loy

It's not hard to relearn. Anyways, if you are sure that everything is connected correctly then it might be time to start looking at components. Check that your distributor is sending a signal to ecu and what not. Here's an ecu pinout diagram. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/51518-look-what-i-found-83-280zxt-wiring-diagram-with-ecu-pinout/page__view__findpost__p__456420 Here's a multimeter how to http://mechatronics.mech.northwestern.edu/design_ref/tools/multimeter.html

So how about my unanswered questions? Do you have a multimeter? Also was this an entire swap and running when removed? Led will go off while cranking. What did you change to your fuel pump wiring? The only wire on that harness was blue/red, And it's the signal for the relay.

Yes. Should be figure N on the l28et swap guide/Plug 3 on the 82/83 supplement pic. Do you have a multimeter?

Did you ever check if your switched power stays alive during crank? Also was this an entire swap and running when removed? Also Do you have the white connector in this pic http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p185/phantomstarr/L28et%20into%20S30/DSC00161.jpg hooked up like so? -Green - Constant power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt constant) -Black with white strip - Switched power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt switched power) The end from the relay side needs to goto the switched power. Not the harness side.

A transmission jack is not needed but handy to have. It can be done without one.

These are the measurements. You can see hub differences here. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/images/additional/hubs_all.jpg

You will most likly need a different (longer) collar due to a shorter pp. Was said here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=157779&highlight=pressure+throwout+bearing.

Raceonusa.com/Carmotion has a carbon/fg cowl.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/gnose/tardaeron/grey%20ghost/MVC-835S.jpg http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/jccs2009-083-7661_datsun240Z_nissanFairladyZ_S30-Gnose.jpg http://www.370z.com/Portals/0/Magazine/Articles/Mari/Edmonds/IMG_1170.jpg

The rear bumper shocks are bolted on too. Might need to lower the gas tank to remove the passenger side one.

Here you are http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

Checked fuses?

No thats a capacitor, the thing i'm talking about is when you remove the external regulator and connect a few wires seen here http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm

Did you recently install an internally regulated alternator? If so, when you did the wiring did you include a diode? Without the diode you get the run on symptom.

Google and Wikipedia are your friends.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7BSA02/50-1565

Never seen it before, where in the area was it parked?

You can ship the rears separately, in three pieces in a smaller box. It should bring the weight of your oversized package(front bumper) down.

A bit longer that what you wanted but the price is right. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10527

Which car does it look like, the one I posted or Megatherion?

Installating the rear springs in the front will make your car look like this http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=574488&postcount=5

Installed the spring backwards? In most kits, the taller springs go in the back.

15 inch is shown in my signature with tokico struts and eibach springs

I've had a similar problem with my car, it turned out to be the way my afm was mounted. The connector on the afm should be about facing the driver side of fender wall. Hopefully it might help.

Here is a link to the relay mod. http://alteredz.com/Headlight_Relay_pg1.htm