TimZ

What Tony said. The head is not your issue (assuming the engine is really bone stock and not modified for high compression). The ECU is your issue. Get something tunable and you will be MUCH happier with the outcome.

I was guessing the 8 might be mm lift at the lobe which would be pretty close to this. Degree wheel and dial indicator are your best bet, PLUS you would learn something!

Well, except for the fact that at the track you would have likely been actually wearing a helmet and properly secured by a multi-point harness. On the street neither of these things are likely, and that roll bar is likely to do more harm than good.

Update to an old thread... The KA24 pump is the Melling M152 - same rotor as the M111, and the pressure relief appears to be set at 70psi. Just installed one of these, and it's working fine. I'm now getting ~18psi at 900 rpm idle and 170 degF 10W-30 oil...

STRAIGHT FACTS were in this thread - see post #18. Or do a search - it's only been covered about 1000 times. Also, the "topic at hand" was how to best go about plugging the system, so the irrelevant posts are the ones discussing whether to loop or not. Like this one.

OR, you could go to Courtesy Nissan and get the proper fasteners (bolts, nuts, washers) for your flange. They used to be able to source them, at least. Properly tightened, a bolted joint (like your driveshaft flange) should load the bolt in tension, not shear. If your bolts are getting loaded in shear then the joint is either loose or is going to be shortly. That said, the bolt in this case needs to be strong enough to survive the eventuality of a loose joint, at least for a while...

Yes, its a 78. The taillights have the standard bright trim around them. I got bored and converted them to LED last winter, so that's probably what isn't looking stock. Also a Fiat X1/9 aluminum bumper, which doesn't stick out as far...

The dash bulbs are type 57 - just search ebay for "LED 57 bulb" http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=led+57&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xled+57+bulb&_nkw=led+57+bulb&_sacat=0 These still come in different physical configurations = some have more LEDs but are longer - try to make sure that you have enough depth to accommodate the new bulb. Also, realize that the dimmer won't do much anymore.

I'm not a MegaSquirt expert - I use a TEC3r instead, so I'm making some assumptions about nomenclature here. BUT most injection systems have a setting for the minimum pulsewidth that you actually send to the injector - if your VE settings calculate less than this value, it uses the min pulsewidth value instead. On the TEC they call this the Minimum Injector On-Time. I'm going to venture a guess that the Injector Dead Time is your equivalent to this setting. If I'm wrong then I'm sure that somebody here can point you to the correct equivalent setting. If you have this setting programmed too low then you can send the injector a pulsewidth that is just too short and it stops functioning properly - there is a pulsewidth value below which the injector doesn't open at all, there is a value where it works reliably and then there is a range in between where it works, but unpredictably. When you are in this range you'll see weird things like AFR of 9 one moment and then 22 a few moments later when nothing else has really changed, just because the injectors are dribbling fuel out erratically. Sound familiar? You might just try upping this setting until you stop seeing the 9 to 22 type jumps. If your injectors are really big then you may find that the value that gives you stable readings might be a bit rich... edit: I am assuming that you are talking about behavior at idle or really low load, not under power where your pulsewidths should be sufficiently large to be out of this region.

Here's a news video from Bloomberg TV with some nice Z pics. It's towards the end of the clip so be patient... http://www.bloomberg.com/video/datsun-brand-is-back-on-the-roads-5n~g1WfRRbi05ft9buM7ug.html

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112867-modern-motorsports-ross-c/page-3

...and here's Tony on a date:

Thanks Joel - I made 'em myself!

A buddy of mine snapped this pic of my Z a couple of weeks ago - finally a pic of my car that I like!

That's a very cool project you've got going there Josh! Personally I would have put it under Engine Components→ Fuel Delivery Anyway, I'm thinking you should take a hard look at the airflow through your box - I haven't personally tried a setup like this but I think that you need to make sure that the airflow for the back cylinders isn't flowing between the injectors and the airhorns for the front cylinders. I think that for this to work the way you intend, the air needs to be flowing straight into each throat by the time it gets to the injector in order to ensure that the fuel goes where you intend for it to go. This means the airflow either has to be coming around the base plate or from the top and bottom, but not from the side of the airhorn, if that makes sense. You might be able to achieve this by putting a couple of blocking plates between the #2, #3 horns and the #4, #5 horns for starters... Also maybe take another look at MonZter's custom intake manifold thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/61549-turbo-intake-plenum/

This was why I recommended the $25 threaded pump inlet off ebay - just unscrew the hose barb and replace with an aluminum 1/2 npt plug and you are done. BAD Cobra_Tim BAD! This has been shown conclusively (with data even) to be the opposite of the best way to do it. You are just byassing the radiator and running hot water back to the pump inlet when you do this. (I am assuming that when you say "radiator outlet" you mean the port on the radiator where water comes out, which is the same as the pump inlet.)

Dang it! Outdone again...

Yes, it is. On that note, did you try just the hat with no hose connected to it? I'm wondering if the hose is the problem in the first place. It's that accordion crap that f's up the airflow, and in your second pic it looks like it does a pretty sharp bend after the air filter. You can get hose that is smooth on the inside, but you can't bend it as sharply (which is what you probably want anyway). Or you could just fashion a hard piece from mandrel bent aluminum tubing (use the largest radius you can get away with) and use smooth straight hose sections to connect it to the motor and the filter can probably just slip onto the end. Also, unless you have some kind of weird sensor scaling, 86kPa is more like 6 inHg of vacuum, which is still way too much.

30 second ebay search. Problem solved. http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-78-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-LOWER-WATER-INLET-HOUSING-/321148687894?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac5f41616&vxp=mtr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-hose-clamps/=nf1zrr Not very serviceable, but in some cases that's not that big a deal. The main question becomes whether you think you'll need to take that joint apart for any foreseeable service, or can you just treat the whole thing as one assembly during service.

I have a DeWalt Electric die grinder - I believe its this one: http://www.dewalt.com/tools/metalworking-grinders-die-grinders-dw887.aspx They make a heavy duty one that is rated at .65hp and 19000rpm if this one isn't big enough. It's pretty much my favorite tool in my toolbox.

If I'm reading this right, I feel like I should mention that it's not a good idea to use an impact wrench to torque the flywheel down. You need a real torque wrench for this. Also - here's the secret for torquing the flywheel down... Thread some longer than otherwise needed bolts (with the proper thread pitch of course) into two of the pressure plate bolt holes, and run a breaker bar between them to provide the counter torque.

I can't tell from the pic, but if your boost gauge is the same size as the fuel level gauge, I'd recommend swapping them. The stock gauge locations are much better used for things you might want to look at when you are actually going fast. You really don't want to take your eyes that far off the road to check to see if you are overboosting, for instance. Fuel level is much less important in this respect, and can go down out of the line of sight. You might even consider moving the three gauges around to put the most important one in the heat of battle nearest you - maybe boost, oil pressure, water temp from left to right, for instance...

Ah HA! That's why they recommend "For Racing Use Only" for those oils - I've never heard a straight answer on that until just now!