TimZ

It's only "not useful" if you choose to ignore it. The relay rating of 40/30 just means that it _probably_ won't start on fire or melt down at those current levels. It says nothing about the amount of voltage drop you will see. Actually, that's not completely true - it does in fact say that you will have a large enough voltage drop that the resulting power dissipation (power dissipated = voltage drop X current flow) will be high enough to melt the relay at somewhere above 30A. If you require low voltage drop in addition to a current spec, you should get a relay that is rated for a MUCH greater current than you will be flowing through it. For instance if your pump will require 20A and you can't live with low voltage, get a relay rated for 80A or higher. 12.5V _minimum_ is ridiculously high for an automotive pump, BTW. All OEM stuff is required to work down to at most 10V. Are they really saying that the pump shouldn't be expected to prime and work at all at that voltage, or are they just saying that it won't meet it's flow specs?

Ahh okay that would kinda make sense. I have supported in the past, but not recently - I wonder how often you need to "re-up"? I "like" the notion of the like system - it would seem to be a good way to add support to someone's post without muddying the thread up with a bunch of "me too" answers. Not sure why you would want a quota on that, unless we are talking about limiting to one "like" per person per post in a thread (like FB)...

...so it looks like it works for others (thanks BlozUp!), but my "quota for positive comments" is always filled, so it never works for me...

Just got a notice that somebody "liked" one of my comments (yay!). I've never been able to use the "like" feature, always just got something to the effect that my "like" quota was filled or something. Did something change?

Have you checked to be certain that you aren't bottoming that washer? I use that same setup, and my washer had to be machined in order to clear. Or, even easier, you could just flip the washer over and not worry about it...

Have you checked the battery voltage while cranking in both conditions? Could be that you are borderline on operating voltage for the ECU during cranking and one plug removed takes less current (hence higher battery voltage), giving the ECU just enough to operate...

I wondered who was behind that... Tony is now supreme leader of Thailand!

Yep. The fitting at the back of the head and the fitting on the other side at the back of the block are, for all practical purposes, the same location. Use one or the other as the inlet to the heater core (looks like the one on the block would be more convenient given your heater core location), and return the water to the pump inlet at the front of the block.

FWIW I just used the non-side emitting LED strips, like these: http://www.amazon.com/Strip-light-Waterproof-Flexible-Light/dp/B005EHHLD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1400941154&sr=8-1&keywords=led+lights+strip+for+cars ...and mounted them to a piece of thin aluminum sheet that I had cut to fit the inside of each taillight opening. Here's how those came out - not quite as fancy as a couple of ideas in this thread, but I'm really happy with how they turned out: When the parking lights are on as they are in this pic, the upper and lower centers light up for brake and turn signals. When the parking lights are off, the whole upper and lower light up for brake and turn. I did something similar with the side marker lights and added turn signal capability to them, and of course I also did the backup lights. No more 35 year old dim lighting!

This should help... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115160-l6-cooling-system-diagrams/

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but hot glued to the outside of the headlight, or did you remove the glass and mount it inside? Also, do you know if the 140mm measurement is ID or OD?

Those look pretty cool - how did you mount the COB rings to the headlights? Also, what size are the COBs?

The eight sleeves are actually two sets of four with two different IDs to properly fit two different size bolts depending on what vehicle you use them in. You can see it in the pic, although apparently the photographer didn't and had the two sets mixed. I had the "four sleeve" solution too, and had to sleeve the sleeves to get the proper id for the Z's bolts (you could probably also source proper sleeves from McMaster). Also, get some of the silicone bushing grease for this - it didn't occur to me that I would need it for this part, and I was plagued with creaky feeling steering, especially at low speeds. Greasing and proper sized bushings cured this. It took me a while to figure out that it was the bushing - I thought my steering rack/tie rods were screwed up at first! Finally, it probably wouldn't hurt to put the unused bushings in the other 4 holes to increase the stiffness of the bushing...

Well said, Tony LOL - I wouldn't know what to do if it were any other way. Also, I keep hearing the "it's just so much cheaper" arguments and somehow I don't find them very convincing. In some ways, yes - you can't buy a "700hp stage 7" kit that you can just bolt on, and it _is_ hard to find builders that know what they are doing on the L-series and when you do they aren't cheap. I'm not sure you can just buy a "700hp kit" for the RB or an LS motor either for that matter, and if you can they are still pretty pricey - easily as much as that expensive L-series build everybody is afraid of. "But I could do it myself much cheaper!" Yes you can. On either choice. Just don't expect any choice to be cheap - you will be dissappointed. Also, a great deal of the expense in building 700hp Z by any means is the supporting systems that need to be put in place, regardless of the choice of engine - suspension, brakes, chassis stiffening and reinforcement, and fuel delivery to name just a few things that become much more crucial at this level or higher. If you aren't taking that into consideration you are kidding yourself. Some people just want to have a fast car, others enjoy the journey as much as the end result.

An I Spel reel gud.

I was wondering about that, too.

I made the request a couple of times in the thread, but I'm guessing nobody noticed it. This thread has some unique and valuable build advice for assembling the bottom end of the L-series. Due to it's name it's pretty hard to find with search terms even when you know it exists. Maybe sticky it and add "(valuable build tips herein)" to the title or something? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106082-power-drain-from-timing-chain

Yep - on this application (carbs jetted for gasoline), the methanol likely won't do you any good (aside from the anti-freeze part), and straight water will likely be more effective. Just because you usually see this done on turbo cars doesn't mean it would be "useless" for your application - if you are having issues with detonation due to high compression and aren't able to address it in other ways (like switching to aftermarket EFI, or a different cam for example), then this should still work pretty well. You may have to get differently calibrated activation sensors, but that's about it. Water injection should allow you to run proper ignition timing to more effectively take advantage of your compression, too. It's somewhat of a band-aid, in that if if fails or you run out of water you are likely to get detonation at an inopportune time. However it's a MUCH better solution than running an unknown mix of E85 without rejetting your carbs. I'm a big fan of E85, but this I would be wary of.

Do you have a preferred gear to select for the trans? I would imagine the lash might be different depending on what gear you select...

I would have expected to see broken ring lands from detonation that severe too. It almost looks like the piston melted around the ring groove in the second pic.

The exhaust fumes from the seals in the rear that both Xnke and I mentioned specifically happen when the windows are down. The air doesn't flow like you would think - as somebody already mentioned the Bernoulli effect from air passing over the window opening causes a vacuum in the cabin and exhaust is sucked into the cabin through the leaking taillight or hatch seals. This is a very well known issue.

Check the seals around the taillights, too - these are also well known to allow exhaust fumes to enter.

I just linked to it a couple of days ago - took me a while to find it again! Now that it's been bumped, could we make this a sticky? Some really valuable build advice in this thread, and it's really hard to find with search terms, even if you know the thread exists and are just trying to find it again.

Okay, now that you've scared off all those posers, you got my Tokicos?

I heard something about that somewhere...