technical inspections. Could be wrong but I read something along these lines in the fuel delivery forum.

Alex, I got a question regarding fuel delivery. I am almost done with my swap into a 70 240z. I am pretty sure I will need to find the hard fuel lines from a 280z FI to allow enough volume. Am I correct? I got my pump and fuel cell complete. Plumbing is one of the last little projects to complete.

Tony D pointed out in another thread that the pedal box is angled different for RHD cars. Could you drive it with a LHD pedal box. Maybe , but the angle may be noticeable enough to annoy you. Just a thought.

Pic of the panels without the speakers.....in my gallery http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=18691&cat=500 I think they came out great and definitely worth the price.

I finally found a set of door windows that are perfect. Got my old glass out fairly easy. Spent 3 hrs cussing at the new glass and never got them in. There has to be a certain method to getting these in. I tried with the runners both all the way up so that they are off the track and with them all the way down. Just can't figure it out. Looking for pointers....

I was able to remove a set of 84 4 lig rotors and match up a set of 86 5 lug non turbo rear rotors. Exactly the same dimensions. So for the 5 lug..... a set of rear non turbo 300zx rotors work out fine.

Found it in the sticky's. 300zx 1984 non turbo. Of course none of the local parts tores carry them so I will have to try to junkyard it and have them cleaned up.

Ok, So I try to bolt everything together and there is a snag. While the 96 Q45 has the same outer dimensions it is different on the hat. The hat is way too tall for the caliper to bolt on. I will have to search around and find the correct rotor to use with MMS 240sx caliper bracket. I know the 99 Q45 has a shorter hat but the overall size is larger. 292mm instead of the 289 as listed on the MMS website. Anybody know which rotor to use?

I replaced all my bushings in the rear control arms in under an hour. Not that bad. I drilled a series of holes with a small drill bit arond the sleeve but as close to the walls of the C.A. Used a large brass punch, hammer and vise. Held the C.A. in the vise and wailed the brass against the center sleeve. Pulled most of the center out. Used a small knife to shave out most of the rubber and then hit them up with a coarse half round file. Really not that bad. Just be carefull not to over do it with the file. Some small wire attachtments for a drill will fit the inside diameter as well.