TimZ

Many 44PHH carbs (I don't if it's "many" or "most", but it's pretty common) come equipped with cooling bodies on the underside of the carb - they have two hose barbs and are meant to run the return fuel through in order to cool the carb body. Take look at part #85 in the exploded drawing below: ...do you have hose barbs like that on the underside of your carbs? ..

I didn't - the space station launched in two pieces and rendezvoused and docked together at Laythe, struts and all. I think that there is a mod for adding struts in space, or at least there was at one time.

Okay, so it's been a while, but here's my latest mission - SSTO Space Plane, Fly to orbit, rendezvous and refuel in orbit around Kerbin, then off to Laythe. Aerobraked into orbit at Laythe and dock with the waiting space station to refuel for a landing on Laythe,.. ...Craft holds 6 crew, and has a full compliment of science equipment in the cargo bay.

FWIW, I've been using a pair of oil traps like the pic below to remove oil from the pcv system for years, now; I plumb my pcv system pretty much like the stock setup was, with one of these inline between the crank breather in the block and intake vacuum with a pcv valve inline, and one between the valve cover breather and the turbine inlet. Here's a pic of one of them installed - it's the one between the block breather and intake vacuum, to the left of the radiator hose. This one has the pcv valve installed on the vertical outlet port, the other one just has the -10 fitting as in the first pic: You do need to provide a drain back to the oil pan for this - you can "Y" into the turbo oil drain if you have one, or provide a separate fitting to the pan.

I don't think I'd be terribly keen on routing under the carbs (i.e., next to the exhaust manifold). Unless you are planning to use the cooling ports on the underside of the carbs I wouldn't want to introduce additional heat into the return fuel unnecessarily. Where is your fuel pressure regulator going to go? If you are going to do a pass-through fuel routing on your rail, the regulator will need to be between the rail and the tank.

So my understanding was (TonyD would be a better reference for this) that the Senza Pari manifolds were a mix of modified stock manifold, CNC'ed and fabricated bits, and not a "fully CNC'ed" manifold. However it looks like your best info on the latest Senza Pari manifolds (and how to buy one) would be here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117103-senza-pari-manifold-group-buy-v-20/

The only fully-CNC intake manifold that I am aware of currently is the one that MonZter made, but it was really for his own use and I don't think he had any intention of selling copies. As far as I know, his priorities changed and that exquisite manifold is sitting unused in a closet somewhere, which continues to make the Angels weep to this very day.

I was thinking more along the lines of insanely over-optimistic. 4 hours? So do they have all of the necessary connectors, and the MS and all of the sensors are already mounted or you at least know exactly where they are all going to go? Did they quote you 4 hours of labor to do the job (i.e. it will cost $400), or did they say that they would charge $100/hour and that they thought it would "only take" 4 hours (i.e., it will cost $100 x how many hours it actually takes)?

Here's one from a ZX - it appears to be a bit bigger than the earlier ones. If you watch ebay it probably won't take long for an earlier one to show up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/79-83-DATSUN-280ZX-PCV-VALVE-HOSE-FITTING-TUBE-TO-BLOCK-VENT-NICE-OEM-PARTS-/221435102477?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338e8f850d&vxp=mtr

So far this was all stock. Not even MechJeb.

I thought you'd never ask... Here's my latest personnel transport. I used it to populate a base that was going to go to Eve. 2 crew plus 12 passengers Took off from KSC, achieved a 130km circular orbit, rendezvoused and docked with the Eve base craft, transferred crew and passengers, flew back to KSC and landed on runway using remote guidance. Yes I'm a nerd.

Yep! I'm officially addicted.

I think this all depends on the trajectory that you wish to achieve - as I recall the X15 accelerated to that speed and then followed a ballistic trajectory to the apogee altitude. Also, if you want to achieve orbit you'll need a LOT more speed than that! Earth's escape velocity is over 7km/s It's counter-intuitive, but I'm pretty sure that if you want to reach that altitude with the same trajectory and slower speed it will take a lot more fuel. I assume that you already have references like these, but here's a couple that might be helpful: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Escape_velocity http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sub-orbital_spaceflight Also, have you seen the Steam game called Kerbal Space Program? That's a cool project, btw.

In Michigan that seems to be a correct assessment.

Nope.

Yep - I usually keep driving until they put salt out, and then the Z only comes out if there is good weather and there has been enough rain to wash the salt off the roads. They are predicting snow flurries on Thursday - hopefully not enough to bring the salt trucks out...

Orrrr.... The RB flywheel bolts will also allow the use of a flexplate spacer for the same purpose if you can find one.

Totally agree on keeping the "RV" or higher AAA membership for the towing alone, but unless you have some special "stated value" insurance (which are dubious in their own ways), I doubt that your collision insurance would have done you much good - they likely would have totalled your Z at some ridiculously low value anyway and paid out almost nothing. I found this out the hard way with my 93 Taurus SHO - which was in really good condition. Some dude hit my rear bumper while I was backing out in the parking lot and scraped up the rear fascia, with no other real damage. Body shop estimated ~$1000 to repair, but insurance would have totalled the car at $700 (!). Did I mention that this car was in really good condition? Didn't matter. Given my $500 deductible they only would have paid out $200. I sourced a good condition rear fascia and fixed it myself for about $350 (including repainting but not accounting for my labor). After that I too cancelled my collision coverage and now pay less per year than the $200 they would have covered anyway. All that said - I'm really sorry to hear about your car.

The correct split is going to be the one that gives decent braking without locking the rears first. Just start with next to nothing for brake pressure at the rear, then work your way up until you start seeing the rears lock up at the same time or before the fronts on hard braking. Then back off a bit from there. Then recheck on wet pavement. You always want the fronts to lock first on a street car. A few years back I had been checking something on my rear brakes and had turned the prop valve all the way up and forgot to set it back. Just a few blocks from my house I came upon a red light and had to stop abruptly. I then had to sit through the rest of the light cycle with my car completely sideways in the lane. Not a little sideways - COMPLETELY 90 degrees sideways. Really embarrassing but lucky that nothing worse than that happened. Won't make that mistake again.

Agreed - the description sounds pretty much exactly like what happens when the tensioner comes loose and gets cocked. What did you use for a chock?

Yep - the competition O-ring HG is the same way.

If you are using a stock 70A alternator, that amount of voltage drop for a 22A draw sounds a bit high, but not inconceivable. Where are you measuring the voltage - at the battery posts or somewhere else? Also, how are the fans wired? Where do they get their power, what size wires, relays, etc.? Also, I'm not a MS expert, but it should have no issues whatsoever with running at 12.7V - pretty much any EFI has to be able to function properly down to 10V (often less) in order to be able to get through the cold startup phase. What exactly is it doing when the fans come on? Also, what is the proximity of your timing pickup to the fan motors?

Or from this site: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118044-led-tail-lights/ ...this one probably should have been stickied.

That's pretty slick - like the adjustable length feature!

Not sure what you are asking here - the power assist hardware is on the new steering column assembly. It all goes under the dash. Everything past the rag joint is stock in the engine bay.