TimZ

Many, if not most, of the new fuel systems are returnless. As I recall they modulate the pump to control the rail pressure. I believe that this is done to reduce evaporative emmisions (ULEV requirements are pretty tough), although is does probably have some slight weight advantages too.

Sorry for the late reply, but I think you meant this the other way around (?) The supply has to handle the entire flow of the pump, but the return only has to has to handle the difference between what the engine needs and what the pump is putting out. In other words the return will never need to flow more than the supply. In the absolute worst case they would flow the same.

Understood - I was more pointing out that in my case this was caused by the rocker coming off the lash pad far enough to allow the pad to move or rotate far enough to get the ears in a bad place. Throwing out ideas as to things that might case this to happen, assuming that z-ya didn't drop a valve seat. On the theory about the high shoulders on the retainers, if this were an issue you would be seeing pretty obvious witness marks on both the retainer and the underside of the rocker, which I haven't noticed in the pics so far.

I have... Probably not what you want to hear, but this happened to me when I dropped a valve seat. The seat held the valve open enough that the pad popped off the retainer and got munged up by the rocker. This is not to say the you necessarily dropped a valve seat, but perhaps something else allowed the rocker to come off the pad. Valve float maybe?

Are you sure the plugs aren't fouled? So far your description sounds more like fouled plugs, especially considering Tony's comments and the fact that starting fluid didn't help. Maybe try a fresh set of plugs before you start doing more complicated tests..

I like how the first response was a snipe saying that you don't get it, then offers no help whatsoever. I don't follow that forum so maybe it was just friendly banter Anyway, I do remember this issue from the mid 80's, and as I recall that problem was actually being caused by the injection of fuel on the back of the valve, or so they claimed. BMW then started recommending that you only use certain fuels that were of "high enough quality" and had detergent additives in them. As you noted, with DI this shouldn't happen since (I'm assuming) the fuel now gets injected after the valve. Blow-by or valve stem seals, maybe?

Please note that Tony is talking about SS HARD LINES here, not braided hose. As Tony is suggesting, use hard lines for running from the back to the front, and only use flexible lines to connect the hard lines to things that can move or vibrate with respect to the body or each other, like between the tanks (if you use a surge tank), tank to pump, pump to hard line, hard line to engine, etc. Basically just use the flexible stuff for the interconnects. You'll also want to use tube nuts and flare the ends so you use a proper bulkhead fitting for the interconnects. Hose sizes for the interconnects should be (minimum) -8 for the .500" hard line size, -6 for the .375" and -4 for the .250". Tube nut sizes should be the same, but I'm not familiar with the actual dimensions of that tubing, so the supplier should be able to get you the right sizes. Also, after having used stainless braided hose for years, I have become a much bigger fan of the nomex braided hose (Aeroquip Startlite, Earl's ProLite, etc). This stuff is much lighter, has plenty of pressure capacity, uses the same AN hose ends, won't destroy anything it touches, and won't start a fire if you drop a wrench across it and the starter terminal. Plus its much easier to work with and it won't prick your fingers while you're tryng to assemble it!

Care to clarify your question a bit? The only estimate that I see was in the change in suspension travel, which would imply an increase in downforce of somewhere between ~400 and 550 lbs, relative between the "tail" and "no tail" tests. Sounds like quite a bit, but doesn't sound like it's out of the realm of possibilities...

Third gear seems to give up the ghost at ~450 rwhp, at least that's where mine gave up... The gear on the right looks pretty bad until you realize that all of the teeth have sheared off on the one on the left. That made for a pretty interesting ride home...

I guess maybe I should read every single post more thoroughly, but I fail to see anyplace where Tony or Ray said anything particularly offensive, AND the knowledge they shared was very valuable. The most offensive posts I saw came from those that were "offended". WTF?

Finally -DATA!!! Thank you Tony and Jeff - can we consider this one put to bed now?

Now I understand - yes, the shifter is parallel, not canted like the Ford one in your pic. I didn't check to see if the Datsun shifter was exactly parallel, but It's definitely much closer than the Ford - I think I would have noticed that The top of the shifter housing is on a plane that is parallel to the top cover of the gearcase, and also the top flat on the front of the bellhousing:

If I'm reading your question correctly, the shifter is behind the transmission mount - here's a pic: As I recall, the shifter comes out within ~3/4" of where it is longitudinally on the non-T5 Datsun trans. However, it does come out significantly higher in the trans tunnel than the non T5 trans' shifter does. The result of this is that you can't rely an an angled-back shifter to ge to the stock shifter hole location. So the shifter still ends up farther forward than the stock shifter hole - I had to modify the center console a bit - here's how it came out, it still clears the fold-out front panel on th stereo, but not by much:

FWIW, I just bumped a related thread where I showed what I did with the Nissan T5 tailshaft housing in order to use the gForce gearset, maybe it will help a bit. The links to the pics were broken so I updated them when I bumped the thread... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/45954-t-5/ Also, here's a pic of the my finished gForce T5 trans with a Nissan bellhousing and tailshaft housing. This should also give you an idea as to how far back the Nissan tailshaft housing puts the shifter...

Bumping this since somebody was asking about the T5 tailshaft housing, and the pic links in this thread were out of date. I've updated the links in this post so the pics will work again.

Is this a street car or a track car? As far as safety features, this thread should help: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96403-make-a-240z-safer/page__hl__safety

I'm having trouble believing that this is a sensor/wheel problem. As I recall it's a 7-inch wheel on the BHJ which should be plenty big. I'm using this (BHJ with a 60 -2 wheel) setup with a TEC3r and the small (3/8" od) Electromotive pickup with no issues whatsoever out to 8000 RPM. Are you using their newer larger sensor maybe? It's supposed to be more durable, but I think it's physically larger too.

When I did my conversion, I drained the tank, dropped it and took it to a shop and had it cleaned and internally coated with an ethanol/methanol resistant coating (Red Kote was what they used). It's been holding up just fine for three years now, and I have not been doing anything special over the winters, other than filling the tank, adding some sta-bil and capping the vent line to keep moisture out of the tank. Even though I do think that the worries about E85 being corrosive are way overblown, you do want to take any brass or rubber components out of the fuel system, anodize the aluminum bits and use a compatible pump. I wouldn't worry about the aluminum head or manifold - they aren't in immersive enough contact to cause a problem. Here are a few links that might help... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/70653-e85-gt42r-dyno-results http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/71888-e85 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90227-added-6-more-injectors ...there are plenty more if you search on E85 Also, I've found this forum to be pretty helpful: http://e85forum.com/viewforum.php?f=1

Sorry its taken me a while to get back to this. Tony, that makes sense and I'll buy that it will probably work (IF YOU SAY SO ). Like I said, I haven't tried this, and its a bit counter-intuitive. I was thinking more of an L6 idle speed with this setup when I said 1800rpm. One other thing to consider if you are thinking about injecting at or above the horn is that while it should work fine for a naturally aspirated setup, you would want to be careful it doing this in a plenum for forced induction (or a cold air box for that matter). If you have an asymmetrical plenum like most of us, the air flowing past the front cylinders can have an effect on the fuel fuel delivery and wreak havok with your mixtures. I believe I saw an example of this on the extrudabody posts or their website, can't remember...

I guess I've never tried it, but it seems like this arrangement would work great when the throttle is open, but might have issues when sitting at a stoplight for an extended period of time with the injectors spraying fuel at closed throttle plates (something an F1 engine pretty much never has to do). Am I thinking of this wrong, or were you thinking more of a racing application where an 1800rpm idle from a slightly propped open throttle plate is no big deal?

LOL

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/29793-new-2011-racing-stripes-option.html The notion of the Datsun name "cheapening" the car is probably what set me off - especially considering that the point where they made the change to "Nissan" was the beginning of a very long slide to the point where Renault ended up taking them over...

Just went over and read the thread - what a bunch of ass-clowns Half the forum you posted to was filled with posts about carbon fiber door handles and features for the alarm. Arrgh. Most of those guys don't even know the heritage of their cars, let alone appreciate it. The fact that on top of this they are trying to be purists is especially galling. I kinda like the stripes, especially the Datsun part.