greenmonster80

Here is a more recent pic. Note the addition of plumbing and fuel injection wiring. The only change to this pic is I installed new plug wires cut to length for the coil install. I am waiting for some spacers from redline that will allow me to install the triple air filter assy's I have. Then install the air temp sensor and start it up. I just got done dropping oil into the motor and priming the pump. I will rmove the valve cover and make sure I have oil reaching the cam before cranking it up.

Gabe good hearing from you. Life has been supercharged but definitely not boring. I will have to get out tonight and take some more recent pics. I have to admit I slowed down abit (a few years ago) on the car when that "other Hako" was polluting the internet with his trash. So frustrating when trying to stop misinformation and no one listens. Not until it is too late anyways.

Believe me I would have liked for things to be different but the USMC can be demanding at current times as to were my work and focus needs to be. Of the last year alone I have been home for 2 months. This year I have bit of a break in my schedule. I do plan to make it to JCCS this year. Anyways I need to get back on point. I am expecting the filter assy's I ordered to be here on Tuesday and starting up this week.

Older pic but I thought I would add it here to show usage. I have been over on JNC mostly because more Hako owners there. But L6's are universally used in alot of cars. Here are some updates. All wiring is completed. All plumbing is completed. I am working on placement of the computer and wiring it in place. Looking for spark plug recommendations next. Firing this week for a dyno day.

The polishing of the ports needs to be finished and them throw a cam in it.

I got a complete head that is torn down and had started the maching process to open ports on it. I ended up buying another head so I pulled this one from the shop unfinished. $300 worth of work already started on it. Reputable shop did the work and I have the receipt. I would let it go for $100 as it is just sitting on the garage floor. I am in the San Diego area. Not sure where your at in SoCal.

I can no longe run open horns. Desperately need one of the two above mentioned options. PM me with what you got. Thanks

I used a Tomei 1.2mm gasket. Part number is 11044 R562M. Price was closer to $200. I bought direct from them.

Ended up being bolts. Holy cow simple solution.

Good luck. The valve covers sell around the $600 plus mark.

Ok, I would have never thought about the slave cylinder bolts. Mine appear to be much more than needed in the length area. I will swap in some sorter ones in a few minutes.

I upgraded my stock 225mm flywheel to the larger 240mm lightweight aluminium flywheel. I also installed a SPEC 280zx turbo clutck kit. I purchased the 280z 2+2 (280zx turbo) release bearing and sleeve. Got it all bolted back up and I am not able to spin the motor. Something is hitting. I made sure the flywheel bolts are all loctite and torque and pressure plate bolts are also tightened. Everything lines up and bolts in but something is not right. Any ideas? If I loosen the transmission from the block ever so slightly it spins. Tighten the bellhousing to block bolts and then a problem...I am out of ideas...Help

Looks great. Very impressive.

I have a 1971 240 sitting on 280Z subframes. I need rear coilovers for. I have sandblasted and repainted the struts, installed new tokico red springs and inserts. I would be willing to trade my rear struts towards your coilovers. Car is sitting too high for my taste. perfect chance for someone to grab some cash and still maintain your roller.

While everyone is allowed to have their own opinion. The current owner of the car put it back together in a proper way and is a real nice and operational KGC10.

If building on a budget use the 133mm 240sx rods. If you plan on taking full potential of the LD crank and having a real kickass L31 use the 138 rods. I got my 138mm rods from a L14 nissan engine. Old engine in a 4 cyl configuration. Rods can be purchased from either Aus or Jap. Be sure you get 2 extra to come out to a total of six. There is an early and later version. The later version has slightly heavier rods so matching up proper sets is important. I decided on the 138mm rods cause I had access to some and I have a copy of Kakimoto's engine build sheet that produced over 330ps from a L31 and copied it (I ditched the 50mm carbs and went with ITB's for easier tunning and drivability). The LD has a deeper strock so using a longer rod to take advantage of it made sense to me. I toped it of with escort (brand) pistons. Kakimoto offset bushed the pin bushing to gain 1.5mm more and used motorcycle pistons. Not my cup of tea since I found the pistons specifically built for the L14 rods. I got my LD crank, L14 rods and 89mm pistons all for around 1K. Not bad but that was years ago. I have not searched to see if L14 rods are even sold much any more. A longer rods will keep the piston straighter in the cylinder, meaning less drag on the walls during the rotation. As it was explained to me anyways. I am not a professional engine builder but I do listen to the ones I know.

Motorex is long gone. Owner was arrested on several federal charges a couple years ago. I helped a buddy recover 2 of his cars there thru lawyers. --Cocaine is a hell of a drug.-- I sold my BNR32 in order to buy my KGC10. Once you drive and own the car you understand what the big deal is. Note: There may be a kick ass car in South Africa. Until I am exposed to it I will never understand its importance.

Old thread but I saw the new question. 4.375 was a gearing used on various JDM cars (HR31/DR30). My KGC10 R180 3.54 had been replaced at sometime with the same unit. Definitely helped explain why it would take off like a rocket. They also can be found in the R200 LSD variant.

Great looking car. Love the wheels. 14"? I think a full set of older omori meters would be killer in the car. Very vintage with newer more comfortable seats. Keep up the good work and enjoy it.

I can vouch for Raven CF panels. Best CF product I have bought. Weave was real straight and fitment was spot on. I am debating between re-wrapping my KGC10 panels with the black/gray/white bride fabric or hitting up Pete for a set of CF. Time wil tell, but his panels are great.

The one on the above mentioned link is the only one I know of stateside. You are mostly likely going to have to bring one over. Maybe a GI overseas could hook you up or pay an importer such as monkey? Good luck

Not the best execution but a different take on the S30 front for the 180sx. Sale price is not bad though. http://db.datanext.co.jp/4DCGI/WEB_Car_View?CMC_A=10151015&GC_A=1&Price1=Non&Price2=9999&Year1=Non&Year2=9999&Mission=Non&Mil=Non&Syuufuku=Non&Town=Non&ST=G&CarCode=2573-120071220-006

When I mounted my dash I epoxied some L brakets to the underside of the dash. Then I removed (drilled spot welds) the old underdash brackets from the firewall. Relocated them to correspond with the L brackets. I also used the center console side attachments and welded nuts to the firewall for added rgidity and used some flat metal to make brackets that tie the ends of the dash to the area bellow the A pillar. Definitely recommend not doing any of this until you get the center console. Fix the dash in place and you have no adjustment for the center console to line up. The higher the dash is to the windshield the angle is way too steep for the center console to alighn. mount the dash too low so that the center console has some wiggle and the shifter alignment is way off. I couldn't get any of the pics in the thread to open so I do not know if you ran across any of this yet. RHD blue center may be difficult to come across. not a popular color.