TimZ

Lemme guess - I'll bet they didn't give your money back either.

The one that came up next was even more entertaining LOL...

I was just going to mention the same thing as Xnke. What do you mean by "the timing mark isn't showing up"? Is the mark still on the pulley but isn't there when you use the timing light? Is the timing light not firing? Is the paint just worn off of the pulley so it's hard to see? Bring your engine back around to TDC (Google "finding tdc with heads on") and locate the indentation where the mark should be and put a dot of white touch-up paint on it. If the timing mark isn't lining up with the 0 deg mark on the front cover, then your crank pulley is likely shot. If it does line up but is nowhere to be seen when the engine is running and you use the timing light then your timing is WAY off.

E85 requires sizing for fully 50% more fuel than gas, and you size for flywheel not at the wheels. Does 700 at the flywheel sound impossible to you?

^^^Please listen to John!!!^^^ Also, as far as the notion of "nobody has addressed this yet" (paraphrasing), have you looked in the FAQs? Jon Mortenson did a writeup on this back in 2006... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50499-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount-faq/

Twin 044s will be just enough, probably if you don't plan on running ethanol (E85 for instance). You'll need about 50% more than that for E85. I would recommend paying attention to the fuel tank's flow capability - while you _might_ be able to get enough flow out of the stock tank, the resulting restriction is very likely to cause cavitation at the pump inlets, especially during hot weather (you are in Kuwait, right?) So, to answer your question a few posts back, if you want something pretty big, the GTX42 would be a good choice. I'm using the 94mm inducer (GT4294R), with a 1.00AR T4 turbine housing, and I think that this is the smallest one available (!). This combo results in a pretty much 1:1 intake to exhaust manifold pressure ratio which is helpful for selecting a cam for high rpm flow. However, it does not make full boost until ~5000 to 5500rpm. I have fabbed (with help from James Thagard - do a search on "spoolie jobbie") a device that throttles one of the two scrolls in the exhaust turbine to effectively halve the AR at low rpm and make it spool faster, but that only makes max boost start ~500rpm earlier. On the bright side, it does start building boost at around 3000 rpm, but 28psi doesn't happen until ~5000. Here's a pretty good graph showing RPM, intake manifold pressure (MAP), and Exhaust manifold pressure (EBP): I'm using a 60mm HKS wastegate with an EVC IV boost controller, and that's been working for me. I don't think I'd want to run much smaller than that. I'm running a older HKS BOV that I don't think is available any more. I've also ported it and enlarged the valve size on it. Many of the BOVs currently availabe are undersized in an effort to make them louder - for performance it's a better idea to get one that will flow more and let the sound take care of itself. There is a thread that discusses this here.

Okay, let's step back for a moment here... The GT42 is a _really_ tight fit - you will have to custom fabricate an exhaust manifold to be able to get it to package (this is probably the same for the GT35 - I know TimO is using a custom manifold, and I'll let Tony confirm for jeffp's car). I don't think that there are any exhaust manifolds available currently that won't require modification for a turbo this big - it's not going to be a matter of just bolting something on. Also, I had to modify the compressor outlet to get it pointing in the right direction in the engine bay without adding undue restriction - here's a pick of the mockup: Next the GT42 is going to require a 4" exhaust, which is not easy to package, either. Assuming that you can actually use the airflow this turbo creates, the resulting power will almost certainly destroy the stock drivetrain. Do you have a plan for the transmission and clutch, for instance? Brakes/suspension/tires? Fuel delivery? This is going to require a LOT more fuel than a Walbro or the stock tank can deliver... It's entirely possible that you are already prepared for all the other stuff that need to be in place _before_ you start thinking about a GT42, but I can't tell from your posts so far. I just want to make sure that you understand what you are getting yourself into...

Here's a thread talking about results with my GT42R setup: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70653-e85-gt42r-dyno-results/page-3?do=findComment&comment=670377

FWIW, I found a 150mm COB halo that fit nicely _inside_ the headlight. I'm using the same headlight that Domzs is using, and carefully removed the glass cover and placed the halo inside, as the 150mm size was a pretty good fit for this: I used the grey "Right Stuff" adhesive to tack the halo in place and then seal the glass cover back up. Here's a couple more pics:

What Tony said. You'll be looking at that 4.0 liter Barra motor in the XR6, trying to figure out whether it will fit in a Z and wishing you could get one here in the states - here's the (non turbo) one that was in my Falcon rental in Australia last fall...

Take a look here - they are talking about turbo setups, but the theory still applies to NA... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/61549-turbo-intake-plenum/page-8

Agreed. I was suggesting this as a debugging step. The better solution would be to run sequential and double the PWs. I'm assuming that I haven't seen anything more on this because you don't have a cam postion sensor? Sorry my experience is with Electromotive stuff, but with the TEC3 if you set it up for sequential and no cam position sensor is present it will just guess and "get it wrong" half the time. With waste spark this turns out to be pretty much imperceptible, and you still get the benefit of increased PWs. Anybody know how MS reacts in this scenario?

I'll second this - just because your injectors still "work" at these pulsewidths doesn't mean that they should be expected to be repeatable. Changing to sequential should indeed double your pulsewidth and get you well into the linear region and if nothing else you will know if that was the issue or not. Also - doesn't MS have a "minimum injector on-time" setting that will allow you to set a "floor" that the injector PWs can't fall below? You could also experiment with that setting to see if low PWs are your issue.

If I'm not mistaken, the unit in Gary's pics above came from here: http://zpowersteering.com/ I just (finally) installed one of these in my Z as well, and it's a HUGE difference! My 4" downpipe meant that I had to pay a little more attention to fitment of the column and clearance of the steering shaft than most, but it's in and working great.

That's looking really great - nice job! Makes me wish I had known about the side-firing LED strips when I did mine.

In my experience it makes both run hotter. As six_shooter mentioned if you can't get more advance than 0 degrees, then your drive spindle is misaligned. Agree on cleaning the crap out of the system, though. Do you still have the old radiator laying around? If so, consider putting it back in during the cleaning/flushing process just to avoid pumping all the crap you're gonna set free during the flush through your shiny new radiator. Judging from your pic, you're already going to want to backflush the new one, but no need to make it worse if you don't have to. Also - fan pulley wobbling? Seriously? Get to the bottom of that. Disaster waiting to happen. So far I would say that ALL of the things suggested need to be addressed, and you will continue to have problems if you try to pick and choose hoping for the silver bullet.

Bump. Is there there a definitive answer for this? Is it really just for contributing members? If not it would be a nice feature in general to have working.

Is that the correct ignition timing for the L24? I thought the initial timing was more like 10-15 degrees. Retarded initial timing could cause the symptoms you describe...

No Bellagio there, either... Not even a Circus! Circus!

Yep. The Las Vegas Strip is another - same dry hot air, and seemingly perpetual bumper to bumper stop and go driving for worst case cooling airflow. That, and the amenities after a loooong day of driving around in the heat (it's less fun than it sounds) are less rustic... ever been to Furnace Creek? Gimme the Bellagio any day! Of course that only works for powertrain and hvac - type testing. Poor brakes guys still have to rough it.

I think you also get a "double whammy" effect since the humid air also has a greater heat capacity and can pull more heat from the radiator.

Perhaps a dumb question but is the stud cast into the pump housing, or can it be removed?

You guys have seen this already, right? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/23919-dash-repair-process-pictures.html

...so the pump has been in the car and running like a top for years, months, weeks? Does the tank's custom sump have an outlet fuel line barb like the stock tank, or is it an AN fitting? What size? What size is the hose from the tank to the pre-filter? How is the return line plumbed into the tank? Does it go into the custom sump. or somewhere else? The cavitation issue that I mentioned can be a process of the pump slowly destroying itself for a period of weeks or months. If it has been run in the past with any combination of the three issues I mentioned (inlet restriction, tank vacuum, hot fuel) that was bad enough to cavitate the pump, then the damage could already be done, and could have already been degraded when you bought the car. The symptoms start with maybe you are driving around for a few hours and after a while the pump starts sounding funny, then it's max pumping capability goes way down (dangerous because it works fine until you run boost and then you get low fuel pressure), or maybe it just craps out. Let it sit for a half hour or so and then it starts up again. Next day it seems fine, but the more often you take it out, the quicker those symptoms reappear, until at some point it just won't prime anymore. I'm trying to discern whether or not this is likely to be your problem. The fuel cooler on the return line could have been from an effort to address such a problem, btw. Can you give any details on this? What kind of cooler? How big? Where is it mounted? Do you have pictures?

This paragraph: ...is what Tony and I were responding to. Specifically the answer to your question in the last line was "yes". Tony spelled out the reasons for this, but left it to the student to draw the conclusion. However, my mentioning that the 12.5V minimum was a ridiculously high requirement was meant to get at what they really meant by that - it does not make sense that the pump would not be expected to prime reliably at 11.7V, which is what you indicated that you were told in the above quote. It does however, make some amount to sense that MagnaFuel would not guarantee meeting their specified flow at the lower voltages and/or that continuous use at lower voltages could cause reliability issues. This was why I expanded on the notion that if you require a low voltage drop across your relay to your pump, then you don't want to be operating anywhere near it's max current rating. This is NOT the same thing as putting in a larger fuse to keep it from blowing. In fact it's the exact opposite. Higher rated relays use larger contacts to get that rating, and will have a lower voltage drop at any specific current level than a lower rated relay. You should never, under any circumstances, use a relay as a fuse. BTW, a similar rule applies for fuses - ever wonder what the difference is between a "mini" and a larger "maxi" or "mega" fuse of the same rating? Voltage drop is lower for the physically larger fuses, especially when you near the fuse's current rating. All this said, I tend to agree that low voltage might not be your primary problem. As others noted, it could be due to a restriction in the fuel lines. I'm also suspicious of the feed line, though - can you give some more detail on how the fuel gets from the tank to the pump? Reason I'm asking is that these type of pumps are fairly sensitive to cavitation, which can happen if you have too restrictive a feed line and/or if you have a vacuum in the tank because it isn't properly vented, and/or if your fuel temperature gets too hot in the tank. Basically the pump will run fine for a while and progressively get worse until it can't make pressure any more.